Although winter might look as a gray sad season in many cases, it is not so in Vilanova i la Geltrú, the town where I was born. There are numerous traditional events here which take place in winter.
Vilanova i la Geltrú was formally recognized as a town already in the year 1274. The town is located about 40km south of Barcelona on the coastline known as “Costa Daurada” (the golden coast). It has the third largest port in Catalonia and agriculture and maritime trade are a traditional source of income in the town, however, the main source of income today is an industry.
Vilanova i la Geltrú is especially known for its traditional and popular festivals who are among the richest and most varied in Catalonia. The people of Vilanova are well known for their good spirit and enthusiasm for their festivals. The festivals are not held just for fun, they also intensify the sense of belonging to the community which is very consolidated and keeps the Catalan traditions alive. In fact, Vilanova is the only city in Catalonia able to keep the celebrations of Carnival under the totalitarian regime of Franco. Today, I want to share two traditional winter events that I hope will make you feel like coming to visit.
Tradition is very important in Vilanova and most of the citizens have at least one full suit of the traditional clothes, even from a young age.
Sant Antoni Abat
The Feast of Sant Antoni Abat (Saint Anthony), also known as Tres Tombs, is a festival held every January 17. Sant Antoni Abat is the patron saint of the town and protector of animals. The festival starts with the will of honoring animals such as horses and donkeys for their important role in labor works. In our days all animals are honored. The festivity consists of three rounds of riding, racing, and blessings of the animals.
Animals are brought from all the surrounding area for the festival, offering unique photographic opportunities
In the time of the festival and before you can witness processions and correfocs (fire-runs). In the correfoc, groups of people from the town (or invited groups from other towns) dress up as devils and dance in the streets with pitchforks that have fireworks attached to them. Groups of drummers, trumpeters, and other musicians follow the dancing demons and escort them with rhythmic traditional music. Spectators are encouraged to take precautions and not get too close unless they come with protective gear.
All the correfoc performers: demons, musicians, and dancers, belong to local clubs, each with a unique attire. The demons have fire proof clothes, the clothes are decorated by the wearer with paints, making each suit a one of a kind
There are other traditional performances that usually take place at the weekends before and after San Antoni’s day. Many of them are done by members of the younger population of Vilanova.
Many of the members of the clubs start at a young age, don’t be surprised to see four-year-old demons in tiny suits (with proper adult supervision, of course). The younger members of the clubs usually perform at daytime, making it easier to supervise.
Musicians escort the performers with traditional music, many use traditional instruments. I recommend you to take a break from time to time between photos and listen to the music
Keep in mind: Depending on the country, laws about publishing photos of people in public spaces might change. In Spain, it is not allowed to publish photos without the permission of the model. There are some exceptions, such as for journalism or cultural reasons and only when the person is not the main focus of the photo. Street photography encounters here an ethical problem shared by all photographers as my colleague Leonardo Rigole explains in his article “Capturing life: A journey through street photography”.
As a photographer, you have the responsibility to get information about the laws regarding publication of people’s images in each country you visit. It is true, though, that sometimes the information is quite imprecise and that there are tons of people in the events taking photos with their phones and uploading directly to the social media without even thinking about it.
I personally decided not to upload photos that contain recognizable kids. Photos of details and closeups that don’t show the face can be a good alternative for the photos you want to share online. And about adults, I share their images when I consider them to have a cultural or informative aspect and always in a respectful way. However, if somebody would ask me to remove a photo, I would do so immediately.
The Castels (the t is not silent) are one of the best-known traditions of Catalonia and Vilanova has a respectable club of Castellers
Carnival
Carnival or “Carnaval” is a festival held in the seven days prior to Lent. The name carnival is associated with the word “carne” (from Latin, meat or flesh). In old times this week was the last week in which people could eat well until spring came; the people were already deep into winter and the food storages were starting to empty. It seems contradictory to have a feast in this period but this was in fact the last days to make use of meat and other rich foods because later they would go bad. Today the holiday is a week long celebration of dances, processions, masquerades, pranks and humorous miss conduct.
In time of Carnaval the streets and balconies are decorated for the celebrations
The apex of the celebration is at the weekend, on Friday the town’s folks go out to the streets in costumes to watch and take part in processions with music players, iconic characters, and a correfoc. The main event happens on Sunday. It is called Caramelada and it consists of a candy war. Thousands of couples organized in groups walk the streets in traditional clothes and bags with candies. While marching in the streets they wave the flag of their group and sing songs.
Each club (and there are many) has its own flag and attire. if you follow a group you will at some point have the chance to take impressive photos of them throwing candies at rival groups
Men are wearing a “Barretina”, the traditional catalan hat. They also carry a side bag full of candies! Women wear a “manton” (a type of shawl) that covers their shoulders and also flowers in their hair. Each group has its own colors.
The couples fling sweets at rival group members and “innocent by-standers”. The High event of the day are a series of jubilant candy wars that take place in the town’s main square.
The different groups enter with their flags into the square where the main candy battles take place.
Some girls and women use the traditional “manton” to cover themselves from the candies (and if they can, other people too)
Don’t miss the cleaning staff. They are a spectacle by themselves.
Tips: Protect your lenses with at least a UV filter. A lot of flying candies end up crashing in your lens in a strong way. The different groups are entering into the square following a schedule. There is a war every half an hour or so, starting usually around 12h. The first ones are the kids. If you want to make sure you have a nice spot in the square to take photos, go there quite early because it gets full pretty quick.
At the end of the Caramelada you will be able to see how the city ends full of candies!! Bring shoes that won’t fall easily apart because the soles will stick to the sugar of the candies!
I hope you like the winter celebrations happening in my town! I can assure you they make the winter much more colorful! If you decide to come and visit, if you want to go to Vilanova and have questions or if you want to tell about your own winter traditions please write a comment! Have a happy shooting!!
If you like to take photos of churches, Catalonia is the right place to visit. You can find churches of many styles: Gothic, Romanesque, Modernism… There is at least one church in each village. And in big cities like in Barcelona, you can find lots of them, including cathedrals. It is impossible to share in just one article all of them, but, as a local, I would like to share with you my favorite ones, including some that are not mentioned so much in touristic guides.
– Sagrada Familia (Barcelona)
The Sagrada Familia is one of the most famous churches in Barcelona and the world, and not without reason. Designed by the modernist architect Antoni Gaudi, the church is planned to have eighteen towers when completed. The tallest, that has not been built yet, will be 172.5 meters high.
Height and space play a major role in the construction of the Sagrada Familia. Gaudi envisioned a building that would inspire the worshipers and impact the skyline of the city, but not attempt to supersede god (the greatest architect according to Gaudi). Thus reaching 172.5 meters, the Sagrada Familia will be one of the tallest religious buildings in the world, but a few meters short of the nearby hill called Montjuic. The church also has three monumental facades, the oldest built by Gaudi himself and depicts the birth of Jesus. Each of the facades depicts crucial events in the life of Jesus. Another factor that plays a major role in the construction is light. In order to let light in and to lessen the load of the roof, skylights have been placed in between the columns and the walls of the apse are rich with colorful stained glass windows.
In order to enter the church these days, you will need to buy tickets (on-site or prepurchase online). The addmition fee is meant to help and finance the cunstruction of the church.
Tip: Buy your ticket online because it is much easier than getting it on the spot, and the waiting line for entering is shorter. You will need to decide at what time you want to go. I highly recommend you to go in the early hours to avoid the crowds. There is the option to access one of the towers. It is a bit more expensive, but totally worth it. The towers of the Nativity side are the ones that will grant you a closer view to Gaudi’s work. The other towers have also beautiful views, but I personally prefer this one.
– Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (Barcelona)
The gothic Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia was built from the 13th to the 15th century. It is known simply as “The Cathedral” of Barcelona and is dedicated to the saint of Barcelona. Saint Eulalia (209-February 303), was a thirteen year old christian who lived in Barcelona at the times of christian persecution by the Roman Empire. Eulalia went to the roman governor of Barcelona to request for the cessation of the persecutions. The governor, however, wanted her to renounce her christian belifes, and after her refusal he subjected her to thirteen turtures, crusifiction and decapitation. According to legend, Eulalia went up to heaven in the form of a dove which came out of her mouth after her execution.
A side view of the Cathedral, well known you should take a moment before going inside and appreciate the little details outside
The Cathedral is quite dark, so I recommend you to take your tripod because long exposure photography might help you to take nice photos inside.
The Cathedral in a view from the main entrance towards the windows above the altar, notice the difference between the areas lit by natural light and those lit by artificial light
A look to the ceiling at the point where the two waves meet, the dome is decorated with interesting stained-glass windows (I know you can’t really see them here, I leave it to you to take a photo of them)
As it is a well-known place, get ready to be surrounded by a lot of people. If you go early in the morning, it can be a bit emptier, but it is difficult to be alone. The Main Entrance (In Pla de la Seu Square) is the busiest one.
The Cathedral was built in a Catalunian gothic style, however, later on, the main entrance had been renovated in a neo-gothic style
It is good to know that there are two side entrances: Sant Ivo’s entrance (in Compte Street) and Santa Eulalia (in Bisbe Street, this one is also adapted to people with reduced mobility). The Santa Eulalia entrance is my favorite because it is less busy and takes you to the cloisters that are quite photogenic too. You can visit the Cathedral and its cloister for free almost all day. The only time you need to pay is from 13h to 17h30. The advantage of paying is that you will enjoy of an emptier Cathedral because almost everybody tries to go in when it is free. This is something to consider if you don’t want a lot of people in your photos. To visit the Cathedral you need to follow a dress code; your shoulders and knees must be covered (T-shirts and jerseys are fine, but no tank tops).
Tip: If you come to Barcelona, you should make the effort and visit both the Cathedral and the Sagrada Familia because the two are so different from each other. They will offer you a great contrast in your Barcelona photography collection.
– Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Barcelona)
The Church of The Sacred Heart of Jesus is located at the top of the Tibidabo Mountain near a small amusement park and a nature reserve. Visiting this Church is interesting not just for the Church itself, but also for the wonderful views of Barcelona.
Near the Church of The Sacred Heart, there is a small amusement park and a nature reserve. You can take some really interesting photos here
They have a nice website where you can have a look at some 360° photospheres that will help you to decide if you want to pay a visit or not. You can visit the temple and go up with an elevator. You should check the opening hours before coming because they change depending on the season.
The views from the church to the city and the surroundings is amazingIn this photo you can see the communication tower which is near the church, it is also a nice place to take landscape photos from, you can try and take a photo of the church of the sacred heart from thereIn churches and cathedrals, you will find a lot of chances to use architectonic elements to frame others. Experiment with it and have fun!
Tip: if you have time and you like taking photos of transportation, or if you want to get to the site in a unique way, I recommend you to take tourist transportation. You need to get to the Av. Tibidabo stop of the Ferrocarril. Once there take the Blue Tramway, that dates back to the 1901 and it will make you feel like you are in a different era.
The Blu Tram is the same as it was in its early days
Finally, you will need to take the Tibidabo Funicular Railway, that is also operating since 1901. This trip takes some time, but it gives you the chance to take some nice and not so common photos of public transportation. If you want to go down the Mountain faster, you can take the T2A bus, that will take you directly to Barcelona City Center.
– Other churches in Barcelona
There well-known churches in Barcelona, such as the Church of Santa Maria del Pi and Santa Maria del Mar.
Santa Maria del Pi is a Catlunian gothic church. Unlike other gothic styles, which are extravagant on the outside, the Catalunian gothic style is more modest, it has less spyres and towers, the buildings in this style seems more humble but massive, giving the feeling of down to earth sturdiness as if saying “I’m here to stay!”. This of course is only on the outside, on the inside the churches are rich with decortions, frescos, and stained glass windows. One of the most remarkable features in the church of Santa Maria del Pi is its beautiful rose window, one of the largest in Europe.
The facade and main entrance to the church of Santa Maria del Pi, you can see the distinct characteristics of the Catalunian Gothic style and the huge and intricate rosette window
Santa Maria del Mar got really famous because of a book called “The Cathedral of the Sea”, written by Ildefonso Falcones. When built, the church was not patroned by any wealthy man or organisation, the patrons of the church were in fact the residents of the poor neighborhoods near by. Many of the patrons of course could not afford to pay with money for the construction, so instead they paid with labor, actually taking part in the building of the church. It is also a Gothic church. If you take the guided tour, you will be able to access the rooftop and take some photos of the city. However, be patient because this church is usually full of both tourists and local visitors.
If you are in the mood to explore the less famous places, you should visit Marcús Chapel. This little Romanesque chapel is in fact one of the oldest in Barcelona. It was built in the 12th century on the outskirts of the old city. The city expanded since then, and now it is a bit hidden between buildings. It is located in the Street Carders, corner with Marcús Square.
In comparison with the previous churches Marcus Chapal is much smaller and “homey”. Still, don’t just pass by it, stop and pay a few moments to appriciate it
I discovered this graffity after a few minutes near the church, it was painted on one of its side walls
– Ermita de Bellvitge (L’Hospitalet de Llobregat)
This is a little Romanesque church located between the buildings of a workers neighborhood called Bellvitge (in the street Ermita de Bellvitge, to be exact). You can get there easily from Barcelona by Metro (Line 1, Feixa Llarga stop) The earliest documents that mention the church are from the 13th century. Due to repeating floods and even an incident of looting, the church needed to be renovated several times and even to be rebuilt.
– Church Santa Eulalia de Merida Hospitalet (L’Hospitalet de Llobregat)
In the same city as the Ermita de Bellvitge, you can visit a much newer Church. It is in the Ajuntament Street. The easiest way to get to this church is by Metro (Line 1, Avinguda Carrilet stop). This church was finished in 1947 and it has a classic and Romanesque revival style.
Tip: You can visit a nice street close to the church. It is the Xipreret street and it is one of the most famous streets in the city. It has 100 meters long. The street already existed in the Roman times and it is considered to be the origin of the actual city. The buildings you can see now in this street were built between the 13th and the 19th century.
– The Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll
Ripoll is a city close to the Pyrenees Mountains. In this beautiful town you will find the Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll, a Romanesque jewel and important place for catalan culture.
The main entrance of the monastery is a work of art, each of the carvings and sculptures have a symbolic meaning
If you go to the information desk next to the Monastery, they will offer you a tablet that contains tons of information about the History of the place. Some of the most photogenic spots are the cloister and the portal, that is full of figures representing religious scenes.
– The Sanctuary of the Virgin of Nuria
If you like nature photography too, you should visit the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Nuria. It is located in the Nuria vally which is 2000 meters above sea level and bordered between the peaks of the Pyrenees mountain. You can get there either by the Rack Railway or hiking from Queralbs or la Farga, that are the closest villages.
The hermitage of Saint Gil, located in the Vally of Nuria. Pay attention to the weather reports before going up there, at winter the days can be snowy and cold even when it is sunny
Tips: Once in Nuria, don’t forget visiting the Hermitage of Saint Gil. Saint Gil was a missionary monk, he went to the mountains to help the viligers keep true to their faith. he also offered religious services and fed the poor. This hermitage was built in the 11th century in the place where some shepherds found some of Saint Gil’s belongings. Important: if you go during the winter, check the weather first. It is quite cold and it can even snow.
I feel lucky about the fact of being from Barcelona (Catalonia). It is a beautiful city with a great atmosphere and as a photographer I am aware of how charming it is. But as a local I also know that there are other places in Catalonia that are also paradises for photographers. Today I want to introduce you to one of my favorite regions in Catalonia: la Garrotxa. Although I will focus just in the places I have recently visited, I want you to know that this region has much more to offer. My objective today is to make you curious about this photographer’s travel destination.
What la Garrotxa is?
La Garrotxa is a county in the northeast of Catalonia. In the north of the county you find the Pyrenees mountains. But today I am not going to talk about this (also beautiful) part of the county. Instead, I am focusing on the central/southern part, that it is known for its volcanos. Yes, I said volcanos! Over 40 inactive volcano and lava flows cover much of the center/south part of the county. With my description, you might imagine this region as a dark and rocky area. But the reality is far from it. The region is green and fertile. I like to go there because of its impressive natural landscapes and its beautiful towns and villages. You will be surprise for the diversity in architectural styles and you will be delighted by the local gastronomy. You won’t stop shooting.
Sant Esteve Church, in the city of Olot (capital of la Garrotxa)
How to get there and other useful information
You can check the website of La Garrotxa turism to check options about how to get there, where to eat or where to sleep. It can be really handy to rent a car for the freedom this will give you to move around the villages and to get to starting points of hiking trails. But you can also get there by bus (the company bus is called Teisa). If you are a hiker, you will have great times in this region because they make a lot of effort in developing their hiking trails. I would like to point out that tourism in la Garrotxa is mostly local (a lot of Catalans like to go there, as I do). The place keeps all its authenticity. On the other hand, you will find a lot of travel information and guides also in English.
What to photograph in la Garrotxa?
The list of things to photograph are endless: medieval villages, art noveau or modernism, forests, volcanos, regional gastronomy… all kind of photographers will find this region interesting because of its variety. In order to keep it short, I selected some photogenic spots in the region, mostly in the city of Olot and nearby. I hope I will manage to show you the beauty of la Garrotxa and the love I feel for it.
Old city of Olot
Olot is the capital of the county. It is located at 92km from Barcelona and in 2015 its population was 34000. The first reference to Olot is from the year 872 (Middle Age). The original medieval city was destroyed by earthquakes in the fifteenth century. The city was reconstructed. Further on, it also suffered diverse wars. But besides all the historical inconveniences, the city grew and developed industrially. Today we can enjoy its beautiful streets, churches and old shops. Walking around the old city is a pleasure. The streets are quite typical from Catalonian villages and the colorful buildings are perfect models for any urban photographer.
One of Olot’s main streets (Tomas de Lorenzana street)
The streets of Olot are charming
You will also be impressed by the Sant Esteve Church, from 1763.
The old city is full of old little stores where you can have a look (and buy!) local products. I find these old stores interesting because they kept their authenticity. These stores have the same look already like this 40 or even 50 years ago!
Perfume and beauty products store in Olot old city
Little store that sells local meat products (mainly pork)
If you like to take photos of local products, you must also pay a visit to Olot’s market.
You can find interesting products in Olot’s market
Photography tip: Locals are friendly and they wouldn’t mind that you take photos of their stores or the products they sell…if you ask them first! I saw that when I take photos without telling me, they give me strange looks. However, if you just ask them in catalan “Puc treure una foto?” that means “Can I take a photo?”, they will not just allow you to take the photo, they will also show you other interesting products or things to photograph! People in Olot are really hospitable.
Catalan Modernism in Olot
You might be familiar with the catalan modernism because of the works of Antoni Gaudi. Tha Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona is maybe the most well-known modernist icon. Modernism buildings usually have detailed decorations, a dominance of curved lines over straight ones and a dynamic use of forms. This cultural movement can be also enjoyed outside the outskirts of Barcelona. In Olot you can follow a route that will take you to several modernist buildings spread around the city center. Some examples are: Gaieta-Vila house, Casa Pujador or Casa Gassiot.
Gaieta-Vila House in Olot
Casa Gassiot, Olot
Casa Pujador
Photography tip: if you like to take photos of buildings or streets when there is nobody next to them, take advantage of the lunch break. You can walk around the city center almost alone between 14h and 17h because at that time the locals are at home having lunch and the stores are closed.
Volcano Montsacopa: Viewpoint in Olot
The Montsacopa Volcano is in Olot center. It is an interesting place to visit for several reasons. First of all, it is a good spot for nature photography without even leaving the city.
The Volcano Montsacopa is a place where you can take wonderful nature photographs without leaving the city (Olot)
Volcanic stone. The area is full of them.
Another reason is that once in the top the volcano provides you will an all-round views to the city and its natural surroundings.
Views of Olot from the top of the Volcano Montsacopa
If this was not enough for you, once you get to the top, you can also take photos from two watchtowers that were built during the Carline war (in the second half of the XIXth century).
One of the two watchtowers that were built during the Carline war on the top of Montsacopa Volcano
If you are more an architectural photographer, your desires will also be satisfied in this volcano: there is a church (Church of Sant Francesc) on the top.
Church of Sant Francesc on the top of Montsacopa volcano
You can also go down and step on the 120m diameter circular crater.
Mostsacopa volcano has a 120m diameter crater
La Moixina
La Moixina is a natural area not far from the old city of Olot that is a must for nature photographers. This area is characterized by its oak woods (it is the type of forest that once covered the whole Olor region) and the marshy woodland. The landscape of la Moixina is not a common one in the area, so it is worth it to visit it.
La Moixina marshy woodland
La Fageda d’en Jorda
La Fageda d’en Jorda is another must-to-go place for nature photographers. It is close to Olot, You can access by car, a local bus or even walking (1h30min walk). It is a magnificent beech forest (Fagus sylvatica) that stands on the lava flow from a nearby volcano (called Croscat).
La Fageda d’en Jorda is a beech forest (Fagus sylvatica)
This forest change a lot between the seasons. In winter, the trees lose all their leaves. In spring and summer the forest is green and in autumn it turns totally golden. At any time, this forest has a fairy tale mood that makes this place almost magic.
La Fageda d’en Jorda
Photography tip: The golden colors of autumn are pretty spectacular. Lots of people come to visit the forest, especially in the weekend. If you want to photograph a relatively empty forest in autumn, you will need to schedule your visit for week days and walk a bit inside the forest in order to avoid the crowds that stays close to the parking lots that are near la Fageda.
I hope you to be interested in La Garrotxa. Feel free to contact me with any question. I will be happy to tell you whatever I know. Have a happy shooting!!!
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