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Author: Julian

Graduated from college in 2002 with a degree in Art & Design, I started exploring my way in Graphic Design and Professional Post Production. Full-time freelancer since 2011.

How To Bring Your Sunset Images To Another Level In Photoshop

Hi all and hope you are having a nice morning, evening or night and are ready for a brand new tutorial.

So if it’s morning grab yourself a coffee as I have.

But maybe something else that won’t keep you up all night if it’s the other two.

Take a few minutes to find yourself a nice sunset image.

If you look at my image below there are loads of nice colors blending.

It’s busy with the colors!

Sunset in Photoshop

Look for an image such as this one above in terms of the variety of elements that we can work with.

If you have your own images then use them too.

With your own images, the best scenario would be if you had a few shots of the same image.

The reason being is that we are going to be combining multiples to create one image overall.

Then we’ll be building them off of each other to enhance our final image.

Because we will have multiple layers we will be able to enhance certain areas and darken others if we want.

Then in combination with using Opacity on our layers, we will be able to very finely tune our enhancements.

Ok so first things first, let’s duplicate 2 new layers leaving the original intact.

We will now have 3 layers.

As I’m not sure what the edits will actually be I want to have these backup layers for safety.

Go to ‘Layer – Duplicate Layer’ and repeat this twice.

Sunset in Photoshop

You will now see on the right-hand side that your two new layers are stacked above your original.

Also, take note that above that there is the Opacity option that I had mentioned.

When you reduce that your image becomes see through by percentage all the way down to totally invisible.

Sunset in Photoshop

Important side note:

If you have a few different images of the same thing taken at the same time they may be a little out.

To align them so they fit to go to your first image and click on it.

Then hold ‘Shift’ on your keyboard.

Click on the top layer to highlight them all together, this will automatically include middle layers.

Next, go to ‘Edit’

Then to Auto-Align Layers…

Photoshop Auto Align

A pop up will appear with various options.

If you want you can try a few out just to see what they do.

Ctrl Alt + Z will bring you back to the previous step after you try each one.

But for now, we are just dealing with ‘Auto’

Make sure that’s selected and hit OK.

Photoshop Auto Align

Your images will be aligned now.

Next, we are going to brighten up one of the images and then we are going to darken one of the other images.

Then we’ll blend them together and do some fun creative editing.

Click on your top layer.

We’ll be taking each new layer individually then grouping.

Sunset in Photoshop

What we are going to do now is add some adjustment layers to the layer.

The first of which will be the Vibrance layer.

Look at the top menu until you see ‘Layer’

Click on that on look down until you see ‘New Adjustment Layer’

In there you will find ‘Vibrance’ so click on that.

Sunset in Photoshop

You will now see the vibrance layer appear above your other layers.

Remember this…

So just a quick note of adjustment layers.

When you use the adjustments there is pretty much two types.

Destructive and Non-destructive.

Adjustment layers are Non-destructive and are a separate layer onto their own.

If you were to go to Image adjustments and edit from there…

Then the adjustments would become permanent to that layer and you would not be able to adjust in the future.

I advise always using Adjustment layers even you don’t really need to.

The reason being is because you never know when a client or yourself will go back to the file/need to edit it again.

It’s just really good practice to have this automatic in your workflow.

I have to admit, I do break the rule the odd time, but very very rarely.

And I also have to admit, that I have broken the rule and regretted it when I was asked to re-edit something.

Playing it safe is just a way to prevent you from wasting your time in the future.

Ok so click on your image layer again and make yourself another New Adjustment Layer.

This time we are going to choose Curves.

Sunset in Photoshop

You’ll see it appear but ignore it for a sec.

Sunset in Photoshop

Instead of double click on your vibrance layer, make sure to click on the half circle icon though and this is the actual icon for that layer.

You will see that pop up appear with two sliders.

Don’t worry about the bottom one.

Just shift the Vibrance slider all the way to the right so it’s +100.

Sunset in Photoshop

So you maybe were thinking why did I do vibrance first.

Well, the reason I did that is that I wanted to see the strength of the color before I lightened my image, which I’ll do now.

The way to lighten your image is to go to the curves layer this time and double click again on the icon.

Its histogram will appear again.

You’ll see the line running through it with the graph squares for measurement.

Click the line directly in the center of the histogram.

Pull it up as far as you can before the image gets blown out.

Blown out means, that the whites and brights will lose their detail.

So be careful not to blow your image out, or at least blow it out too much.

All little is acceptable.

Sunset in Photoshop

Now do as we did before in the tutorial, select your top image layer, and shift-click the top adjustment layer.

When you do this key in Ctrl + G so they will be grouped together.

Sunset in Photoshop

Cool, that’s the first set done!

Let’s move to the next which will be the dark’s and dulls I guess you could call them.

So click on your middle image.

Again we are going to create an adjustment layer.

This time we’ll choose ‘Hue/Saturation’

Sunset in Photoshop

This time we will adjust the layer as it pops up.

Click on the middle saturation slider and pull it about -30 to the left.

It will be hard to give a definite number so just grey your image out a little, don’t go too crazy.

We still want to have color in our image and if you slide saturation all the way left your image will become black and white.

So don’t ๐Ÿ™‚

Sunset in Photoshop

Next…

Click on your middle layer again and we’ll get ourselves a Levels Adjustment Layer.

Sunset in Photoshop

You’ll see the histogram in the middle again.

It has three little slider tabs at the bottom.

The one you want to be concerned about is the slider on the right that’s black.

This one controls the dark colors/shadows.

Just pull it towards the center a little bit.

Enough so it darkens down about 10-20% give or take.

Sunset in Photoshop

When that’s done group those layers as you did just before with the other layers.

We will have to create a mask for both of these groups now.

You do this by clicking on the group.

Then by going to ‘Layer – Layer Mask – Hide All’

Sunset in Photoshop

You will now see a little black thumbnail box linked on appearing on the right-hand side of your group.

Do the same with the other group.

Sunset in Photoshop

Ok, last stretch!

So those black boxes, if you click on it, you will now be able to use a brush tool with white to paint out areas.

If you make a mistake, switch to black to paint back in.

So grab your brush tool from the left tools menu.

Photoshop sunset fun

just under edit in the top menu, you will see the little brush icon with a number.

Click on that and make sure you have selected the first brush on that list.

That’s you soft brush which will give you soft edges and will blend well.

The one beside it is the hard edge brush just for your information.

Further along that menu under the word ‘window’ you will see ‘Opacity’

Change this to about 50%

In saying that I will go down as low as 25% if the image is being painted in too strong.

Photoshop sunset fun

Click on your light group.

Now using the plus and minus keys on your keyboard reduce the size of you brush all the way down to it fills the round sun.

Now start to rapidly click on your mouse and as you do this hit plus on your keyboard to increase the size of the brush.

Do this so the brightness is strong in the middle and weak around the edges.

Don’t fill your entire image, just about 80% of the height.

Photoshop sunset fun

Now switch to the dark group.

This time you will adjust the size of your brush to fill the darks.

So that will be the clouds and shadows etc.

This time I’ll stick to an opacity of 25% and build the area via multiple clicking and circular motions on my mouse.

Photoshop sunset fun

When you are done you can group all the groups together and click on the eye icon on and off beside it you can see the before and after.

Photoshop sunset fun

Enjoy and create some awesome images, you can go really deep doing this and you don’t have to be limited to just two layers…

Photoshop Sunset Next Level Adjustments

How To Remove Backgrounds Using Just The Brush Tool

Hello everyone and welcome back.

Today I’m going to be doing a quick background removal edits.

Now I will say, I gotta be honest, I do not recommend this for everything and I would very rarely use it.

I would say I would only use this if I was refining a tiny little bit.

But it can be used to do full background removals as well with specific scenarios.

So let’s take a look at what the type of scenario would be where I could use this technique successfully.

Check out the image below…

You can see that the edges of the image are not in focus!

This would be the scenario that this technique that you are about to learn would be very useful.

Background Removal Brush Tool

As you can see below I already have a prepared image.

So for scenario sake, we’ll just say that we were given the file to finish off or that we had already used the Pen Tool…

If you wish to learn more on the Pen Tool if need then sees this Link.

Not important for this tutorial, but let’s focus in on what is.

Note: I have the red background in place so it is easier for you to see.

The red background is not needed but if you want to add one to see better then no worries.

Background Removal Brush Tool

All you really need to do is go to Layer – Duplicate Layers

Background Removal Brush Tool

I’m already all set up and ready to rock.

So let’s get to it.

The first thing that I’m going to have to do is to create a mask.

So make sure that you have selected your top layer.

Look over to the right-hand side and click on the top layer.

That will be your duplicate layer.

Go to Layer -Layer Mask – Reveal All

Background Removal Brush Tool

Now let’s get our Brush Tool Ready.

It’s on the left-hand side toolbar.

You can also press (B) on your keyboard for the shortcut.

Now that the mask is ready to go look to the layers panel on the right.

See your layer, there is now a white box beside it, click on that, it’s the mask.

So basically, when you paint on your image now with black while having selected the white box thumb nail.

You will be painting out your image so whatever you paint on will be hidden.

When you change then to white on your brush, it will paint it back in.

You can flip between white and black by double-clicking on the box indicating the color at the bottom of your left side toolbar.

Background Removal Brush Tool

The first thing you do is to make sure you are using a soft brush.

So at the top left-hand side, you will see the menus ‘File – Edit – Image…’ etc.

Just below that, you will see the brush options.

Click on the drop-down box in the second one.

You’ll see a load of brush options, make sure you are on the first brush option.

Then you paint out the background around the image you want to cut out.

You don’t have to be perfect here but you do have to make a good job of it

The edge will be a little hard but that’s ok, this is the first step only.

Note that while you are painting out.

The plus and minus keys on your keyboard will increase/decrease the side of your brush.

So change according to detail and complexity.

Hold your space bar to click and move around your object as you edit.

And (Ctrl + plus/minus) on your keyboard will let you zoom in and out of your image.

Background Removal Brush Tool

Background Removal Brush Tool

Now it’s just a matter of dropping the opacity on your brush and refining your edge.

I tried 50% to start with but I wasn’t too happy.

Also, I felt the red background was too harsh so I changed it to white.

Background Removal Brush Tool

As you can see the white is easier on the eye.

So just a quick tip on this.

You can do this with the background you want in behind but I would advise using plain colors to start with.

I go between White, Red, Black to help me see my edge.

So the rest of my refining was done with a 25% opacity.

I didn’t click and drag the mouse, I made multiple fast clicks on my mouse to help build.

Also, I tried to make the edge follow the little shapes in the image.

Like the little hair bumps just to add a little bit of realism

Background Removal Brush Tool

Background Removal Brush Tool

Background Removal Brush Tool

When I was done I popped my background in and saved up.

Hope you enjoyed, practice and you will get better and better.

Background Removal Brush Tool

Background Removal Brush Tool

Learn Advanced Photoshop Blurring Techniques for Background Blurring

Hi all, welcome back to a cool new Photoshop tutorial.

Today I want to talk about Advanced Background Blurring In Photoshop.

There are many different ways to do this task and this is just one of those ways.

If it suits you then I hope you get a lot of use out of it to help make your images awesome!

Not that they aren’t already ๐Ÿ™‚

So the types of images that this best suit is Landscape images or images with several layers of depth.

This technique is great for travel photos when you’ve been out in the big wide world in the fresh air.

You could also apply it to street Photography as well if you have a lot of layers of building in the shot.

Let’s look at the image I’ve chosen to use today.

Choose one similar so that there is a person in the image as we will need it for the tutorial.

Advanced Blurring in Photoshop

In this Landscape image, you can see that I have several areas that I can work with.

The man standing on the foreground.

The hill just off to the left of the foreground.

The valley.

The mountains in the distance, and looking at them I could probably split them into two if I want to.

We shall see…

Ok, the first thing to do is to create a duplicate layer.

Layer – Duplicate Layer…

Advanced Blurring in Photoshop

Now we are going to have to select the subject, which will be the person in your image.

For this, you should be able to just use the Quick Selection Tool.

Note that at the top menu on the left-hand side you will see little brush icons.

In there you will see a plus and a minus, keep that in mind because you will need to flip between the two.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

So the first selection will be with the Plus brush so make sure that is selected.

Then click and drag within the subject until the selection covers the entire subject.

You don’t have to be super precise here, you just need to get the selection down.

Now, when you have this done then click on the minus brush and start to click on the little areas that are overlapping.

Make sure not to click and drag this time, just fine little clicks over those areas will be fine.

Then using the same technique you flip between the plus and minus carefully filling the selection out and refining.

Take note here that you can use the Plus and Minus keys on your keyboard to change the size of the tool.

That way you will be able to get into those little corners.

I’d suggest also to zoom in on your image as well.

You use the plus and minus keys again but hold down control.

If you need to move around without interrupting your workflow hold down the space bar.

The will enable you to click and drag around your image.

Then you just release when you want to go back to your edits

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

When you are done you should be getting at least a 95% accurate selection.

If not then you may want to use the Polygonal Tool, but I think the Quick Selection should do the trick, at least for this tutorial!

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

We also have an option available to us in ‘Refine Edge’ you will find that option at the very top in the menu bar, under ‘Help’.

There are no real settings I can give you here except to say…

Play around with the 4 Adjust Edge sliders and try your best to improve your image if needs be.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

If you want to take further extreme measures with your subject selection

Then you will have to deal with hair cropping unless you get very lucky.

If you wish then take a look at a few of these links below to for more advanced selections.

How To Create A Hair Brush The Practical Way In Photoshop

My Solution to Cropping Long Hair in Photoshop

My Solution to Cropping Short Hair in Photoshop

Ok so let’s move along.

Now that you have your selection you are going to copy and paste it.

So go to Edit – Copy.

Or Ctrl + C for the keyboard shortcut.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Then Edit – Paste

Ctrl + V

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

You will now have the selection in a brand new layer of its own on top of everything else.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

OK so now we are going to use the Lasso Tool for all the rest of the selections.

The Lasso is very quick to use, the only issue is that it is based on your hand movement with your mouse.

So it will only be as accurate as your hand is steady.

For this, it’s fine because we are going to be doing a lot of blends.

If you want/need perfect selections then I would go with the Polygonal or Pen Tool.

So grab your Lasso Tool.

And just above where you selected it in the menu you will see ‘Feather’ which you will need to change to 3px.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

We are now going to make a few selections back and forth to create the separate layers.

Then we’ll add a blur to each with a gradual increase to the blur.

So select the next part of your image that is the closest.

That’ll be the ground under my model’s feet.

Just draw around until you get at least an 80% accuracy on the shape.

With the Lasso Tool, you will find it gets a bit weird at the bottom because you can’t select outside of the image.

That’s ok, just trail the cursor along the edges.

Pull the mouse far enough so that it would be on the outside.

Once you have the shape fully drawn around the release and your selection will be made and the ants will be marching.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Next, go to ‘Edit’

It is important here that you choose ‘Copy Merged’

The reason for this is we will have a few layers and we do not want to have to keep going back to the original to get a copy.

This would be too time-consuming.

Copy just selects the layer you are on, but copy merged selects everything within your selection.

So Copy Merged then go to the same place and choose Paste.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

When you have your selection pasted you will see the new layer on the right-hand side in your layers panel.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Next, I’m going to cut out the hill on the left-hand side as it would be the next closest thing to us.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Then we just follow the same process of copy merged and paste.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

After that I’ll move on to the lowest part of the valley in the image, there is one in the center.

But there is also one on the right-hand side of the model.

Make sure to look out for areas like this because you can miss them easy enough.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Mountain next, you don’t have to be completely accurate.

In fact, when it comes to the parts that are further back I would say be very liberal with your selections.

And more liberal on the outside of the element toward the bottom/foreground of the image.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

The last two that I will cut out of this image of mine is the mountain and then the sky behind it.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

As you can see from the selection below I have been very generous to my selection.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Next, we will position all our layers correctly.

So make sure that the layers all descend.

That means the one closest to use will be at the very top of the stack, 1 to 8 (or how many layers you have)

You could have 100 for all I know ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Now we are going to want to blur each layer individually except the model.

He does not need to be touched.

So we start with the front Layer.

Then go to ‘Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur’

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Our first layer will get a blur of 0.5 and no more.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Then as we go further down the stack start to increase the number.

I would say to be safe you could go in increments of .25

I’ll give my images center layers a 1 for now.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

The back images I’ll go to 1.5.

I wouldn’t suggest going past 1.5, I think that would be a good enough blur for any image.

Though in saying that it does depend on the size of your image.

My photo was 1200px so base it on that.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Now if you want you can group the altogether and drop the opacity of the folder.

You do this by clicking on the first layer that you want to add to the group, then hold shift and click on the top.

Then ‘Ctrl + G’ in your keyboard groups them.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

Then you can drop the opacity to blend a little better.

Mine looked cool at 55%

If you want you can be super hardcore and just drop the opacity of each layer to see what it looks like.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

And when you are done you should have a cool looking image like mine below.

Hope you make some cool images too using this technique.

Photoshop Advanced Blurring

How to Turn a Photo into a Sketch Effect in Photoshop

Hi, there everyone and welcome to another exciting Photoshop tutorial.ย Today let’s look at how I can create a pencil sketch effect in Photoshop by using my images and some quick settings.ย It’s a cool effect and can be used for composites etc.ย Who knows what use you will find for it in the future.

For me, I found it useful for a friend that does tattoos.ย She was finding it hard to find the time to sketch out portraits with her workload.ย A few people were interviewed to see if they could draw an accurate portrait for the tattoo transfers.ย Unfortunately, she was unable to, so I said have you ever tried using a sketch effect in Photoshop.

She was like: “is that even possible” – I said hold my beer!

Ok so let’s find ourselves an image that we would like to use.ย Do you have one of your images that you would like to use?ย Then definitely use it.

If you can get work done while learning at the same time that would be perfect and would make me happy.

So here the image that I will be using today I got from Pixabay.

Pencil Sketch in Photoshop

Cool so let’s start by creating a Duplicate of the layer as this is always a good practice, but I will be needing it.

I definitely don’t want to be editing my original in case I run into a spot of trouble later.

To create your ‘Duplicate Layer’

Go to the top menu and there you will see ‘Layer’

Click on that and in there you will see second down ‘Duplicate Layer’

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Now look to the right-hand side to see it appear in your layers panel.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

If your Layers panel is not visible then go to the same menu at the top and look for ‘Window’

In there you’ll see the option to open it.

Alternatively, you can also key in on your keyboard F7 for the keyboard shortcut.

Next, we have to turn our image black and white.

An easy way to do this is to go to ‘Image’

Click into ‘Adjustments’

Then scan down towards the bottom until you see the word ‘Desaturate’

To saturate means to increase the strength of the colors so when you Desaturate you start to drain the colors out.

You can control this option in ‘Hue and Saturation’ so just a quick heads up on that.

For now, we just need to Desaturate.

Photoshop Effect

You’ll now have your top layer that is completely black and white.

Photoshop Effect

Now just like we did previous, let’s create another duplicate layer.

Only this time use the Desaturated image.

You will now see the 3rd layer in your layers panel.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Now make sure that you have clicked on the 3rd layer so it’s activated.

It should be already but just in case.

Now hold Ctrl and key in (I) on your keyboard.

You will now have a crazy inverted version of your image!

It will be the complete opposite of what you had.

Blacks will now be whites and white will turn to blacks.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Next up we are going to be using a little called ‘Blend Modes’

So what and where are blend modes…well if you don’t know already.

Basically without going into too much detail.

Blend modes are pretty much effects that can be applied to layers.

They can merge images together and they can be found in the layers panel.

Look in there and you will see the word ‘Normal’

When you click on this a drop down box will appear full of blend mode options.

scan down until you see the ‘Color Dodge’ option.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

This ‘Color Dodge’ option will blend the two black and white layers together and cancel each other out.

You will now have a white screen so don’t worry, nothing will have been deleted or anything like that.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Ok so now it’s time to create the actual effect.

So in Filter, there is already a gallery in there of preset effects.

These have various types of effects that could be used as pencil effects.

But I found that they are somewhat lacking over the years.

I found that there are better ways to recreate a few of them over the years.

Let’s go to ‘Filter’ on the top menu.

Now go to ‘Blur’ and then ‘Gaussian Blur’

Photoshop Sketch Effect

When the panel appears to use the slider to get the image to a point where you think it looks pretty good.

Now take note here that there is more to do after this action so you don’t have to get it ‘Perfectly’ looking exactly like a drawing.

So for me, the best setting was about 5 Pixels.

When you are happy with yours hit Ok and we’ll be ready to move to the next part.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Now lets at these two layers to a Group.

The way to do this is to first click on the bottom one, then hold shift and click on the top one.

Just a side note, if there were any other layers between the top and the bottom one this would select them all.

To select just individual multiples you hold Ctrl and then click on the ones you want.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

To Group the key in Ctrl + G.

You will now see that your layers are grouped inside a folder.

For more complex work I would advice labeling the folders but do it now just for exercise.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Also, create a duplicate as we did before of that folder…

Remember ‘Layer – Duplicate Layer’

Now we are going to repeat the process only this time we are going to add a little bit more Gaussian Blur to the image.

This will help fill the image out a little bit more.

Photoshop Effect Sketch

When you are happy and have clicked on Ok.

The next thing to do is to change the Blend Mode of the folder.

So not only can we do this with individual layers but we can also do it with folders.

In fact and layers in your layers panel at all can be changed in this fashion with the blend modes.

The Blend Mode that I’m going to choose this time is going to be ‘Darken’ as I feel it fills in my image a bit more.

But in saying that, have a scan your self and see what else the Blend Modes have to offer.

If something else in there looks better and more like a sketch then, by all means, use it.

Edits choices will tend to relevant to the image so it’s good to develop an eye for what works on your side.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Another little side option I want you to have a look at also is the ‘Opacity’ option.

When you look inside your Layers Panel you will see the word ‘Opacity’

Click on that and change the slider about to see what it does for your image.

Does it make it better?

Try it on both groups to see if it gives you any sort of improved result.

If not no worries it’s just to see…

Then repeat the process again only this time we are going to give our layer a big Gaussian blur this time.

This will fill in a lot of the blank areas.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

You may experience as I did the image becoming a little too strong, well drop the folders opacity as we talked about.

Make it a little bit more palatable.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

So those three steps should be enough for that part.

Now let’s take it a little further again.

Select all those folders.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Then make a Duplicate as we did previously.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Next, while they are still highlighted click the right button on the mouse.

When the options panel appears to click on ‘Merge Layers’

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Now go to Gaussian Blur and give it a slight blur or about 2 or 3.

The bigger your image the higher the number you will have to choose but I wouldn’t go over four.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Photoshop Sketch Effect

Now drop the layer’s opacity to 50%

Next, we are going to use High Pass.

High Pass is a way to use Blend Modes to sharpen.

By duplicating high pass layers combined with adjusting opacity you can get really fine detail into your sharpening.

You are also able to erase areas too if you want elements more forward to appear sharper.

Give your high pass a radius of around 25.

You may need to drop the layer’s opacity further.

When happy go to ‘Image’ and choose ‘Levels’

Bring all the sliders in towards the center so that everything is touching the edges of the histogram.

Then you can adjust the center slider a little if it’s too dark or light.

The last thing that we are going to do now is to add a little bit of grain.

I do this using ‘Noise’ in the filter option.

Give it enough grain so that it still looks natural, 20 was fine for me.

And we are now complete ๐Ÿ™‚

Hope you enjoyed.

Photoshop Sketch Effect

How To Create Your Own Keyboard Shortcuts In Photoshop

Hi everyone, today I wanted to share my knowledge on keyboard shortcuts with you.

When I create tutorials I often add in a mix of shortcuts with standard actions.ย The reason I do this is that I want to try to install the shortcuts in your brain without you having to really think about them.ย So, sort of a side project where you will learn through repetition somewhat subconsciously.

Shortcuts in Your Daily Workflow

Shortcuts can be a daunting task to remember.ย I remember when I first started out I was trying to learn as fast as I could so I could start trying to get Freelance Work.ย Looking at all the tutorials out there I could, it felt immense, to say the least when I saw how many shortcuts there was:ย I thought to be a professional I had to know them all.

Well, I can tell you that no, you don’t, you don’t even really need them minus probably a few.ย To this day I still hand on heart don’t know them all and I’d say I forget many of them on a regular basis.ย They can easily slip out of your head if it’s not common ones.

BUT!

If you are interested in them, then maybe this tutorial will help you…

So why don’t we learn how to create your own and in the process learn some as well on the side?ย Wouldn’t it be a lot easier to learn them if you had customized them for yourself?ย Well if you are interested which I assume you are because you are still here, then let’s get to it.

Taking a Look at the Exceptions…

Ok so grab yourself an image, doesn’t matter which, it’s just to have Photoshop open so we can work.

Learn Keyboard Shortcuts

So there are certain elements within Photoshop that don’t actually have a Shortcut.

If you check your Filter menu at the top you will see that none of these has Shortcuts.

You’ll see that they don’t have shortcuts because if you go to for example the Brush Tool.

Learn Keyboard Shortcuts

You can see that besides the name you will see the letter (B)

Now when you look into the filter and we go down to ‘sharpen’ as another example.ย You will see that there are no letters beside any of these at all.ย Go through them all for a minute just to see.

Learn Keyboard Shortcuts

The issue here is that I would use the Filter options a LOT!

So it would get very tiresome to constantly go back and forth scrolling down over and over using the Filters.

Let’s create one!

Your Own Shortcut – The Step by Step Process

Go to ‘Edit’ at the top of the menu.

And look all the way down until you see “Keyboard Shortcuts”

You will notice that this option has its own shortcut, so use it if you want just to see shortcuts in action.

It’s ‘Alt + Shift + Ctrl + K’

Learn Keyboard Shortcuts

Once in there you will see a submenu that you can click on.

There will be a drop box.

The titles in there represent the layout of your actual Photoshop worktop.

So the first is Application Menu, this represents the toolbar at the top.

It will be there by default but have a scan in there anyway.

Learn Shortcuts in Photoshop

Ok, so next below that you will see all the other options.

These, of course, represent all the other elements within that menu bar.

Take a scan down until you see Filter and click on it.

Learn Shortcuts in Photoshop

You will now see everything listed within filter it there and when you click on it a type box will appear.

This is where you type in your Keyboard Shortcut.

So pick a random one and try to type in the first letter of the option.

You will probably find that the letter has already been taken…

So what now?

Well, all you have to do now is just find another alternative.

Try Ctrl + the first letter to see what happens…

Learn Shortcuts in Photoshop

Did that work?

If so then click on Ok.

If not then as before just find another alternative.

Try Shift + Ctrl + the first letter, if this doesn’t work add Alt.

If this doesn’t work you may have to give up… ha-ha no just kidding.

No this is where the customization comes in.

You could essentially go through everything and change it up to your own liking.

For now, just find one you can apply a Keyboard Shortcut too and then hit Ok.

Learn Shortcuts in Photoshop

Right, so you should have that all set, now just key into04 your keyboard.

What you just used as your Keyboard Shortcut and you will see the options panel for that appear.

Learn Shortcuts in Photoshop

Learn How To Add Wallpaper To Walls In Photoshop

Welcome back to my new tutorial.

Hope you are looking forward to learning something cool today.

And I hope that it will be of use to you at some stage.

So let’s get to it as we have a lot to talk about and do!

Ok so check it out, this is the wallpaper that I will be using today.

I’m going to be adding it to “my” apartment here to tidy it up a little ha-ha.

Wallpaper Photoshop

I’d love to be able to just plop it on my image but there are a few things we need to do.

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

I used the key words for this simply ‘Textured Wallpaper’

Just using wallpaper should work also.

When you look for your own, look for repeated patterns such as mine above.

We want to be able to make this repeated and continue for ever…

So if the pattern is too complex or can’t be repeated don’t use it.

I’m going super simplified for this tutorial on my pattern.

But feel free to use at least a little more complex then mine if you want.

Ok, so when it comes to a lot of the wallpaper images out there.

You will notice that there is most likely vignetting on the edges.

So if you were to just straight up to join the images together they wouldn’t look right at all.

As you can see from the below image…

Wallpaper in Photoshop

We definitely do not want this!

So we are going to have to think a little differently.

And what we are going to do is to extract one of the patterns from the image to create our own.

Let’s grab a hold of the ‘Rectangular Marquee Tool’ form the left-hand side menu.

You can also press (M) on your keyboard as a shortcut, these can be tricky to remember though, so good to know both!

You now must find a sweet spot to start your selection.

What you are aiming for is to create a section that you could copy and join over and over without a seam.

Once you are happy with your section key in (Ctrl J) on your keyboard.

The section will now be on its own layer that you will see in the layers panel on the right-hand side.

Make sure you have clicked on that layer.

Then go to ‘Layer’ in the top menu.

You have to create a ‘Duplicate Layer’

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

But when the pop up appears to click on the drop-down box at the bottom titled ‘Document’

Make sure to choose ‘New’

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

Your selection will now be on a new document.

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

You may need to increase the size of your canvas.

So to do so choose your Crop Tool (C for the shortcut)

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

You can now click and drag to expand your canvas so you have plenty of room.

Adding Wallpaper in Photoshop

So let’s try it out, zoom in on your image using the magnifying glass or Ctrl Plus/Minus on your keyboard.

Click on your image and hold Alt.

While holding Alt you can now drag out a copy of the image.

Then try to place it overlapping the other image to form a repeated pattern and see how it looks.

You’ll see why shortly.

It doesn’t have to look absolutely perfect.

If you are not happy then go back to the drawing board and create another one.

So as you can see from my below example image mine has matched up pretty well.

Adding Wallpaper in Photos

If your section doesn’t work perfectly, so to speak, then no worries we can adjust it.

Go to ‘Layer-New Adjustment Layer-Curves’

Adding Wallpaper in Photos

Go over to your layer panel on the right and you will now see the Curves Layer.

Right click on the layer and choose ‘Create Clipping Mask’

Adding Wallpaper in Photos

You will now see that the Curves Layer is now attached to the layer below.

This means that any adjustments you do on Curves will only effect that layer and nothing else.

Adding Wallpaper in Photo

In mine I do have slight discoloration, it’s not really bad but let’s see if I can fix it up just a little bit more.

Adding Wallpaper in Photo

So the reason I said to overlap is about to be revealed now.

If after you try Curves and it still doesn’t work then you can try a mask.

Click on your middle layer again, the copy you made.

Go to ‘Layer – Layer Mask – Reveal All’

Wallpaper Photoshop

You’ll see the white box thumbnail attached to the right of that layer.

Click on the box, now you can paint using a brush tool directly on your image to hide the seam.

Choose your brush from the left-hand side.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Then go to the top left and under ‘Edit’ you’ll see the other tool bar.

Click on the second option to open up the brush options and choose the first.

Then on the same tool bar, you’ll see opacity, change that to 50%.

Now you can paint along the seem to hide it.

Note: you may have to adjust the position of your layer so it matches up.

Wallpaper Photoshop

You can always adjust curves again too if you want to see how it looks.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Now for the fun part, we have to now repeat this process over and over until we have filled a large enough block to use.

First click on the bottom layer, then hold shift and click on the top layer.

Key in Ctrl E to combine all the layers.

Click and place it at the top left-hand corner.

Then holding Alt-click and drag to create a new copy again and place it at the bottom of the first and repeat all the way down.

Again select all the layers and hit Ctrl E

Wallpaper Photoshop

Then click and drag a copy again, repeat the copy drag, masking process and adjusting into position.

When you are finished you will end up with something that looks like what I have below.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Great, we are looking pretty good!

Now go to ‘Select’ and ‘All’ (or as a shortcut Ctrl-A)

Wallpaper Photoshop

Then we’ll make a copy by going to Edit – Copy Merged.

Note it must be Copy Merged to copy all the layers at once.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Now we can open our room image and add the wallpaper to it.

By going to Edit – Paste

Wallpaper Photoshop

When that’s done go over to the wall paper layer just pasted.

Right click on it and choose ‘Convert to Smart Object’

Wallpaper Photoshop

Then by using Free Transform (Ctrl T)

You can click on the edges and change the size of the wallpaper to fit.

Holding Ctrl while doing this will let you move the edges around.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Wallpaper Photoshop

Wallpaper Photoshop

Once they are completely fitted, change all the wallpaper layers in the layers panel to 50% opacity so you can see through them.

The reason we are doing this is because we are going to trim the edges of and cut sections out.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Now add a layer mask to each layer.

Make sure that you choose to reveal all.

Wallpapering in Photoshop

Wallpapering in Photoshop

Now using the Polygonal Tool with a feather of 0.5 zooms in and start the process of trimming.

You can use Ctrl and the Plus and Minus keys on your keyboard if you have forgotten.

Holding Space bar will allow you to click and drag around…

Take each section at a time create your selection.

Then using black on your brush just like we did before start to paint out the selected areas.

This will probably take a little time to complete so don’t rush, you may have a lot of little complex areas to crop.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Then you just paint out the areas like the window below as stated.

Wallpaper Photoshop

Wallpaper Photoshop

Be sure to pay particular attention to the details in your images.

At the final bell when you have a completed image these little touches make all the difference.

So areas like mine were you see distress on the walls, they’re always good to crop out.

Mainly because they will not look good once you have the opacity lowered on your layers.

Wallpaper Photoshop

So repeat this process until you have your image completely finished.

It will take a little time but we enjoy it don’t we ๐Ÿ™‚

Wallpaper Photoshop

The last little adjustment I would make to my image would be to play with the layer opacity again.

Try to match the lighting of the wall as best as you can.

Wallpaper Photoshop

In the end, you should have an image similar to mine below.

Have fun with it ๐Ÿ™‚

Wallpaper Photoshop

How To Create A Painted Look For Your Images In Lightroom

Hi there y’all, hope you are having a great day/night.

Good to see you back and ready to learn some more cool Lightroom lessons.

Today let’s look at creating a painted look for your images in Lightroom.

You can even save this as a Preset if you wish.

I’ll be showing you how to create your own Lightroom Presets at the end of this tutorial.

Ok cool, so let’s get cracking.

First, let’s find ourselves a good landscape scene if you don’t have one from your own library.

I get all my images from free stock sites such as pixabay and pexels.

And here we go, I have my image.

Lightroom Painted Preset

So get set up and import your image.

If you don’t know how to do this take a quick look at this Lightroom Tutorial on the basics.

By now you should have your image up and ready to go.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Ok, now we are going to run through the first few things I generally do with every single image that I add to Lightroom.

It’s my basic editing workflow just to start off with.

Drop Highlights to -100

Increase Shadows to +100

Remember to use your judgment here.

If it doesn’t look good and starts to look a bit underexposed or a bit blown out pull the sliders back towards the middle a little.

Next up, is Whites and Blacks.

There is a trick here to guide you with these also which is really cool.

It also works with the Exposure slider if you need it or want to try it.

So hold Alt on your keyboard.

When you click on the Whites/Blacks sliders you will notice your screen turns to just one color.

Now what you do here is to pull it until you see pixels.

Then pull it back just until those pixels disappear completely or are barely present.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Once you have that all done let’s move down to Detail.

In there you will see the Luminance slider.

Slide this all the way to 100.

Then make sure that there is not any odd pixelation within your image, as this can happen.

To adjust for this now slide the detail slider below Luminance to compensate.

There will be no set number for this, just play with the slider back and forth.

But make sure to keep that painted look.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Next we’ll move to Split Toning.

You will notice in the options when you open it up there will be a little box about the sliders.

This will be both for Highlights and Shadows.

Double click into the box and depending on your image click on one of the defaults.

The defaults are those 5 color boxes at the top.

Since my image has a sunset/sunrise I’m going to click on the yellow to strengthen that.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Then I’m going to do the exact same with the shadows.

Only this time I’ll click on the blue as a nice contrast.

If you know your color theory then you’ll know that Yellow and Blue are complementary colors.

Meaning they go together.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Ok so now our image is done, though if you like you can play around with a few of the other settings just to see what happens.

Just as long as the luminance is not messed with you’re good.

Right so presets then!

You will see on the left there will be an option for them.

To the right of the title, you will see a plus sign.

Click on that.

You will now have the presets panel appear.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Now choose a suitable name.

I named mine ‘Painted Effect’

But if in future you create other effects that you like not related to what we have created here today you go through the same process.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Now all you have to do is click on ‘Create’ and you will see it in your Preset options to the left.

Most likely at the bottom of the list.

Which will be the folder ‘User Presets’

Lightroom Painted Preset

And here we have the final image.

It should be blurred to the point where it still looks real to a degree.

But it will have a far more painted looking effect applied.

Now with any image, you want you will be able to apply this preset to get the exact same effect.

Lightroom Painted Preset

Learn How To Create Realistic Skin Texture Effect In Photoshop

Hi all and welcome to my new Adobe Photoshop tutorial.

Today we’re going to be fixing a problem that a lot of retouchers will come across.

When you have to retouch skin a lot of times you will find that after all the blemish removal.

All the Gaussian blurring or whatever else has been done to the portrait…

You will find that you may have lost a good bit of the texture of the flesh.

Your image now looks overly airbrushed and plastic and not so real anymore.

Well all is not lost…

Because you can create flesh texture no bother and add it back in.

Wanna know how let’s find out!

Ok so grab your self a portrait image that looks a little over airbrushed.

This shouldn’t be too hard, they’re literally all over the net.

Use your own too if you want, in fact, I have a few of my old ones I can give you…

I have plenty of them haha.

If you don’t have any images that are overly airbrushed then easy.

Just find an image like this one below I’m going to use.

Skin Texture Photoshop

If you can’t find an image to work on.

Follow these simple steps to create an airbrushed type of disaster to work on.

You can zoom in on the face by using the Ctrl + and – on your keyboard.

Holding space bar and clicking and dragging will let you move around your image.

Remember these handy tips.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

Go to Layer – Duplicate Layer to create a copy of the first layer.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

You will see it appear on the right-hand side in the layers panel.

The next thing that you will want to do is to go up to Filter then look for Blur.

In there you’ll find good old Gaussian Blur, my best friend in the world.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

So a side note before we add a number to the radius.

My image was pretty big and pretty detailed, it’s around 4000 wide.

Therefore the best number was 2.

If in your image 2 is too much try 0.5 and work upwards until you get a blur.

Hit OK when you are done.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

Next, we are going to create a mask over the new layer.

Go to Layer again…

Look for Layer Mask and choose ‘Hide All’

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

You’ll see the thumbnail is now to the right-hand side of your layer.

To do this make sure you have clicked on the black box if it is not already selected.

Now look to the top left-hand side.

See the menu under File and Edit etc?

Click on the second drop down box and choose the first brush head.

Then slightly to the right, you’ll see ‘Opacity’

Change that to 50% so you’ll get a nice blend from your brush.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

Now using White on your brush, you’ll find the option on the middle left.

There are two little overlapping boxes.

Double click on the white one.

Now all you have to do is just paint over your image on the areas like the cheeks, chin, and forehead, etc.

Just leave the lips and eye.

For this tutorial, we’ll just work with the face so you don’t have to do the full image.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

Ok now let’s create a stamp.

A stamp is a layer combining all your other layers.

On your keyboard, hold… (Ctrl – Shift – Alt and then hit E)

You’ll now see your new layer.

Creating Flesh Texture Photoshop

With that out of the way, we are ready to get to the meat of the tutorial.

Let’s now create a selection over the face.

Grab your Rectangular Marquee Tool and click and drag it over the face.

You can use the keyboard shortcut (M).

Creating Skin Texture

Creating Skin Texture

Then create a new layer that should be at the top of the layer stacking order.

Creating Skin Texture

Now hit Shift + Delete on your keyboard to open up the fill options.

You want to hit the delete just above the return bottom.

Not the one at the very top as that one does another function and will not work.

Create Skin Texture Photoshop

Click on the drop-down box the is labeled ‘Use’

Choose 50% Gray and click OK.

Create Skin Texture Photoshop

Your selection will now look like my example image below.

Create Skin Texture Photoshop

The next step will be to add Noise to the Gray square.

You will find that in Filter – Noise – Add Noise.

Creating Skin Texture

A pop up will appear with the word ‘Amount’ roughly in the middle and a slider under it.

Don’t bother with that, instead, just type into the Amount box anywhere from 50-75%.

Get it similar to mind and you will be golden.

Creating Skin Texture

Creating Skin Texture

You’ll notice that the noise has a lot of colors mixed through it.

Well, what you’ll want to do here is to check the ‘Monochromatic’ box at the bottom.

Then click Ok when you are happy and we’ll move forward.

Creating Skin Texture

You can now Deselected the square (Keyboard shortcut Ctrl D)

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

When you have that done then go over to the layer on the right-hand side.

Right-click on it with your mouse.

In the pop up that appears on your screen look for ‘Convert to Smart Object’

Click that and your layer will now be able to be edited without it losing any ofitss detail or resolution.

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

We will now ad a Blend Mode to the layer.

Cast your eyes to the right hand side where the layers panel is.

Look for the word ‘Normal’ (if it’s a different word then you probably know about Blend Modes)

You want to click on the drop box.

If you are still stuck look for ‘Opacity’

It’s just to the left of that, right beside it.

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

Now we are going to create what is known as a Clipping Mask.

It will sound kinda complicated to start of with but once you get the hang of it you’ll see how straight forward it actually is.

So first click the eye onthe top layer which is the Noise Layer.

Next, create a new layer (Layer – New – Layer…) and click and drag it so it is under the smart object layer.

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

Then grab your brush again make sure it’s on the soft brush option and the opacity is set to 50%.

Now we are going to paint over the areas that are “over airbrushed”

Hold Alt and sample the color of the area and then proceed to paint over them.

You will have to keep sampling as you go along to match the colors.

If you make a mistake Ctrl Alt + Z will let you go back steps.

Also, keep in mind the opacity of the brush, you may have to drop it a lot lower to get a better blend if it’s too harsh.

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

Next, we will create our clipping mask.

Click the eye icon again to reveal the top layer.

Then right click on it and find the option ‘Create Clipping Mask’

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

When you do that you will see that the noise is now within the painted area.

Take not on this as you may use it for another project.

Consider the noise is now within the painted area ok…

So if you were to move the noise around it will still be in the painted area.

Hit Ctrl T and move the noise around to you see what happens.

Just wanted to throw that out there as an extra little bit of knowledge.

Create Skin Texture in Photoshop

Now we are going to soften down the noise a little so what I’m going to do is add a little bit of Gaussian Blur to the layer.

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

If you remember the size of my image (4000 pixels across) then you can judge the amount to use.

But I’d imagine anywhere from 0.5 to 0.75 will do the trick perfectly fine.

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

Now to add the texture.

So what we use to add the texture is a little thing called Emboss.

You can find it in Filter.

When you open filter look down towards the bottom and you’ll see Stylize and Emboss.

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

There will be no standard setting here, the only thing that you can do it to play around.

Make sure that ‘Preview’ is checked and you will be able to see what the effect does in real time on your actual image.

When it looks real then go with that.

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

If on second look you think you could do better, re-open.

You can re-open at any stage.

You do this by double clicking on ‘Emboss’ under your layer in the layers panel on the right.

That’s under the Smart Filters White Box Thumbnail.

And that’s it, hope you put this technique to good use ๐Ÿ™‚

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

Creating Skin Texture In Photoshop

How To Identify And Remove Distractive Elements In Photoshop

Hello, let’s get cracking with a brand new tutorial.

Today I got a simple tutorial for you.

But as simple as it is, I think it is very important when it comes to producing awesome final images.

What we are going to be looking at today is how to identify what could be considered to be a distraction.

Once you get an eye for these types of things you will start noticing them everywhere.

Your eye for quality images will become much more tuned in.

Now some people can argue with what is a distraction and what is not.

I put it down to this…

What I feel myself noticing that doesn’t add to the overall image.

So let’s take a look at an image where I think an element within the image is a distraction.

Photoshop Tutorial Removing Distractions

Ok so looking at this image what do you think is the main focus of the image?

And now, what do you think is an element within the image?

So for me, there is actually 2 elements that I think take away from the image.

Number 1 is the tree.

My reasons for this is because I feel the mountain is the main focus.

The grass and flowers lead your eye from the bottom right up to the mountain.

Number 2 is the cloud on the right-hand side.

My reasons for these are as I said, I would like to have this image remain simple, grass to the mountain for a feeling of epicness.

I feel my eye is drawn away from that with the tree first, then the cloud.

The thing is, if this is your aim (as a photographer), then it’s all good, I’m not saying the tree or the cloud is wrong.

You have to remember that this is subjective to how I want it with my current thoughts and feelings.

Photoshop Tutorial Removing Distractions

So let’s deal with the tree first.

Press Z on your keyboard to open up the Zoom Tool.

Click over the tree until you get up close.

Holding the space bar will enable you to click and drag the tree into position.

Photoshop Tutorial Removing Distractions

With this type of element, it is within the mountain, so there’s no sharp lines or edges to deal with.

This is simply removed by selecting the Spot Healing Brush.

But you have to make sure you have ‘Content-Aware’ checked off.

You’ll find that option at the top left-hand side.

Just have a look along and you’ll see it and then click on the circle beside it to activate that option.

Photoshop Tutorial Removing Distractions

Now all you got to do is to just click and paint over the top of the image, but before you do that create a new layer!

Photoshop Retouching

Then click and paint, you will have to go over a few times to get a satisfactory result most of the time.

Photoshop Retouching

But the results are generally pretty good!

Photoshop Retouching

Next let’s take a look at this cloud on the right.

Open up your Polygonal Tool.

Photoshop Retouching

Again create a new layer.

Photoshop Retouching

Next, you use the tool to click around the are that you want to remove.

When it comes to the likes of the mountain you can zoom in with the plus and minus keys on your keyboard while holding Alt.

Then with small clicks draw around the mountain edge so it will look real.

Photoshop Retouching

Now select your brush tool, let’s paint over the area but you have to do a few little things first.

First, hold Alt and you will see a little eye dropper appear.

Then click on an area really close by and paint over the selected area with an opacity of 50% for your brush. (you’ll see that option just below ‘Window’ in the top menu)

Then you can keep clicking to build it up.

Photoshop Retouching

It won’t look so real so we have to add some grain.

You do that by adding noise.

You’ll find that in ‘Filter – Noise – Add Noise’

Photoshop Retouching

When the panel appears select 1 on the amount and click Ok.

Photoshop Retouching

There will be areas you may have missed to just redraw a selection.

Photoshop Retouching

Now using your Clone Tool.

Photoshop Retouching

Hold Alt again similar to the Brush Tool, but this time you are sampling an area to paint with.

That will cover the area up nicely, and then you will be done and it would have only taken a little bit of time.

So the main point of this tutorial was not to teach you the Spot Healing Brush or Clone Tool, there’s plenty out there on those.

But it is to look at an image objectively and try to identify what is a distraction.

Now you know you’ll start seeing them everywhere, good! you’re starting to think on a different level now.

Enjoy your new skill ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop Retouching

Photoshop Retouching

Photoshop Retouching

How To Become An Organizational Pro In Lightroom

Hi and welcome to a new Tutorial.

Today we are going to be talking about the very awesome and exciting world of organization in Adobe Lightroom.

Or just in general, but I’m going to use Lightroom as my main organizer as it is perfect for this.

I’ll be giving you my step by step guide to this subject.

I’m sure you are excited ha-ha.

But as no very exciting a subject it is a very important one to learn and get out of the way.

It is very important to be highly organized if you ever want to do Photography professionally.

If you have been doing Photography for a while, or even on day one…

You will see how many images you can take in one day.

If you do not organize these properly it will be an absolute nightmare to find images.

Especially if you are working professionally and a client asks to see all the headshots you took at a wedding…

You could have taken 10000 images and only 400 of those were headshots.

Now imagine trying to find those fast.

And to make matters worse imagine they had all been taken at different times as they most likely were.

Oh dear, we are in trouble…

Or not!

Because we are going to learn how to sort these from the beginning like the good little Lightroom Pros that we are!

Ok, let’s import our images.

Open up Lightroom.

We are Lightroom Pros

At the top right look for the word ‘Library’ and click on it.

On the bottom left you will see the tab titled as ‘Import’

Click on that and a pop up will appear.

Lightroom Professional

When the pop-up section appears to click on ‘Select a Source’

As you do this another pop up will appear and in there you are going to be looking for ‘Other Source’

Click on that.

Lightroom Professional

Search for your Folder containing all your image and click on that.

You just treat the folder search like you would normally on your laptop.

There is no special another way.

So click it.

Then click at the bottom where it says ‘Select Folder’

I just want to note here that it would be wise to keep all your images in a specific folder on your hard drive.

Mine is just Desktop for the tutorial example.

But usually, I’d have it safe in my Documents Folder or something along those lines.

Lightroom Professional

It will open up what images you have as thumbnails.

Now you look to the bottom right-hand corner.

Click the ‘Import’ tab that you see there.

Lightroom Professional

Your images will now be in the Library portion of your Lightroom.

Lightroom Professional

So my images can be split into three categories, I could go further, a lot further but for this, we’ll keep it simple.

On the left-hand side, you will see the tab ‘Folders’

When you click this you will see your folder added.

Right click on your folder as we are going to add some subfolders to it via Lightroom.

When you do you’ll see the pop up that has ‘Create Folder Inside *whatever your title is*’

Select that.

Lightroom Organization

Then it will give you a ‘Create Folder Tab’

Name it what you think you should name it.

For me, with my images, I created three folders and in turn, I named my Folders like so…

Buildings

Mountains

Street Scenes Night

Lightroom Organization

Now it’s time to select your individual images.

You do this by holding Ctrl on your keyboard when you click the individual images you want for the specific folder.

Note: if there is a whole row of the same type of image you can hold shift.

then you click the first and the last and everything in between will also be selected.

Lightroom Professional Organization

Once you have all the images selected that you want for that folder.

Click the first image again and drag them over to the left-hand side.

Hover over the specific folder they are going in and release your mouse button.

They will now be in that folder!

You will most likely get a pop up prompting you and asking you to click on move.

If you want to check the box ‘Don’t show again’ and then hit ‘Move’

You’ll see this prompt again.

Lightroom Professional Organization

Repeat the same action with all the other photos until you are fully organized.

Lightroom Professional Organization

Then you can click on the individual folders to see the specific images relevant to the title.

Lightroom Professional Organization

Now you’ll be an organizational master in Lightroom ๐Ÿ™‚

How To Improve Eyebrows In Portraits Using Photoshop

Hello there.

Today I’m going to be working on some eyebrows and you are invited to join along with my workflow.

So let’s talk a little on the background of this tutorial.

Peoples eyebrows are all very different and unique and sometimes in a photo shoot the model my not be prepared etc.

Lighting can also be a huge factor when it comes to the final result.

Especially when people have very fair eyebrows.

Therefore the finished image may need some touching up and eyebrows added depending on the product.

It could be some sort of before and after.

This is where this tutorial comes in.

Let’s look at my image.

Photoshopping Eyebrows

Now when I look at this Image I’m immediately thinking there is not enough definition in the eyebrows.

They are a bit blurred for what I want to achieve.

Because of shifting styles, strong eyebrows come in and out of fashion.

And at this particular period of time, I see that in a lot of models portfolios they have heavy eyebrows, so I’m going to update this image.

The first thing that I’m going to do is to grab my polygonal selection tool.

I’m going to draw a selection around my eyebrow.

The selection is going to represent exactly the shape that I want to finish off with.

Eyebrow fill in Photoshop

Now just click around the shape that you want to create.

Eyebrow fill in Photoshop

Don’t forget to do the opposite eyebrow as well.

And remember, eyebrows are sisters, not twins, so you don’t have to have them looking completely identical.

There is a little bit of giving with this so don’t stress.

Eyebrow fill in Photoshop

Now let’s create a brand new layer by going to Layer – New – Layer

Photoshopping Eyebrows

You’ll see it appear at the top of your layers panel to the left-hand side.

Then let’s grab the brush tool, the settings don’t matter.

Photoshopping Eyebrows

Hold Alt on your keyboard and you will see the little eye dropped appear.

This means you can click on any color to use with your brush.

Then simply just paint over your selection, don’t worry about how it looks, we’ll fix that.

They will look like big crude blocks to start with.

Doesn’t matter just fill the selection with your color.

Photoshopping Eyebrows

When you have that done then deselect (the shortcut for this is Ctrl + D)

Photoshopping Eyebrows

Let’s soften those eyebrows up a little because as we talked about they are a little bit sharp and harsh at the minute.

Go to Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur

Photoshopping Eyebrows

Then when the panel appears you will see that you have a slider, you can use that or just type either into the radius box.

For me, 2 worked.

But you may have a larger or smaller image so the number will be relevant to your image.

All you want to do is get it to the point of where I have it below.

So just a medium blur should do the trick.

Photoshopping Eyebrows

When you have your blur and you’ve pressed Ok the next thing is we want to lower the opacity on that layer so it blends in a little better.

I’m sure it still looks a little off.

So on the left-hand side of your Photoshop screen, you will see the layers panel.

(if you don’t go to Window in the top menu, it’ll be in there)

In the panel you will see your layer, above that, you will see the word Opacity.

You can now highlight the number beside it and type in your own.

35% worked perfectly for me at this point but I can change this at any stage.

Photoshopping Eyebrows

Let’s also change the blend mode to Multiply

The way you do this is if you look on your layers panel you will see the word ‘Normal’

It’s just beside ‘Opacity’ you can’t miss it.

Click on that drop down box and you will see all the blend mode options.

Find Multiply and click on it.

The eyebrows will now be a little bit darker.

Photoshop Eyebrows Retouch

You can now play with the opacity again to see what results you get.

I was able to lower mine a little further to 10%

Next, we are going to be building up the individual hairs slowly so that it hides the color block some what.

At this point the eyebrow color block once the hairs have been created will look like it is actually makeup.

The more you fade the opacity the more natural it will end up looking.

And the more opacity you increase it by will look more like a makeup effect.

So if you wish in the end you will have the best of both worlds.

But for now, we are good as we are, as long as we have that base to work on first we’re good.

It will help us see better.

Ok so at a distance the eyebrows don’t look too bad, but when you zoom in they don’t look great.

Photoshop Eyebrow Tutorial

Next, we are going to be filling this in over the top with hairs so that it looks real.

There is a few ways that you can do this.

You can create a brush or go on your search engine and look for brushes that you can up load etc.

But there is a much simpler way to do this.

Let’s open up our Brush Tool.

Now we are going to make sure that brush is a soft brush.

At the top left-hand corner of your Photoshop screen.

Under ‘Edit’ you will see there is a drop down box, it’s the one with the number on it.

When you click into that you will see the options, click on the first one, that’s the soft brush.

You will also see to the right-hand side of the drop-down box, opacity.

That will make the brush more transparent to help with blending.

Photoshop Eyebrows Tutorial

Let’s create a new layer.

Photoshop Retouch

Change that layers blend-mode to Multiply.

Photoshop Eyebrow Retouch

Activate your brush tool again.

Hold Alt on the keyboard and take a sample of the hair, pick an area darker than what you have your eyebrows at.

Make your brush roughly the same size as one of her hairs/what you think the size of a single eyebrow hair would be.

You can do this using the keyboard shortcut, which is using the bracket keys.

My photo wasn’t too big so I was able to go right down to 1 pixel which is fine.

Next, open up the menu ‘Window – Brush’

Or F5 for the shortcut.

Photoshop Retouch

You will now have a large panel that appears with loads of cool options for your brush.

We only need to deal with a very small portion of this.

If you want in future I would say it would be beneficial to go back and check out these options and just have a play around.

But for now, all we have to deal with is the option ‘Shape Dynamics’

When you click on that you will see the option ‘Control’

Click on its drop box.

When it opens up to choose the option ‘Fade’

This will now create a tail for your brush head so you can mimic a hair.

There is a number beside that, I’d say keep it to around 25/30.

But by all means, experiment with other numbers for that, it may benefit your image.

For me, 25 had the correct size of the tail.

Photoshop Retouch

Next using your super artistic skills, just start to draw little hairs over your eyebrow.

Build it up as you go along and try to recreate what an eyebrow would look like.

If you make a mistake or it doesn’t look good, simply hit ‘Ctrl + Alt & Z’ to step back one.

You can do this a few time to go back each step.

Photoshop Retouch

When you have finished the hairs may look a little bit harsh, but don’t worry.

Remember we have the layer opacity option to fade it back a little.

So when I am happy with what I have created, I can then make a duplicate of that layer.

This will save you a little bit of work.

Photoshop Tutorial

When the duplicate is created go to ‘Edit – Transform – Flip Horizontal’

Photoshop Tutorial

Then you can place it over the other eyebrow to keep them looking similar.

The new layer will already be pre-prepared with the same settings you used for the other eyebrow.

Photoshop Tutorial

With that placed nicely, we are done and our model’s eyebrows should be looking pretty good!

Eyebrows Retouch Tutorial

Using The Smudge And Clone Stamp Tool Combo In Photoshop

Ok, we got a big title today, but one that gives up an equal amount of rewards.

For this tutorial I want you to spend a decent amount of time getting a really cool image!

I’d love for this tutorial to aid you while editing your own images.

If you want to add a cool atmosphere to your images then grab a hold of your images pick one and get it opened.

For we have work to do ๐Ÿ™‚

Or if you don’t have your own then the image below is the type of image that I want you to get.

I used the keywords ‘Fashion Model’ to search for images I thought would work well for this.

And this is the one I choose.

So something artistic and a little bit different than the normal average photo.

Clone and Smudge Tool Photoshop

So safety first, let’s create a duplicate of this layer.

If you have read my tutorials before you would have heard me bang on about this.

You’re probably like “dude! stop with the duplicates already we get it”

But it can save you a tonne of time.

So go to ‘Layer – Duplicate Layer’ the press OK when prompted to do so.

Clone And Smudge Tool Photoshop

Ok, let’s now grab the Smudge Tool First.

You’ll find it on the left-hand side menu.

As you can see from the image below you have to click on the section icon that looks like an eye drop.

Then you’ll see the Smudge Tool at the bottom, the icons a cool little hand smudging with its index finger ๐Ÿ™‚

Clone Smudge in Photoshop

Ok so it’s a strength should be about 50% for this.

You’ll see that option at the top menu under ‘Window’

Then what I’m going to do is click and just smudge the tiniest bit on the surrounding edges.

So areas like the edge of the seat, the dress, etc.

You have to be extremely subtle.

If you feel you have gone too far the holding Ctrl Alt and tapping Z will take you back steps.

Clone Smudge in Photoshop

When you have done this then create a brand new duplicate layer of the layer we just edited.

Then just lightly go over the furthermost edges again.

I went over the back edges of the chair again just slightly.

Then, I pulled a few bits from the hair at the back of her hair out.

This all gives the image a little bit of surreal motion.

Clone and Smudge in Photoshop

Feel free to try your own experiment to see what type of effect you get.

After I did the layer in the image above I decided to go a little bit further with the layer.

If it doesn’t look good you can, of course, go back or delete the layer, create a new duplicate and go again.

As you can see from my image below how much further I’ve taken the image.

I pulled the edges of the seat up so it looks like our model has just jumped down on the seat almost.

Or in the process of jumping out… whatever your creative mind what to think.

Smudge and Clone Tool Photoshop

Now we’ll move on to the Clone Stamp Tool.

Create a new layer.

Layer-New – Layer

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Then chose the Clone Stamp Tool from the left-hand side menu.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Make sure that it is on the ‘All Layers’ option as in the example image below.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Now to sample the area you want, hold Alt on your keyboard and click.

You can now paint the image sample off to the side just so you can see it.

We’ll be positioning it just in a second.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Drop the layer’s opacity to around 30%, we may change this when positioned.

You’ll see the option on the right-hand side in the layers menu, it’s beside the word ‘Normal’

Now hold Ctrl T to open up Free Transform.

You will now be able to click on the cloned area and move it.

I want to position it just to the top left of my model like she is in motion.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

I’ll give it a 1 on the Gaussian Blur too as shown below.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

The last step is I’m going to create one more layer which is a duplicate of the layer we just edited.

Then position it again just off to the top left of the freshly edited layer.

Add 2 this time to its blur and drop the opacity of that layer to about 5%.

Clone Stamp and Smudge Tool Photoshop

And with all that done, you are now done!

You can tamper with the layer’s opacity as much as you want now until you are happy.

I was happy with my settings so hope you were to and enjoyed.

Clone Stamp Smudge Photoshop Main

My Process For Retouching Newborn Babies Blotchy Skin In Photoshop

Hello all and welcome to this Tutorial.

Today I’m going to be showing you my process for Retouching Newborns.

So for Retouching portraits, there is a general overall process that you can follow to start off with.

And that’s for just the average basic person from where ever in the world they are from.

But, when it comes to certain little nippers that are newborn there will be a lot of blotching in the skin.

Which is a pain!

BUT!!

I have the very solution to turn that pain in tointooshop satisfaction!

Ok so check out this little one!

Newborn Photoshop

This little one is angry and annoyed because he’s had his photo taken and he’s got blotchy skin!

You can if you want to use this image and work alongside me on this tutorial here is the link to the image (Link)

I found it hard to actually find an image online for this that I could use.

If you have your own images at the ready, then, by all means, use that!

The process will be the same as long as it’s at a respectable level of quality.

Let’s get going.

So by now you should have found your image and have it opened up in Photoshop.

Create yourself a Duplicate.

You do this by going to ‘Layer – Duplicate Layer’

Newborn Photoshop

We do this step even it’s not technically required.

It’s always good to have a spare original layer and it’s cool at the end when I group all my edited layers together.

Then flick between the two to see the difference.

This helps a good deal when editing as well because it can help you see things you may have missed.

So for that reason alone, it’s worth creating a 2-second duplicate.

Right now we are all set up let’s open up ‘Channels’

You do this by going to ‘Window – Channels’

Newborn Photoshop

On the right-hand side now you will see that the panel opened.

If not then you may be already had it opened and by hitting channels it closed it.

So no panic, just repeat.

Newborn Photoshop

What channels are is the image colors being split up into the base colors.

When dealing with RGB, which is for web and what most of your images will be unless you change to CYMK which is for print.

But not going into CYMK in this tutorial as it’s not needed let’s just talk about what RGB is.

It stands for…

Red

Green

Blue

That means that using just these 3 colors the computer can mix any color.

So, channels enable you to work with each independently.

Handy right!?

So to correct these blotchy areas let’s grab the green layer and drag it down to the little icon.

It’s just beside the recycling bin in at the bottom of your channels panel.

When you are over it, release the mouse button.

Newborn Photoshop

You will now see that there is a new green layer at the bottom called “Green Copy”.

Newborn Photoshop

The next step that we are going to do is to open up levels.

So go to Image – Adjustments – Levels

Newborn Photoshop

Our goal here is to increase the contrast of the darker areas.

To do this I will first drag the tab on the Input Levels portion of the panel that popped up.

That’s the tab on the right, the white one.

Drag that towards the center, which is towards the left until you start to see highlighted areas get blown out a little.

Then you drag the middle tab towards the right darkening down the image.

Don’t go too far with this, what you see in my image below is something similar to what you should be after.

Then press ‘Ok’

Newborn Photoshop

Now we have to make a selection of that layer.

To do this, hold Ctrl on your keyboard and click the thumbnail of the green copy layer.

The thumbnail is the little box with a mini version of the image in it that’s black and white.

You’ll now see the marching ants as they’re called all around your image.

Newborn Photoshop

Now click back into your Layers Panel (if you need to find it you can find it in the same way we got Channels, in that ‘Window’ drop down)

Then go to Layer – New Adjustment Layer – Curves

Newborn Photoshop

A pop up will now appear and your screen will go Red.

Newborn Photoshop

To get rid of the red just click on the thumbnail of the layer, we need to anyway.

Photoshop Newborn Retouch

The reason we need to is so we can invert the selection, at the minute it is set for lights, but we want to target the dark areas.

So click on your Curves Adjustment layer thumbnail and hold Ctrl, then press I on your keyboard.

Photoshop Newborn Retouch

Now we are going to activate the Curves Adjustment again by double clicking on the half black, half white circle icon beside our thumbnail.

When the panel appears, click the center, hold and drag it directly up. (then you can go to either side depending on your image if needs be)

Do this until your skin starts to look balanced out, but be aware that there will still be some blue areas due to the veins.

Photoshop Newborn

To deal with these other little areas we will first create a new layer.

There is a very nice solution for this!

Photoshop Newborn

When you have your layer, then look at the layers panel, there you will see a drop down box with the word ‘Normal’

This is known as your blend modes.

Click into that and have a look at the bottom and you will see ‘Color’ click it and your layer will now be that blend mode.

Photoshop Newborn

Ok so what does this do…

Well if you select your brush tool.

Photoshop Newborn

Making sure that is is on the soft brush option which is the first in the list.

I basically use this 99% of the time unless I’m using a very specific brush.

You find this option at the top left hand corner just under the word ‘Edit’

Photoshop Newborn

Also change the opacity to 50%, you’ll see that option to the right of the menu bar.

Photoshop Newborn

Now all you have to do, it identify the areas in your head that you want to fix.

So this would be areas like those veins we talked about.

Then hold Alt and click on an area close to that area, a nice pink area.

You have now sampled that color.

Paint over the are you want to cover and you will see the color being replaced!

If you feel that you may have went overboard with the colors, then fine, don’t worry because…

You always have the option of lowering the opacity of the actual layer on the right to soften that down a little.

Below you can see in my example image I have this lowered to 80% now.

Photoshop Newborn

Create another new layer, we are now going to run a Spot Healing Tool session on our image just to remove any odd areas we don’t like.

So grab that Tool from the side as shown below.

Photoshop Baby

Then all we have to do with our new layer created and selected at the top of the pile is to zoom in and get to work.

To zoom in I use the plus and minus keys on my keyboard while holding Ctrl.

I hold down the space bar to click and move around my image.

Then I target any little scratches, or things like you can see in the corner of the eye below.

So like little beads of sweat or wrinkles.

You will notice that sometimes the result isn’t that great depending, so just hold Ctrl + Alt and hit Z to go back a step and try again.

This time you may need to use a small size on your brush.

Do a good once over on your image for 5 minutes or so, I doubt it would take any longer.

Newborn Retouching

Great we are nearly done, just one more little thing that I want to do.

And that’s to add a slight blur.

So click on your top layer.

Then hold shift.

Holding shift now click on your bottom layer above the Background layer.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

This has highlighted all those layers so that you can create a duplicate layer of them all.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

Right click on the new layer and select merge layers.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

Now let’s add a Gaussian blur.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

3-4 should do the trick.

It’s just to get rid of little fine hairs etc.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

Then with an opacity of about 50% on your eraser tool, just rub out doing multiple mouse clicks areas of interest.

That’s the mouth, eyes, ears, checks, hair and chin…ears too if you wish.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

Let’s look at the difference below.

Newborn Photoshop

Hope you enjoyed.

Newborn Photoshop Retouch

Create A Simple Photo Composite To Improve Dusk Scenes In Photoshop

Hi all, got a cool composite for you today to improve your dusk scenes.

Today I want to add a full day moon or an early full moon, whichever you want to call it to my image as it was a full moon this weekend for me where I live

It was out pretty early, it was out even before it got dark.

So that got me thinking about photography and how a picture would look great where I was with the full moon and all.

That takes us to here!

The first thing we must do for this tutorial is to get some suitable images to use.

Let’s do that now for ten minutes or so and before you do look at the images I got below.

Each with an explanation so makes sure to read that before you find yours.

Day Moon Photoshop

So this image of the skyline I loved.

There is an issue with it though so it’s something I want you to look out for as well.

Be careful with the buildings in your image because you can’t slap a moon on top of them in full sharpness as that would look very fake.

I do have a solution for this and I’m going to show you.

Also, note the this will only work with very soft clouds if the clouds are very strong and defined it won’t work at all.

Best look for no clouds at all.

As I am doing this tutorial as we speak I may have to improvise on this issue as well!

Simple Photoshop Composite

Now for the moon image, all you have to do is just pick a nice full bodied moon.

If we wish to at the time we can change the general tone to it so don’t worry if it looks too white.

I’ll show you how to make it blend in better.

Or if you are happy with it the way it is then cool, use that one.

Right, so the first thing I’m going to do is crop the moon out and then add it to our main image.

We are going to do that using the ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’

First, if you don’t have them activated, go to ‘View’ and click on ‘Rulers’

You’ll no notice that the measurements have appeared around the edges of your workspace.

Simple Photoshop Composite

This now means that you can click on them and drag measurement lines from the top and side.

Simple Photoshop Composite

Do that twice so that they are positioned just like mine below so that they are on the top and edge of the moon.

Simple Photoshop Composite

You can now grab your Elliptical Marquee Tool from the side menu.

You’ll also notice above it on the top menu you will see the word ‘Feather’

Click into that and add 1 so that we get a small blur around the edge of our moon image.

The feather just gives it less of a sharp cut so it doesn’t look so fake which it can tend to do if you don’t add a feather.

Of course, some images may require a zero feather.

I tend to find myself adding most of the time a 0.5 just for the sake of what I mentioned above.

Simple Photoshop Composite

We can no click where our measurement lines meet at the top there.

Then while holding shift on your keyboard you can drag out a perfect circle until you have almost gotten a perfect selection.

What I mean by almost is, I don’t try to select the moon perfectly, I select about 98% of it.

This way I don’t get any of the backgrounds by mistake and it also gives me a little bit to work with when using my arrow keys to position it.

Once you get this far and your selection is made.

Hit your arrow keys on your keyboard to nudge the selection into a good position if you need to as I did.

Simple Photoshop Composite

When you’re happy, go to ‘Edit – Copy’

Simple Photoshop Composite

You can now close down the moon image when you have it copied.

Paste it into your main image.

Go to ‘Edit – Paste’

Day Moon Photoshop

Your moon image will now appear looking good in your main image.

Day Moon Photoshop

We don’t need it just yet so click on Layers there on the side.

If you don’t see it there you will find it in ‘Window’ up in the top menu.

Of you can hit the F7 key.

You will see a little eye icon beside the layer thumbnail, you can see it below on my image on the right.

Click the eye belonging to the moon image to hide it.

When we need it again you will just click where the eye used to be so it reappears.

Day Moon Photoshop

Let’s now click on the layer below that, the one with the actual main image on it.

What we want to do here is to create a duplicate for it, now I don’t particularly need it for this tutorial.

I want to just make it clear that creating a duplicate of your original image is a good routine to practice.

Even you don’t need it.

Doing professional work you never know what you could be called back to do in the future.

If you are making a lot of edits as well things can get very messy.

So it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Go to ‘Layer’ in your top menu and click on ‘Duplicate Layer’ this will create a copy that will be placed above the main image that you started with.

Day Moon Photoshop

Click that layer if it is not already activated.

What we are going to do now is to cut a section of the buildings out so we can jam the moon in behind it.

You don’t need to do the whole thing, just a section!

Let’s grab our Polygonal Tool as shown below on the left-hand side at the top.

As we talked about before, let’s make the Feather 0.5, you will see that at the top left as well just under ‘Type’ and ‘Select’

Day Moon Photoshop

Now that we’re set, choose an area that you want to crop out.

For my image, I decided to go a little lower on the buildings to where it wasn’t so complicated.

As you can see from the image above there were a few little spikes there that would have made things a bit annoying to work with.

So why to bother, you have a full artistic license unless you are dealing with a client that wants specifics.

Or the other is if the composition is not friendly with your ideas.

Somethings it’s unfortunate but the image itself can be your worst enemy so to speak.

Note: to click and drag around your image without interrupting your workflow hold the space bar on your keyboard.

Then you can click and drag freely until you let go.

Also, you can use the plus and minus keys on your keyboard to zoom in and out.

I use this 90 % of the time.

To create the section that I have below all you have to do is click on a point to get started.

From there you just keep clicking tracing around the image in small increments.

If you make a mistake just hit Ctrl+Z on your keyboard to go back a notch.

This takes time to totally master but you should be getting the hang of it very soon.

Once you have traced around the area that you want you can get a little bit more careless just to close it up.

To close up you just click the point where you began.

Day Moon Photoshop

No, it is just a matter of going to ‘Edit’ in the top menu ‘Copy’ and then ‘Paste’

Day Moon Photoshop

Day Moon Photoshop

Now the crop will be on its own layer that you can move around both on the image and in your layers panel on the right.

So, what do we need to do now?

Well, we have to place the moon behind the buildings.

To do this, click on the moon layer that is on the top in the layers panel.

Drag it down until it is below the new building layer that we just cropped out.

Then release the mouse button and it will drop right in there!

Day Moon Photoshop

Ok let’s position our moon, you may find that it is a little bit too big, ok no worries.

Key in on your keyboard Ctrl+T.

That activates the Free Transform tool.

This will allow you to shape and move any cropped out element as well as an image in your layers panel apart from one.

The bottom background layer, you will notice that there is a little padlock on that one.

Well if you want to remove it which you may need to do in the future for whatever project, all you have to do is double click on it.

That will remove the padlock and that layer will now be fully editable.

But I usually just create the duplicate, but at least you know.

Ok so after you click on Ctrl+T you can now shift the moon to where you want it, then resize, so shift first, resize after.

When you resize if you don’t want your image to distort hold shift on your keyboard while you do this.

This is called constraining your image.

So minus all the technical jargon it just means it will stay the same shape no matter how big or small you make it in the end.

If needs be you can also click the corners to rotate the image as well.

We don’t need to do it here, or at least I don’t, you’re moon may need a little more moving around than mine does.

Day Moon Photoshop

To position, I just zoomed in a little to see better using my plus and minus keys.

I wouldn’t want to have any weird mistakes around the edges of the building that I didn’t notice.

Always remember to zoom in and out as we talked about and drag your image around using that space bar, these two tips are invaluable and should be part of your default daily repertoire.

I use these ALL the time constantly and consistently.

Day Moon Photoshop

Let’s add a little bit of distance to our moon, the way I’m going to do this is to first create a duplicate of it just like we did before with the main image.

Day Moon Photoshop

Then I’m going to click on the bottom moon so that the layer is activated.

Go to ‘Filter’ on the top menu.

Click on it and scan down until you see ‘Blur’

Click that and you will then see my old friend ‘Gaussian Blur’

Day Moon Photoshop

A little panel will appear with a slide bar at the bottom which will let you change the blur of your image.

We don’t have to go crazy here, 1.5 will do just fine for mine.

If your image in the little preview box doesn’t blur up much just move the slide bar on a little until you get a slight blur.

Something like what I have will be perfect for it.

Hit OK when you’re done.

Day Moon Photoshop

Now click on the top moon again which is the copy.

We are going to add a mask to it.

Go to ‘Layer’ – ‘Layer Mask’ and click on ‘Reveal All’

Day Moon Photoshop

You will now notice a little white box appear beside the layer.

This means you can now click on that box, then activate your Brush Tool.

Day Moon Photoshop

Make sure to choose the first brush in the options (just below ‘Edit’ in the top menu)

also, change your opacity to 25% (just under ‘Window’)

Day Moon Photoshop

Now using Black you can paint directly on to your image to hide the edges.

Don’t go too deep into the image, just give it a quick go around on the outside to blend it in with the blur nicely.

I just don’t want a hard edge.

If you run into trouble change your brush to white and it will undo the hidden areas.

The next thing I did was to change both the layer’s opacity.

You find this option for the layers in the panel just above the layers.

Change both to 45% to give it a nice blend in with the sky so it seems off in the distance.

Day Moon Photoshop

Day Moon Photoshop

The last thing I want to do, that isn’t necessary but I think it will go well with my image is to De-saturate the layer.

Click on the main background layer.

Key in on your keyboard Ctrl+U to open this option up.

The middle slider is the one you want, so slide it to the left so your image starts to look a little bit more grey and washed out.

Remember to match the building layer covering the moon with the same amount.

Day Moon Photoshop

Then with a mask, as we did just now we can hide parts over lights and signs so they come out at us.

Day Moon Photoshop

Hope you enjoined and learned a lot.

Day Moon Photoshop

How To Edit With Amazing Warm Tones In Lightroom

Hi all, and welcome to this New Lightroom Tutorial were I’m going to be taking a look at adding some really cool warm tones to my image.

Recently I have been working with a Fitness Trainer that has her own range of gym gear.

So I’ve been doing up her images.

We settled on this really cool warm toned browns and oranges for the images which I think look really classy.

So I’m going to share my exact process with you today.

Open up your image in Lightroom. (if you don’t know how to do that check out this Tutorial)

The image I will be using hash browns in it already so it’s going to be easy to transition to where I want the colors to be.

Your image might be very different.

If that’s the cases, just slide the sliders more than what I have it at or less.

That means using you out intuition just a little bit in this tutorial.

But don’t worry I’m not leaving you completely out in the rain, the basics of the process are the exact same.

Ok, so this is the image I’ll be using below.

You can see that there are some nice warm tones in there already.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

The first thing I want to do is go to ‘Develop’ you’ll see it on the top right.

In there look for Basic, it’s the first tab.

When you open that up you will see the Temp and Tint sliders.

I move the Temp +15 to the right to add yellow, which adds warmth.

Below that I’ll add in some green tint, I chose -10.

This will just get rid of any crazy pinks in there that will clash with the yellow.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

Let’s add some contrast too! I went with 45, so for you, this might work too, if not to be safe stay around 35.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

After that I decided to work with my shadows a little bit, I went with +15, I felt this looked we’ll be balanced.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

Next, let’s take a look at Whites and Blacks.

With this I hold ‘Alt’ on my keyboard, when you do this you will see the screen turn black and white.

To achieve the perfect level you pull the slider across until the pixelized version of your image has either disappeared or is just on the verge.

The rare occasion this will not work, like below for me, my blacks went all the way to +100.

If this happens just double check with your image and if it’s not looking so good.

Just pull those Blacks or Whites back so your image looks normal.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

I’m going to add some clarity now, +25 to give it a little boost in sharpness but nothing too crazy.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

We are now done with the Basic Panel, so let’s move to Tone Curve.

You will see below the histogram with the line through it.

At the bottom right of that panel, you will see a little box similar to the histogram.

Click it to you see the other option available.

The one we will be working with is the one without the sliders, so make sure that your image looks exactly like mine below.

Amazing Tones In Lightroom

Now what I did here was I clicked at the top of the first graph square to make an anchor.

Then I clicked on the bottom left point and pulled it upward until it gave me a cool drained/lightly foggy look.

Lightroom Amazing Warm Tones

Now I’m just going to go into my HSL panel.

My only suggestion here would be to just try out all the sliders and see what happens.

I stuck with only subtle edits here with oranges and yellows.

I did most of my work in the Luminance section.

try to match the color sliders with the colors in your image.

If you can’t get the exact color, match the closest slider with the color in the image.

Amazing Warm Tones Lightroom

The very last thing I did was to go down to effects.

I added a tiny Vignette, only -15 on the Amount as seen below.

Also, I decided to add some grain too, I figured it would work well so I added a small amount.

Lightroom Amazing Warm Tones

That’s it, as you can see from my before and after image, a lot more warmth has been added to my image and there if much more atmosphere about it too because of that.

Lightroom Amazing Warm Tones

Lightroom Amazing Warm Tones Classy

Learn To Edit Like Chad.latorre In Lightroom

Hi all, hope you are ready for some Lightroom learning today!

Today we are going to be looking at (as the title says) @chad.lotorre so pay his Instagram a visit and check him out.

Or if you are already in the “I’m familiar” camp then cool.

The first mission, if you look at his images, they are a lot of epic landscapes.

So let’s find yourself an image to use of equal epicness.

This is the Image that I’ll be using today…

I’m sure you’ll agree that’s a pretty cool looking image so if you get anything even remotely like that then cool.

Who knows you may even have some shots you did yourself that look as good.

If you do I envy you because you must have had one awesome trip somewhere.

Lanscape Edit

Ok, so the first edits that I’m going to do are my standard “go to with any image” I start to edit.

So in the image below you will see my settings.

To access these settings click on ‘Basic’ on the right-hand side of your image.

Lightroom Landscape Editing

You see my settings there but I don’t want you to do my exact settings because there is a trick to this.

Highlights and Shadows I do always do the same though.

I drop my Highlights right down and I have my Shadows at +100, this is a standard.

I will also add about +15 to clarity but this isn’t a necessary step.

It just adds a little sharpness to your images.

But for Whites, Blacks and Exposure I hold the Alt key while sliding the sliders.

Do that to you see what happens there for a second…

You will see that your screen either turns completely Black or White with most probably your image now displayed with pixels.

What you do here to find the perfect level is, you slide your slider until the pixels are either completely gone or there’s just a few lefts.

This works 90% of the time but sometimes you have an image that it doesn’t work on so then you’ll just have to use your naked eye.

In that case, just use your best judgment.

Now in that same panel, you can add +15 to both Temp and Vibrance just to warm the image up a little bit more.

Lightroom Landscape Edit

Cool so that’s the first stage of our editing done, this will be the foundation for the rest of the image.

Effects are next, I want to add a little bit of Vignetting to the image, this is a process were the outside of the images appears darker.

It’s great for channeling your eye towards the center of the image.

Scroll down that panel on the right with basic until you see ‘Effects’

I only used two of the sliders for this, they were Amount were I added -50 to and Midpoint which was set at 25.

Lightroom Edit Landscape

You can have a play around with the other sliders if you want just to see what they do if you don’t find anything else you’d like then just move everything back to where I have my sliders set.

Let’s add a little gradient to our image now.

I want my gradient to darken that bottom lip of my image.

Press (M) on your keyboard to activate your gradient, then you click and drag it out, by moving your mouse in a circular motion you will rotate it as you may need to, to have the bottom dark and the top light.

Place it where ever you want by clicking and holding on the middle circle icon.

You can re-click at any stage while doing this on the outside to adjust the size.

When you have your gradient as you want it, you can then edit your sliders if you want so you could drop your Exposure or whatever similar to what we did in our foundation edit at the start.

When done click on ‘Done’ at the bottom right of your image window.

Lightroom Editing Landscapes

I feel like I want to do one more gradient, but this time I’m going to come in from the right-hand side at an angle to darken it as the sunshine is splitting the clouds on the left side.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

The next step we’re going to take that I notice in Chad’s images is there is always an interesting haze on the light source.

To do this key in (Shift+M) to open up your Radial Filter.

So much the same as we did with the Gradient Filter stretch it out and adjust until you are happy.

You will see at the bottom of that panel that has now just opened up a checkbox entitled Invert Mask, make sure that’s checked.

I also changed a few settings on the sliders which were…

Temp, I added 20

I changed my exposure to 1

Lastly, I changed my sharpness to -40

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

Once you have this done, do one more only this time make it larger.

Only this time I’m just going to adjust my Sharpness again as I did previous to give more of a haze.

Remember to use your own judgment, if my settings don’t look right on your image then take them back a little or increase them.

The settings I am using could be very specific to my image.

If you wish you can do a few more Radial Filters on specific areas to pick them out, such as my foreground here.

I just added one more to that area and played around with the setting s a little to sharpen it up or to add contrast.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

Now let’s do some color adjustments.

On the panels on the right-hand side, scroll down until you see HSL and click on it.

You will then see just below that a few more options, just click on all.

There are no settings here that I can give you but my advice here is to just go through each slider in turn and see what you think.

For my image, I deadened the stone mostly though saturation and I strengthened the greens.

But not to the point of insanity, just a nice pick up to increase their vibrancy a little.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

After I’m done with HSL I’m going to move to Split-Toning, so my desired result for this was to split the Greens and the Red/Oranges.

I wanted my Highlights as it would be most of the foliage to have a nice green.

I will allocate the shadows for Reds/Oranges.

So take a look at your image and think how you would like it to look, choose two colors and go for it just as I have.

This I’ll leave up to you, see what you can come up with!

Just play around with the Highlights first trying out the hue slider to get to a color that looks good.

You can always pull the color back if it looks too much for your image by adjusting the saturation slider to the left which will drain the color.

The opposite way increases the strength of the color but I doubt you’ll need to go that way.

Be mindful that you don’t start unrealistic transitions between colors.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

Really liking how my image is shaping up, but I want to just add one last radial filter.

I’m going to place it where I want my viewer’s eye to be drawn to.

So the key focal point of this image is the valley area, so that’s where my radial filter will be…

Sharpness will be increased until I feel my eye is really being drawn in.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

Think I’m pretty much done at this point but there is just one last thing that I want to try just to see if it makes my image look any better.

I would say to try this if you want but your image may be sweet at this point and you may be happy enough.

But it’s a last little curious edit on my part.

What I’m going to look at it the Tone Curve.

My image as is I think I could add a little bit more haze.

(NOTE: there are two settings to the Tone Curve.

Click on the little box at the bottom right of the graph until you have exactly what I have on my screen)

Then all I did was to take the bottom left point and just move it up a little bit, I then did the opposite with the point at the top right.

Lastly, I clicked a point in the middle and moved that up just a little bit.

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

I can now say I’m totally finished and am now happy with my final image.

Hope you are too ๐Ÿ™‚

Lightroom Edits Lanscapes

Color Toning Mastery Using Levels In Photoshop

Hi all, got a fast one for you today if you want to adjust your images overall coloring.

Today we’re are going to be taking a look at Color Toning using ‘Levels’

The technique that we will be using here can be applied to any image that you have.

Check out the image I’ll be using for this, get something similar or use one of your own if you can which would be awesome.

If you wish you can use any type of image you like, landscapes, portrait etc. no restrictions for this one.

So I feel that my image is too red!

I want to bring some more of the green out in the image and perhaps add a little blue and yellow in there too.

Color Toning Mastery

Ok, let’s get to it.

For this Tutorial, we’re going to be using an adjustment layer.

What this is if you don’t know already is it is a separate layer for the actual adjustment.

Adjustment layers let you go back at a later date and adjust the edit instead of going to ‘image – adjustments’ and working directly on your image.

Go to Layer-New Adjustment Layer – Levels

Color Toning Mastery

When you go through the ‘OK confirmation’ etc. you will now see the layer on the right-hand side in the layers panel.

Color Toning Mastery

In that layer, if at any time the actual levels panel disappears.

Double click on the black and white circle icon in the layer to have it reappear again.

Color Toning Mastery

So just a quick brief on levels, the first histogram you will see 3 sliders…

Left = Darks

Middle = Mid-tones

Right = Lights

The one below that that has only two sliders is as follows…

This time when you slide the slider on the right towards the center it will make your Darks lighter.

Sliding the slider on the right-hand side towards the center will make the lightest areas darker.

You can also use a combination of the two slider sections once you start to get a real feel for what they do.

Take a second and play around with those sliders to get a feel for what they do and then slide them back into place when you’re done.

Now let’s start color toning.

The way to do this is to use the channels option that’s available.

Look for the ‘Auto’ button in the levels panel that we have open.

Besides that, you will then see RGB.

When you click on that you will then see the color channels.

RGB stands for…

Red.

Green.

Blue.

So when you move the sliders clicked on RGB you adjust all the colors at the one time.

Color Toning Mastery

So we are going to go through each channel and see what we can come up with.

As stated, my goal here is to remove the reds and give the image a more Green/Blue tone.

The way that I do this is by clicking on the red channel first.

Color Toning Tutorial

Now I will try the bottom sliders first to see what happens.

When I slide the left-hand slider you will see that it actually adds more reds to the image.

Therefore the opposite slider must do the opposite and instead of red. it will now add more green.

So you see that the sliders add the complimentary color.

The complementary colors are…

Red – Green/Green – Red.

Blue – Yellow.

The process that I will now follow is, I’ll do my Red channel first to see what happens using the bottom sliders.

I’m not going to bother with the Green channel as it is the same as the red.

Though in saying that you can try the middle 3 sliders on that if you wish.

Then I’ll finish off with the Blue channel and see if I can add something else like a little bit of Blue.

Color Toning

That is pretty much it.

Just a very quick way to adjust Color Tone that takes a matter of seconds.

For the adjustments I don’t want to give you a set formula on the colors I think the knowledge of the complementary colors should be enough.

Instead, I would rather play around with your image until you reach a point when YOU are happy.

Doing this over time will help you develop an eye for what looks good and what doesn’t which is where we all want to be in the photography business.

Good luck!

Color Toning

Color Toning

Give Someone A Completely Different Hair Cut In Photoshop

Hello there, are you ready for some more Photoshop Tutorial learning fun?

Cool, today let’s take a look at giving people completely different haircuts, this is a follow up to another tutorial I did call ‘How To Make Anybody Bald Using Photoshop’

In that tutorial, I took a random model and completely removed his hair to see how he would look if he shaved it all over.

So if you’re thinking about paying a visit to the hairdressers to get a grade 1 or less then that will be a good tutorial for you to look at.

But for this, we’ll be doing the opposite, in this tutorial I’m going to be just changing up a person hairstyle totally.

Again this is a great tutorial if you’re thinking about a new haircut but you don’t want to go all out just yet.

Using this tutorial you can change yourself up for a couple of different hairstyles.

If you really like one then you can maybe get a print out to show the hairdresser exactly what it is that you would like done.

So, now I’m going to Pixabay to I find suitable images to use for this tutorial.

Photoshop Model

Ok, so there are two ways we can do this depending on the result we want.

As I just want to see what my model would look like with a different haircut I can superimpose the face of this main image onto another…

Thus keeping the second images background limiting any messing around with the hair.

But if you have to do this for another reason then you may have to cut the hair out on the second image.

Then place it over the main image or over a new background or whatever then superimpose the face.

I have numerous Tutorials on cutting out hair, links provided below.

My Solution to Cropping Long Hair in Photoshop

My Solution to Cropping Short Hair in Photoshop

How To Remove Fringing After Cropping Hair In Photoshop

Enjoy those!

But for this, we are just going to go with option 1!

The image below is where I’ll be adding my model.

Photoshop Model Hair

Select your Polygonal Tool.

Above that, you’ll see the Feather option (you’ll see it just below Type and Select in the top menu) change that to about 2 or 3, and when you make your selection, take your time and do it correctly and as good as you possibly can.

If you make a mistake Ctrl+Alt then hit Z

Photoshop Model Hair

Then just start to click along the jawline etc. until you get a perfect cut out, in saying that, just with that face, you can be chilled with the hair.

Just make sure the main face is good, then at the end click where you started to close the selection and you’ll see the marching ants.

Photoshop Model Hair

Now copy and paste your selected image into your second image.

Photoshop Model Hair

Photoshop Model Hair

Key in Ctrl+Alt+T on your keyboard to open up your free transform option, you can now click and drag the ends to resize the face so it looks right.

You can also drop the opacity of your new layer (you will see on the right-hand side) so you can match it up with the face underneath.

Note: holding shift will keep your image the same proportions.

Photoshop Model Hair

Your face may be off in color, there are many ways to fix this up but one of the easiest is to play with the Hue and Saturation.

You’ll find that in ‘Image’ on your top menu.

Photoshop Model Hair

When that’s open what I do is first I’ll adjust the Hue until I find a flesh tone similar to the one below.

Then I’ll move to Saturation, usually, you’ll find as you get better these two steps should be enough.

But you may need to go back and forth a few times to make little adjustments.

I usually never have to mess with Lightness but you’ll find sometimes if you feel you’re 90% there, a little tweak on Lightness can help.

Photoshop Model Hair

You may find areas that don’t match up, like this ear, so for this, I suggest using the Clone Stamp Tool (Check out ‘Become a Master of Photoshop’s Clone Tool’ Tutorial Link here) to tidy them up.

Photoshop Hair Model

You may also have some areas of your original selection to tidy up as well.

Like the areas on the left-hand side of the jaw on my model here.

Photoshop Model Hair

An easy way to fix this is you can select if the face is pretty much symmetrical as mine is with the Rectangular Marquee Tool.

Photoshop Model

Photoshop Model

Then you copy, paste as we did earlier and then flip it by going to Edit – Transform – Flip Horizontal.

Vertical will flip it upside down, so that’s good to remember in case you need it.

Photoshop Model

Then all you got to do is to place it [Ctrl+Alt+T for the Free Transform Tool] where you need it, as we did with the face originally you can drop the opacity if you need to, to 50% and then back again when you’re done.

Photoshop Model

When you are happy with the placement and everything you will most likely have to blend them together, which takes me to the next part.

Which is Layer Masking.

So what Layer Masking is in a nutshell, imagine in real life if you could take a marker to your photos and where you drew on your photo it disappeared.

And then you were able to take another marker and drew over the same area again and the photo reappeared.

Well, this is exactly what a Layer Mask does.

Making sure you have selected the top layer in your layer panel which will be the pasted part of the face.

You then go to Layer – Layer Mask – Reveal All

Photoshop Model

When you do this, you will now see a small White thumbnail appear next to your layer in the layers panel on the right as illustrated below.

Photoshop Model Hair

Ok so you now have to make sure that you have clicked on that thumbnail if you don’t this will not work.

Sometimes you might forget, I do all the time while working fast, so if that happened just backtrack the mistake by keying in and holding Ctrl+Alt then hitting the letter Z.

Select your Brush Tool, we’re going to be using it for pretty much the rest of the Tutorial.

Photoshop Model

Then we are going to choose our brush head, so click on the tab just below the word ‘Edit’ on your top left corner in the menu.

A panel will appear.

You want to choose the first brush in that menu, that’s the brush I use probably 99.9% of all my Photoshop work.

I only ever really use other brushes when they are custom made ones, the brush next to the soft brush is the hard brush.

Those two plus my custom made brushes (generally for hair retouching) are the only brushes I basically use ever.

Click that, then look to the right a little bit to you see the word ‘Opacity’ with this you can choose how strong the brush is…

An Opacity of 50% is really great for blending, though I will change up and down depending on the situation.

I also do this mid workflow with the size of my brush by hitting the Bracket keys on my keyboard.

Another is holding the space bar, this will allow you to click and drag around your image while holding it.

Photoshop Model

Now chose the color of the brush.

This is important.

Black Hides

White Reveals

So just like we talked about a second ago with the magic makers analogy.

There are two ways you can do this, you can double click on the two squares two thirds the way down the menu on the left and then change your color.

But we don’t need color.

So just above those two main squares, you’ll see another set.

Click them for change your brush to Black and White.

Then by clicking the little arrow beside that to the right, you can flick between the two.

Photoshop Model

You are now set!

Now just start to multi-click over the areas that you want to get rid of and they should blend in nicely.

Photoshop Model

Now we repeat this whole process with the main face and blend it in.

This will take time and care! and remember to Clone out carefully those areas from the face beneath to tidy it up.

The one thing I want to point out here is that I did a lot of low opacity soft blending around the edges, clicking many many times to build up the blend.

This all really comes only with practice, your final image will look as real as the time and effort you put into it.

Photoshop Model

Edit Like Damian Pliskoart For Car Enthusiasts

Hello, so I’m guessing you’re a car enthusiast?

Well if you are or if you’re not it’s not going to matter because I got an awesome Photoshop/Lightroom tutorial for you today.

You will learn some awesome techniques to improve your images or simply just to widen your skill set in general.

Today I got a huge one for ya!

We’re going to be applying some magic to just an ordinary photograph of a car and we’re going to be making it look like it’s a million bucks!

So if you’re not a professional photographer then a lot of times it can be hard to get shots that right away look amazing.

The weather can be off, or the subject could be in an area with shadows that you can do nothing about.

But don’t worry, that can all be easily fixed when you got the know-hows using Photoshop and Lightroom…

And anyway, who really these days bar the top tear of photographers with studios and perfect lighting all set up will get perfect photos right off the bat, anyone?

I know I defiantly don’t that’s for sure.

I do probably 90% of my work on Photoshop or Lightroom, but in saying that.

When I take pictures I still keep in mind I’m trying to take a really good shot.

With everything being digital these days and film no longer burning holes in our pockets we can afford to take hundreds of images and work back using Lightroom and Photoshop lucky enough.

So let’s get ourselves and awesome image of a car.

Bare in mind that the image you’re going to be looking for should not be retouched already or have any sort of filter added to it at all.

Something similar to the image that I have below that I’m going to use for mine will be perfect.

Edit Like Damian Pliskoart For Car Enthusiasts

[Image from Pixabay]

You can see that there is no weird lighting etc.

It’s just a standard, very cool but somewhat ‘dull’ image taken with a normal SLR camera.

So cool let’s start our tutorial!

First we are going to work with Lightroom, so go ahead and open that up and import your image and get prepared in Develop. [See this Lightroom Tutorial if you don’t know how yet]

Lightroom Tutorial

When you are ready, open up ‘Basic’ on the right-hand side.

You will see all the sliders there in my image below with my explanation underneath the image so make sure you read that while looking at the image so you know what’s actually going on and understand it.

Edit Like Damian Pliskoart For Car Enthusiasts

These are my settings for those.

Temp – I choose +10 because I wanted to add a little bit of warmth to my image. [Note: you go the other way it cools it down]

Tint – I’m going to add +10 for this too just to add a tiny little bit more warmth but in a different color.

Exposure – With this, we’re going to go the opposite way -10 just to fade those colors back a little.

Highlights – My standard when editing is to just drop the Highlights the whole way to -100, this is my default.

Shadows – I do the exact same with shadows on I go the opposite way +100, this too is my defaults.

[Note: with the highlights and shadows, they are my defaults but I’m still going to keep my awareness of how the image looks, if it looks terrible or starts getting weird pixels then reel these back a little until it looks decent again]

Whites – so there is a trick to Whites, that is to hold ‘Alt’ while you slide your slider… you will see your screen blank out! now, when this happens to find the perfect Whites balance slide your slider until your image nearly disappears completely.

Blacks – same rules apply here as you did with Whites.

Again just be mindful of how your image looks.

The last thing that I’m going to do for this first edit is to just add +10 to my clarity so it sharpens my image up a touch.

If you want to see how your image now compares to what your started out with key in the backslash key which look like so… \

At this stage if you think it’s a bit much then you can pull a few of those edits back a little touch.

I would suggest waiting to just before we switch over to Photoshop to do this as we still have a good bit more to take care of and your image will look different.

Now that those first little steps are complete, hit the arrow beside ‘Basic’ to close it up so you can see better and look down until you see HSL and click on that.

You will see the color sliders now appear as it is in my example image below.

In that you will see ‘Hue’ ‘Saturation’ Luminance’

Car Photoshop Tutorial

Ok, so I’m going to work with Saturation first.

I want to just tone down the colors a little, so look at your image and look for the basic colors, so mines very orange so I’ll be toning that color group down a little, also a little blue as it’s in my car and shadow.

My settings are as follows.

Red -30

Orange -20

Yellow -10

Green -100

Aqua -100

Blue -100

Purple -100

Magenta -100

Now these are “my” settings, so do what looks good for your image! you just want to drain a tiny bit of color out of the colors.

I was able to go to -100 with Green downwards because the was practically zero in my image apart from my shadows.

Yours probably will be very different to mine, and as we talked about we can always go back and re-edit later.

Lightroom Car Edit

Next, we’ll go into the Luminance panel and I’m just going to do kinda the reverse of what I just did to add a little bit more color into Red Orange and Yellow only not as harsh.

So I’ll just up them +10 and leave the rest.

Photoshop Edit

Now I’m just going to adjust the composition of my image, I feel like there’s too much on that right hand side.

Press (R) on your keyboard to open up your Crop Tool.

You can now adjust the edges to where you want them to be, and if you click the top of the barrier you can rotate it as well!

Lightroom

Photoshop

Sharpening is next I feel, I think I’d like to add some here just to make it look a little more dynamic or whatever.

I’m just going to close the panel as we did with ‘Basic’ and then open up ‘Detail’

Lightroom Edit

You will now see in the panel two main options.

They are…

Sharpening & ‘Amount’ and Noise Reduction & ‘Luminance’.

Think of these are two sides to a scale, so when you add sharpening you will start to see pixelization which is what noise is.

So the more Sharpening you add, the more you will have to compensate with Luminance if noise starts to appear.

It’s all about finding that balance without the image becoming odd looking.

The settings that I felt worked good for my image were +30 for Sharpening & ‘Amount’ and +15 for Noise Reduction & ‘Luminance’

We are now done with the Lightroom portion of our Tutorial so save up and export your image out ready to be opened in Photoshop.

[See the end of this Lightroom Tutorial if you don’t know how to export yet]

Let’s now open our image up in Photoshop.

File – Open find your image and double click on it.

Photoshop Tutorial Car Edit

Now that I’m in Photoshop I think I’m going to remove my background and replace it with something a little more interesting.

Note: this is only a side option that I have chosen to do, you do not need to do this, so I’m not going to go into detail on this, you don’t have to do this option if you have a cool background, it’s just mine was kinda bland ๐Ÿ™

My thoughts on this is I’m going to leave that first block in the wall so it looks like a little 1 foot sized wall with some sort of epic background. [Check this tutorial out as an example of Photo Manipulation]

So to do this first I’m going to create a duplicate layer of my image.

Photoshop Car Editing

Then open up your Lasso Tool and add 1 to where it says ‘Feather’ to add a little blur to your edges [just under the top menu on the left]

Photoshop Car Editing

Now you just click a long your edge, be creative with your image, make your selection as you think the image would look, so you see in mine I’m kinda drawing the top of the wall.

Photoshop Car Editing

Once you join your selection then press delete on your keyboard to erase that portion of the image.

Photoshop Car Editing

Don’t get the inside of the care as well.

Photoshop Car Editing

Background Replacement

Ok so let’s get back to the main tutorial.

Now we’re going to add a little blur to the background and give the image a bit more depth.

So create a new duplicate layer.

Editing a car background in photoshop

Then go to Gaussian Blur.

Editing a car background in photoshop

Give it a 2 and press OK.

Editing a car background in photoshop

Next, we’ll create a mask by going to Layer – New – Layer Mask – Reveal All.

Editing a car background in photoshop

Now you’ll see the White Thumbnail appear beside your top layer.

Using Black on a soft paint Brush and an opacity of 50% you then start to paint out and blend the foreground in so the car (minus the inside) and the ground in front all comes back into focus.

Editing a car background in photoshop

Now we’re going to add a little bit of a Lighting Effect to the image.

Create another new layer tat we are going to be working on.

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

When you have that layer then we have to fill it with Black, you do this via the Paint Bucket Tool.

When you have that selected, you simply just click on your image to fill the layer with Black.

PS: take note of the direction and angle your light on your image is coming from.

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

Now to create the cool effect.

You will find it in the menu option Filter at the top of your screen.

Go into that and then down to Render.

In Render, you will then find Lens Flare.

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

Now move the lighting effect you see in the middle of your panel to the direction your light is coming from on your image.

When it’s placed you can then move the brightness of the effect up.

I moved mine just up over 100% somewhere round there will be fine because you can always drop the opacity of the actual layer.

when you’re happy hit OK.

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

When that’s all sorted, let’s get a blur on it, same as before let’s go to Gaussian Blur.

Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

A Blur Radius of 35 will look good!

Hit OK when you’re happy.

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

At this stage, we are nearly done, but we have to add a Blend Mode to our lighting Effects Layer.

So in the layers panel on the right hand side you will see the word ‘Normal’

Click that and it will open up a large menu of Blend Modes.

These do various things to the layer so if you want to have a play around for a little bit then go ahead and see what everything does.

But when you do you’re going to want to go back and choose the Screen Blend Mode!

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

This will now make your layer transparent so only the black is removed but the effect is still there!

Lighting Effect in Photoshop

The last thing that I’m going to do with the lighting effect is to position it a little bit better.

So Key in on your Keyboard Alt+T to open up Free Transform.

Then you can move the effect around and change the size and shape of it to whatever you want like mine below.

Free Transform

If you feel your Lighting Effect is a little too strong then as I mentioned you can drop the opacity of the actual layer.

Opacity

Now I’m going to finish up with a few adjustment layers and then one last touch with the brush tool.

To create an adjustment layer look on your layers panel at the bottom and you will see a half circle.

Click that and the menu will appear, this will be done 3 times.

Levels first.

Adjustment Layers

I just moved the middle slider towards the right a little to add a bit more contrast darkening the shadows.

Adjustment Layers

Next Vibrance.

Adjustment Layers

I moved my slider to the right again to add a little bit more color to my image.

Adjustment Layers

Lastly Hue and Saturation.

Adjustment Layers

I moved my slider the tiniest bit to the left toward yellow just to warm my image up a tiny bit more.

Adjustment Layers

Last I created a new layer, enlarged my brush with white as my option and still at 50% and then just click on the left-hand side of my screen to fill that area, then I dropped the layer’s opacity so it blends.

Adjustment Layers

That’s it! your image should look like my image below ๐Ÿ™‚ hope you enjoyed.

Edit Like Damian Pliskoart

How To Add An Extra Smile In Photoshop Using Puppet Warp

Hello again, let’s get going with another awesome Photoshop tutorial.

So I did a tutorial previous called ‘How To Make Someone Look Sad In Photoshop Using Liquify‘ therefore I’m going to flip the script on that tutorial and decide to go the opposite route and add an extra smile to the person this time.

Now I’m sure, plenty of times you have taken photos and either you or someone else in the photo smiled a second too early or stopped smiling a second too late

Thus capturing a somewhat neutral facial expression, you know the one that you can’t quite figure out if they are smiling or not.

I guess kinda like the Mona Lisa.

So now we’re going to look for a professional looking image that falls into that category.

For this, I’ll be going through Pixabay.com, the site I use for free stock.

Another site as well I like to use just so you know is Pexels.com.

These sites are great for free stock, so if you’d like to use them too just know that they’re totally free to use.

If you know any others then please add to the comments as I’m always open for suggestions for free stock sites to expand my variety of images I can use for my work without having to pay big bucks and I’m sure other readers would appreciate your input also.

I would suggest just use an image that has a bit of a slight smile on it.

If the face if highly distorted through emotions then it’s going to be an uphill struggle to set it right and generally in my experience, this type of retouching never really looks realistic.

What we are aiming at here is to go from a slight smile to an extra smile, putting the cherry on top so to speak, you don’t want to move from one extreme to the other when retouching if possible so bear that in mind.

If you had other images similar then you could composite them together but if you’re limited to a few images that are not in the same pose then we want to improve, not totally change.

Anyway, with all that being said let’s get going with the hands-on part of this tutorial.

Ok so let’s take a look at the image I’m going to be using.

As you can see from my image, the model has that Mona Lisa look on her face.

The one were you think, is she just about to smile or has she just finished?!

This we can easily manipulate!

Add a smile with Photoshop

To start we need to select our Lasso Tool, you’ll find that in the Toolbar on the left-hand side.

You can also key in (L) on your keyboard for the keyboard shortcut.

Add a smile with Photoshop

When you have that, click and draw a circle around the model’s mouth just as I’ve shown below, when you do that and release the mouse button the selection will join.

Add a smile with Photoshop

Go to Edit in the top menu and click on copy, you can also key in Ctrl+C to copy for the shortcut.

Add a smile with Photoshop

Now you have your copy made we can run through the exact same action only this time click on Paste or Ctrl+V for the shortcut!

Add a smile with Photoshop

[Just a quick side note on the shortcuts, they are not necessary so don’t try to actively remember them, you will only really be able to do so through repetition…

Yes they are somewhat faster in the long run, but you can happily go through your Photoshop experience never using them as long as you know the fundamentals, which are, where the tools actually are, when you know that

Then you can start to think about keyboard shortcuts, I’ve been doing this for years and I still don’t remember them all so don’t sweat it!]

The next thing that we will have to do and the reason we have to do it is we have to now convert our new layer that you will see appear in the layers panel on the right-hand side above the background layer, is to convert it to a smart object.

So the reason why we must do this is that if you start to warp and change the shape of an image that hasn’t been converted to a smart object then it will start to lose quality and the deterioration will become very noticeable over a few edits.

To do this right click on the top layer, a pop up will appear, scan down it until you see Convert to Smart Object and click on it.

Add a smile with Photoshop

The Tool that I’m going to introduce you to now is a little-known Tool called Puppet Warp!

I think this Tool is awesome! you can get some amazing results when you use this Tool correctly and when it is used correctly, it is used subtly!

If you go too far with Puppet Warp it can look a little bit crazy, but used right it will look great.

So what this Tool let’s you do is to click on specific areas,

Then you can manipulate those areas as if there is some sort of hinge attached to it, pretty cool right!

Open that up as shown below.

Add a smile with Photoshop

You will now see a strange grid appear over your selection that you made.

Take a look at the curious little mouse pointer that you have…

It looks like a tack doesn’t it, well that’s sort of what it is, the areas that you click on will now become the hinge.

So our mission then is to create the curve of a smile, to do this I first clicked on the two edges of the mouth.

But we have to add more because these are not enough to pin the other parts of the lips, if you were to start to try to move things now it just wouldn’t work.

Add another 2 points on the bottom of the bottom lip to split it into 3 parts.

Then click on the three bits of the cupids bow on the top lip, so that’s that little-curved part below your nose.

You can see on my image below exactly where I have placed my points.

Now you can click on the points at the edge of the mouse and start to move them up so that it creates a curve in the mouth so it starts to look more like a smile.

You will have to move the other points as well to compensate most likely, also, if needs are, don’t be afraid to add some extra points.

If you make any mistakes, key in on your keyboard Ctrl+Alt Z to backtrack one step, then you can go at it again until you’re happy.

Add a smile with Photoshop

When you are happy with the mouth, hit return.

Now we are going to work on the eyes, so click on the original background layer and follow the exact same steps with the eyes.

So draw the selection as I have shown below.

Add a smile with Photoshop

But this time create your points on the eyebrows, I did 4 points to split them each up into 3 sections.

This will enable you to manipulate the edges and the center.

Add a smile with Photoshop

I then started to pull the center points up and slightly out away from the center to create a more friendly look.

Don’t go too far with this or your subject may start to look more surprised than anything, just a little touch will do nicely.

Add a smile with Photoshop

So by this stage, we should have the expression that we want, but in the process of making the expression, there will be some little inconsistencies.

As you can see from my image around the nose and under the eyes are very noticeable.

the way we are going to fix this is by using a mask.

The way to create a mask is to click on the layer, then go to Layer – Layer Mask – Reveal All

Add a smile with Photoshop

You will then see a little white box appear next to you images thumbnail when you click this you can then use the Brush Tool to hide what’s on that layer by painting on your image.

Using Black Hides.

White Reveals again.

So paint out those inconsistencies to reveal the background layer.

Add a smile with Photoshop

Another little trick we can do, is to create a brand new layer on top of everything.

Layer – New – Layer then click and drag it to the top.

Add a smile with Photoshop

Then using your Spot Healing Brush Tool paint on the areas and let the computer do the work to complete your image.

Add a smile with Photoshop

Add a smile with Photoshop

Add a smile with Photoshop

Add a smile with Photoshop

Add a smile with Photoshop

How To Make Someone Look Sad In Photoshop Using Liquify

Hi all, today I want to look at how to manipulate faces using Photoshop.

The times that I would use this is when I’m going for a certain look in a composite.

You can imagine that I have to make a poster for a movie or something like that.

So imagine I’ve been asked to do the movie poster within a certain period of time, all the photos had been taken, but not by you unfortunately and there is no time for re-shoots, so you look at the images and you think, they must have been having a right old time while they were taking these photos because most of them are smirking when they’re supposed to have serious or sad expressions on there faces, oh dear!

Well no, not oh dear actually! because we know how to use Photoshop and we’re excellent at it, so no worries at all, we’ll fix those expressions up quick snap and nobody will know any different.

Now I will say that for this we’ll just be using an image of a person smirking and looking softly pleased with themselves, if they have a massive cheesy grin on their face then you would have to look about mixing and matching, replacing parts out of other images of them to get something that you could work with, if you don’t have this option then you’re just out of luck.
But, for this let’s take a look at the types of images that I’m talking about.

Sometimes in Photoshop, we can’t win them all.

But, for this let’s take a look at the type of image that I’m talking about that I’m going to use.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Ok let’s begin…

Let’s create a duplicate layer first that we can work with so we have the original layer intact if anything goes wrong.

So look to the top left of your desktop till you see the word Layer, click on that and then click on Duplicate Layer, press ok.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Now you will see you have a new layer on the right hand side in the layers panel.

Next look to that top menu again, an when you see the word Filter, click on it, and you will then see an option called Liquify. [you can also use the keyboard shortcut if you can remember it, you do this by holding Shift + Ctrl and then hitting X]

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Ok when you are in you want to zoom in, key Z on your keyboard and a magnifying glass will appear, then you just click on your screen to zoom in, then to zoom out hold Alt on your keyboard and click just like you did.

You can also hold the space bar to enable you to click on the screen and drag your image around.

Next we’ll want to use the Warp Tool (W on your keyboard for the shortcut)

Now comes the hard part ha-ha, so the way you use this tool, is you click and drag, so if I clicked on the nose and pulled down, it would pull the nose down with my mouse warping it.

To refine this, the technique I employ, it to click and pull slightly, so just tiny bits at a time.

I use the bracket keys on my keyboard to change the size of my brush head, which will be necessary.

So change the size of the brush head to fit the size of the area that you want to warp.

Ok so to get a feel for the tool, take 5 minutes to play around and when you are done click on ‘Restore all’ on the right hand side to set everything back to normal.

I am now going to do the following, I’m going to start to work on the eyebrows and pull the inner ends upwards little by little.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Next I’ll work on the mouth, and pull it down and in, so use your best judgment and when you are happy click on OK.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

If there’s any little bits that don’t look right, you can simply use the Spot Healing Brush Tool, all you do is just click and paint over the area, but note I said little.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

And that’s it, we have now changed the mood of our subject, you can also go a little bit further and add a little tear like I did, but I’ll let you figure that one out, here’s a hint, I used a PNG file ๐Ÿ™‚ ha-ha enjoy.

Happy to sad using Photoshop

Making Younger People Look Older In Photoshop

Hi all, let’s get going with a brand new Photoshop Tutorial shall we.

So, ya ever wondered what you could look like in a few years? well in this tutorial we are going to be exploring that very subject!

Recently I was having a laugh with a few friends with an app I downloaded over a few drinks, and we were taking photos of each other to see what we would look like at 60, and I have to say, if this app is true then I am going to have to start eating better and doing a bit more working out ha-ha because I was not so impressed to see myself looking back at age 60, like my dads in his 60s and he has def won the competition already for who is better looking at 60 and as I’m very competitive I can’t give my dad this one, so actions must be taken, I’m joking of course.

But what I’m not joking about is how much we are going to ace this tutorial, so let’s get ourselves a suitable image to use, if you wish, you can by all means use one of your own self portraits, but make sure it is good quality, make sure it’s at least 1200px wide and also make sure that it is not very grainy etc. as it will be harder to work with and find images that we can use to composite.

OK to start let’s find out image, so go ahead now and take a few minutes to find something good if you are not using one of your own.

This is the image I’ll be using today and no, it’s not me!

Photoshop Tutorial

Ok now get yourself an image of someone older, you will want to find something as close to your main image as possible, we will be manipulating it a good bit but the closer the better as it will make our job a whole lot easier.

Right so the image below is the image that I have picked, I think I should be able to make it fit ok, if not no huge big deal it’s in the same general(ish) pose and if all fails I can always cut it up and use the liquify tool which let’s me warp and push areas about like clay.

Photoshop Tutorial

Next I want to place the old mans face over my main images face.

So open up your lasso tool.

Photoshop Tutorial

Draw a quick selection around the old man head.

Photoshop Tutorial

Then we are going to copy it.

Photoshop Tutorial

And paste it into our main image.

Photoshop Tutorial

I wanted to flip my image as well once it was pasted in as I felt it would fit better the opposite way around.

Go to Edit – Transform – Flip Horizontal

Photoshop Tutorial

Next, let’s change it to a Smart Object.

This will enable us to change the size of the pasted image without it losing detail.

Right click on the pasted images layer, and then choose Convert to Smart Object.

Photoshop Tutorial

Next drop the layer’s opacity to 50%, which you’ll find just above the layer.

Photoshop Tutorial

Then key in on your keyboard Ctrl T to open up your transform options.

Now you will be able to resize the image by clicking on the little tabs on the middle outside of your image on the top and on the sides, by just clicking and dragging, you can even click and rotate.

Photoshop Tutorial

If needs be you can click the outside edges while holding Ctrl on your keyboard to warp the image a bit more.

Hit return on your keyboard.

Now we’re going to refine this even more but we have to create some guides for us first.

We are going to do this so we can make a real attempt to match the face-up, for this we’ll be using a pretty interesting warp tool that I’ll be showing you how to use in just a little bit.

So go to your old man layer and click on the eye icon beside it to hide the layer.

Then go to View – Rulers if you haven’t it activated already, you’ll know because you’ll see all the numbers like a ruler along the top and the side.

Save up as a PSD to keep your work safe.

Photoshop Tutorial

After we saved up as a PSD you can now re-open your Photoshop file by just double clicking on it if you choose to take a break.

Ok so we now have our rulers ready at the top.

Now click on the rulers and hold, then you are able to just drag down the brightly colored guide that appears, place in the middle of the eyes as a starter.

You will do this another 2 times so that there will be one for the bottom of the nose and another for the mouth.

Photoshop Tutorial

Now you can turn the old man layer back on by clicking the eye icon, change the opacity to 75% so it will be easier for you to see.

Key in Ctrl + T to open up Free Transform, then when you do this look along the top middle and you will see 3 little icons, the first one is the warp tool, so click that to see your onscreen grid gain a few more lines in it, so instead of before you would be able to just click on the edges you can now click on the intersection points and lines and manipulate, and when you do that it will warp your image, so now the goal is to do this and try to get the eyes to match up, the nose and the mouth as best you can.

Even you get 80% the way there you’re golden.

Note: you may have to copy and paste your top image into 2 different parts of the face such as the top part to the bottom of the nose, then the bottom of the nose to the chin etc. to get a better match, my image has a beard so I can get away with it lucky enough.

Photoshop Tutorial

Now you can put your old man layer back up to 100% opacity, and don’t worry it may look pretty strange I’d imagine at this point as it’s probably going to be all warped out of shape but this is fine, as you can see from mine above it’s pretty close to the original.

Now we’re going to create what is known as a layer mask, to do this go to Layer – Layer Mask – Hide All.

When you do this you will notice that a small black thumbnail will appear to the right-hand side of your layer that is in the layers panel on the right, and your entire image now will have disappeared.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

So the technique here is if you’re not in the know is… when you use a paintbrush with white after you’ve clicked on the little thumbnail beside your images layer on the right is you now can paint the image back over the top and when you paint with black it will hide the image, so you can see that using different types of brushes and brush capacities you could get some interesting results with blends etc.

Now activate your Brush Tool as shown below.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Further down from that you will see black and white boxes overlapping each other, when you double click those you will be able to change the color to whichever color you want, also you will see two very small icons above it, one in the shape of the two boxes and a curved double sided arrow.

The double sided arrow allows you to flip between black and white and the other reverts whatever colors you have been using back to black and white.

Ok next, let’s drop the opacity of the Brush down to about 50% just to start with, but as I want to strengthen the blend I will change it back up to near 100% and back and forth to what opacity fits the situation.

This will take a little bit of time to develop the feeling for this but it will develop and probably sooner than you think without even noticing.

The last thing before we start to blend is to change the brush to a soft head, your brush may already be like so but let’s just check and get familiar with that option anyway.

So at the top left, just under ‘Edit’ you will see the circle brush indicator with a number that indicates size, choose the first brush on that list.

Side note, you can change your size as you work simply by hitting the bracket keys on your keyboard, and when you hold space you can click and drag around the images freely without interrupting your current work.

Next up, we’ll be creating the blend, this will not be easy… so prepare ๐Ÿ™‚

Ok so this portion of the tutorial I’m going to talk you through what I did, this going to take a little bit of trial and error work and a little bit of artistic license but I have faith in you and I’m defiantly sure you will get a good result in the end.

Here I started to bring the image back by painting with the shape of my subjects face, so in short, I followed his features and continued to do so throughout.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

I wasn’t happy with the position of the mouth, I felt it was low, so I created a new duplicate layer, moved the mouth up into place.

I then used the same Hide All technique I began to erase the areas that weren’t necessary, this got a little confusing at the beginning so I had to just work with it until I see something start to come out of the mess that looked good.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Working back and forth with my brush sizes and opacity my image started to come together, as yours should be by now too, granted it won’t be perfect yet.

When I was working with mine I noticed that the right-hand side of subjects face wasn’t really matching up too good as it had a very dark shadow on it.

So to counter this I decided I was going to make a duplicate and flip it because I liked what I was seeing on the left-hand side.

So I joined my two layers into a group, I did this by clicking on the bottom, then I held Shift and clicked on the top one, then I held Ctrl and hit G to group them.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Then I duplicated the group, and Flipped it Horizontal as shown below.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Then that was ready I used the arrow keys on my keyboard to move the new piece across until I was happy with it’s position.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Then it was a matter of creating a hide all mask again to continue with my blending.

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young To Old

I then got to a point were I was starting to really like my results, I felt they were pretty close but I also felt that they weren’t exactly matching up completely, I knew this would happen as it is standard, we are only about 2 3rds the way in, so when you start to see bits that don’t match exactly don’t worry, what comes next is a little trick I learned when I started out to cover up these little inconsistencies.

Ok so just like we did before when we grouped our layers with the masks attached, highlight your layers again only this time click on the bottom one and then the top, holding shift of course.

Only this time I right clicked on the layers and then clicked on Merge Layers.

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

You will now see that all the layers you highlighted have now collapsed into one image.

Next we’ll add noise to this, so go to Filter – Noise – Add Noise and add about 10%

The amount may be different as your image may be smaller or bigger than mine, so have it so that it is similar to what I have, so just a slight grain will do ok.

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

Next we’re going to smooth out what we just did by again going to Filter – Noise only this time we’ll choose Dust & Scratches so we can bring the grain back a little bit and in doing so your image should now be fused together somewhat.

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

The very last thing I did and this is only an option and not necessary was to create a new duplicate layer of my original image and paste it on top of everything, then I dropped the layers opacity and using my mask technique just removed areas around the eyes and inner face etc. until I was happy, which I was!

Check out my result below, and I hope you get something similar, if not, keep working at it you’ll get it!

Photoshop Tutorial Young to Old

How To Make Anybody Bald Using Adobe Photoshop

Hi everyone today for my Photoshop Tutorial I’m going to be taking a look at how to make anyone bald using Photoshop, I was inspired to do this by recently watching superman again with Lex Luther, and I was thinking that for an actor, wouldn’t it be great to have a portfolio of Images of yourself in different costumes etc, so that if you were to use it to try to get a job the employer could see you in different looks…So then I thought! ah! haircuts as well would be great, and as you well know, unless you’re going to take a few years or buy some expensive wigs to achieve a portfolio with all these different haircuts such as the one I’m thinking of, then why don’t we just use the power of Photoshop to do it for us, and if we do it in a realistic way, which is how I’m going to show you then that would be great. Who knows they may even ask how they got so many different haircuts, and the person with the portfolio could say I got this awesome photoshopper to do it for me you should hire them if you need some Photoshop work done.Ok so for this one, of course, we’ll be making someone bald as the title says.
So let’s get ourselves a suitable image.
Here is mine.
Photoshop

So the first thing that I’m going to do is to make a Duplicate Layer.

Go to Layer – Duplicate Layer

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Then grab yourself the Lasso Tool so that we can make a loose selection around the head, nothing crazy, just a quick one.

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Photoshop

Once you do that, copy it and paste it.

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Photoshop

It should be on top but if not you can simply click on the layer over on the right hand side there and drag it to the top, easy.

Photoshop

Ok, now click on the duplicate layer so that it’s activated on your layers panel, so that’s the same place I was talking about for moving the copy and pasted layer.

Go to Layer – New – Layer

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Cool, now select your Clone Tool and then we’ll talk about how to use it and what all it does.

So you can either press S on your keyboard or have a look below on the left to see where it is.

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At the top bar roughly in the middle there will be a little drop box there that you can click on to change up a few options if you wish, we do, change it to ‘All Layers’

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When you do this turn your attention back to the layers on the right-hand side, you’ll see there are these curious little eye icons beside the layers, well by click these on and off by just clicking on the eye or the box when it’s away you will either hide and bring back the layers visibility.

So for now, click the top layer off, then make sure to click onto the second layer down as shown below.

Then with this tool, you press and hold Alt on your keyboard and choose an area that would look good as a replacement over the head, you can do this with several areas to mix and match as I have done below.

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Next, you’ll have to find an image that we can use to replace the hair with.

So now you’ll be looking for an image of a person with no hair that you could use to match your image, this may take you several times for finding this image, keep in mind you need to find the same angle and lighting if possible, angle over lighting mostly, we can fix the lighting if we have to!

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It’s not exactly going to fit perfectly right away but I’m going to show you a little trick [aka standard Photoshop technique] to get the heads to match.

Now we have our Image, which I’m sure you have to take a few minutes to find as we have to have something that at least 80% fits the lighting and position of the head, so first I have to create a selection again, so remember to create a selection around the head exactly like we did before, grab your Lasso Tool, make your quick selection around the head that you are going to be using to replace the hair, and copy and paste just like before only this time paste it into your main image.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Now we have to start to adjust the new image.

So key in on your keyboard Ctrl T to activate Free Transform, when you do this you will notice marking appear around the image, this will let you adjust the size of the image, don’t bother with the markings on the edge of the image, use the ones on the top and side middle.

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If you have to you can go to Edit – Transform – Flip Horizontal

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Next, you’ll probably find it hard to see of course because your image is at full capacity, well to sort this out you have to drop the opacity of the layer, so what’s that mean? well in case you don’t know opacity just means how see through the image is, so when you click on the layer over on the right-hand side there just above it in the layers panel you will see the word ‘Opacity’ with 100% beside it, so click on that and you will be able to lower the opacity to something more manageable to place your image.

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When you’re done and you’ve almost got it lined up you can return the opacity to 100%

So take note, you want to match up at least the bottom of the forehead with the eyebrow, a little higher is fine too, you also want to match up the bit at the back of the head that contacts the top of the ear too, the res we can play within a little bit, but for now we’re going to get rid of the background on that layer with the bald head.

So instead of using the Lasso, we’re going to use the Polygonal Tool instead.

The way to use this tool is to just to continue to click drawing a selection around the head following it, then at the end, you click where you started to create the selection.

Make sure to create your selection on the outside of the head so you are selecting the background.

Photoshop

Photoshop

When you’re happy then go to Layer – Layer Mask – Reveal All

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when you do this you will see a little thumbnail or a white rectangle appear next to your images layer on the right.

Click on the white rectangle, then click on the brush tool with black selected and paint the background out. [note that if you change to white on your brush tool doing the same action your will ‘paint’ the image back in, so black hides, white reveals.

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Cool, now we’re getting close, by now your image should be looking just like my image below does with the replacement head over the top of the original.

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Now we have to make a selection of the original face, because we are going to paste this on top of everything, so this will be the very top layer, if you have to click and drag it to the top then all good, but just make sure it’s the top layer.

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Then hide the layer that had the original head copy we made at the start so that the only layers you see if the face, and top of the head layer above the cloned layer of the background, you may need to use the reveal all technique on the cloned background part in case we have parts of the head missing.

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Then I’m going to hold Shift, Ctrl and Alt on my keyboard and press E to create a stamp of the full image.

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When I do that I’m going to fix up the last little shape issues using the liquefy tool.

Go to Filter – Liquify

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Zoom in using the magnifying glass, you’ll see it’s an icon on the right.

Then above that, there is a little icon of a finger that looks like it’s smudging something, click it, and adjust it to similar size brush to head ratio that I have below, you can do this using the bracket keys on your keyboard.

The just subtlety click and drag the areas out, practice a little first to get a feel for it, then just hit Restore all on the right to reset and start again.

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Click OK when you’re done ๐Ÿ™‚ and you’re complete.

So my image was simple enough, as you get better you can apply this to more challenging ones if needs be.

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Create A Digital Painting From Your Photographs In Photoshop

Hi all, today I’m going to do something a little more artistic over Photographic in Photoshop.

Recently I have been doing a few projects for a company that took a load of images that they weren’t particularly happy with so someone in the company decided that they would change their images out to a digital painting effect for their poster.

So they asked me would they have to do this from scratch as in use Photoshop to use the paint tools to make a copy as you would in real life with brushes and paint etc, and to that I said even better, I can take your images that you’re not happy with and convert them to the exact effect that they’re after and at the same time enhance the colors also without if looking over saturated as they would have looked previous with the standard mobile phone taken grainy images.

Now if you I use Photoshop CS6! so this will work for any Photoshop program but the new Photoshop CC that you have to subscribe to has a feature on it called ‘Oil Paint Effect’ also as far as I know there may be some plugins for the likes of CS6 too I’m not 100% to be honest so if you know about this plugin let us know in the comments section but for me I don’t have it unfortunately for me.

I think that doing it the way I’m about to show you anyway is better as you can make it unique to yourself instead on relying on Presets which is great for standard color edits and effects but when it comes to the likes of this I feel a combination of the two is probably the best when dealing with time constraints.

You can apply the Preset Effect and then go back in after increasing or decreasing the presets and apply what you know to improve areas and add your own twist and personal touch to it.

So with that being said let’s look at the image that I’m going to use today to convert to the digital painting effect.

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Ok, so the first thing that we must do is to create a Duplicate of the first background layer so that we have a backup and something behind our image in case we want to lower the opacity at the end.

To do this go to Layer – Duplicate Layer and hit Ok when prompted.

Photoshop

Next, I’m just going to give that layer a slight blur, nothing crazy just subtle.

I think for my image 2 should do the trick, your image may be different depending on the size of it so whatever you choose to depend on your image anywhere from 2-3 should be more than enough.

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Now for the fun part!

Ok let’s grab the Smudge Tool!, you will see it in the example image below, it looks like a hand smudging something with it’s finger, just like you would do to a drawing or whatever.

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Next right click on your screen so the brush head options appear.

You’ll see a whole heap of these, you want to grab the 11th brush head, it’s called the ‘Round Fan Stiff Thin Bristles’

In the menu part at the top right you will see ‘Strength’ you want to change that to about 70% I’d say, I guess a range from 70-80% would work fine for an all-round pressure but you can move between to test your results and see what it looks like on your image.

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Now you will be doing two things extra while working.

  1. You’ll be zooming in and out and you go along for more detailed areas.
  2. Holding the space bar will allow you to click and drag around your screen uninterrupting your work, then you just release the space bar to go back to your Smudge Tool.

As you go along use your Bracket Keys on your keyboard to change the size of your Brush Head for more detailed areas such as the eyes.

Take note! paint in the direction of the object, so paint with the shape, for example with the hair you would make long broad strokes following the direction of the hair flow, you also what the streaks of the brush visible a little bit to make it look even more painted.

Photoshop

Photoshop

And that’s it, take your time and do a few to get used to it.

You can apply various other edits to your images like a bit of Vibrance or whatever, you can even lower the opacity of your layer a little bit if you feel it is too strong, in the end, you should end up with something like my image below.

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Eye Reflection Manipulation In Photoshop

Hi, today I have a nice chilled Photoshop Tutorial for you, today we’re going to be creating an Eye with an interesting Reflection in it, this is a cool way if you are creating Manipulations for posters etc. to create a little drama, or a suggested memory or whatever, it’s just a nice way to add a bit of story in a clever and interesting way.

So to start first we must get our Images.

You can if you want to get an image of an eye itself, there’s plenty out there in the free stock sites such as Pixabay like I use, or you can get just a picture with a cool expression to go with an idea you have that you like and then use Photoshop to change the size, this has to be done in a certain way using ‘Place’ to keep the image from getting pixelated but we’ll get to that in a second and also note that the starter image must be HUGE if you are going that route for the eye to look good and perfectly clear when you change the size so do check that when you change the size, if it looks blurry at all in any way then I would perhaps suggest just sticking with a good sized stock image of an eye.

The size of the image for the eye I choose was 4000 Width by 2394 in Height and was the largest I could get.

The second image can just be a normal size 2000 Width or whatever.

So find yourself an interesting image that you can use for the reflection.

Below are the images that I have decided to choose, I think it will go very well with the weird Pug image I’m going to use.

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Photoshop

Right now we have our images let’s get to work.

First, create a new file.

Go to File – New.

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We are going to pick a preset and that should be Web, then change the size to 1280 x 1024, give it a name and hit OK.

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Next, we are going to ‘Place’ our image as I mentioned before, the reason I place the image is that it converts the image to a smart object, when the image is converted to a smart object it means that you can change the size without it losing quality.

So go to File – New – Place

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Find your image and open it, then you will most likely have to adjust the size.

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So hold Ctrl and use the plus and minus keys on your keyboard to zoom in and out so you can adjust, and when you go to change the size hold Shift and Alt to it remains the same dimensions as you scale it up, this is known as ‘Constraints’.

Before you click OK you can click on your image and position also, so mix the two until you get the image exactly how you’d like it.

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The second one we can do that all in a little bit so for now just place it and adjust the image to a reasonable size.

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N3ext drop the opacity of the layer to about 50-75% depending on what it looks like from your side, you must be able to see the eye, below you can see where to find opacity for the layer.

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Next, we are going to hide the layer by creating a mask.

So go to Layer-Layer Mask – Hide All

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When you do that you’ll see the image disappear and a curious little black thumbnail appears beside that images layer.

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Well what you can do with that is paint white on it using a paintbrush to reveal the images again, make sure to change the opacity of the brush to 50%, you’ll see that on the top menu bar this time under ‘Window’, you change the colors back and forth from black to white on the bottom left-hand side, you’ll see two squares and a curved arrow above them, when you click on that arrow it will flip the colors.

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Now change the size of the brush head to the size of the eye, you do this by tapping on the bracket keys on your keyboard.

Then place your brush centered over the iris and start to click until you see the image appear, remember not to go too far, just one or two will do for the start, then you repeat only this time make your brush smaller and so on until you get to the iris itself which you’ll want to be completely black.

Drop your brush to about 25% and start to remove the excess outside of the eye, especially around the top lid because there will be a shadow there.

Then you can change back to black and start to add in on the whites of the eyes at a really low opacity, 10% perhaps, just whatever looks good.

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When you are happy with how it looks right click on the layer, then look for rasterize layer in the pop-up.

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Then we’ll change the levels a little bit.

Go to Image – Adjustments – Levels

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You’ll only want to work with the middle tab and the one on the right on that middle histogram.

Drag both slightly toward the left.

Click OK and you’re done.

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Photoshop

How To Create Customized Brushes In Photoshop The Practical Way

Hello there and welcome to my Photoshop Tutorial on how to make Brushes in Photoshop the practical way.

So to begin with I want to do a little intro for this, so if you don’t know how to create brush tools then this will be a very very good start for you, if you already do know how to create brush tools then maybe this will be of use to you as you may not have ever done things this way, so at the start when I didn’t really know how to use all the ‘advanced’ techniques in Photoshop I’d apply the practical thinking that I had developed doing Art, so I’d see images in Art and when I was trying to copy these images or whatever, not knowing the technical way to do it I would just make it up, so I just applied this thinking to my Photoshop work.

It started with doing hair, I tried all the different ways I was taught on how to fix up hair the technical way and I found that a lot of these were a waste of time for the work that I did, it maybe worked for one image and the very next image it wouldn’t work at all.

I started thinking surely there is a more practical way to do this, and that’s when I applied what I was talking about.

So the way I would do hair if I had to crop an image out is I would crop the easy bits as normal then I’d crop around the hair fitting it all in.

Then I’d quickly mask out the background with the mask biting into the hair to completely remove the background.

With that being done I’d then rebuild the hair using my Brush combined with the Clone Stamp Tool, I wouldn’t have just one Brush either, sometimes I’d use several, just whatever it took to get the job done even it was through a good bit of Trial and error but of course over time I got better and better to where now I’m very quick at this seemingly impossible task that originally I thought it was when I started out.

Ok so with all that being said let’s see how I would go about this.

First imagine we have a job to do, which is to cut a person out from the background just as we talked about above.

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So as you can see from this image there is a lot of stray hairs and it looks like it would be impossible.

Now I’m not going to show you how to do this here as this is about creating the Brush so check out the link below to get the idea.

My Solution to Cropping Long Hair in Photoshop

With that Tutorial, I used a Preset Brush and built the hair up a bit by bit but there are ways to do it using larger Brushes.

Ok so what I’m going to be looking for here is an image that is similar to the image above in regards to the hair shapes, you don’t have to do whole huge areas you can take a little bit at a time, like that hair fold on the right-hand side of the models head.

[Take Note: you will not be able to get close to those stray hairs when you make your final image, the idea is to get close and to have it looking presentable and realistic, we’re not trying to copy, but more give out best impression]

So using whatever stock source you use, I use Pixabay look for a stock image of a model with similar hair on a White to Grey background and you don’t have to get one with the same hair color, in fact, the darker the better.

At the start, this may take a little bit of time but over time you’ll end up with a whole bunch of these saved.

Also, try to get some sort of studio shot and not a stylized one.

I would also advise you to get the image as large as you can so that you get as much detail as possible.

Like this one below.

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Next, we’ll look at how I create the Brush exactly.

Right, so now we have our Image and we’re happy with the quality and size etc. etc. we can now start to play around with it and try to get the best Black & White image we can.

Now when I say Black and White I don’t mean in the traditional sense of the Photographic phrase, I mean I want a complete Black to White contrast between the hair and the background with no color or weird Pixelization around it, that’s why you don’t have to just settle on the first image you come across you can try out many different images and as said eventually when doing this kind of work you will end up with a load of customized Brushes.

So the first step that we have to take is to make a duplicate layer by going to Layer – Duplicate Layer as shown below.

Photoshop

Next, we’re going to have to start preparing our image by using Levels, you find Levels in Image – Adjustments – Levels

Now if you haven’t used Levels before, when you look at it you will see the graph in the middle, that’s the one that looks like a lot of little mountains, under that Graph there’s the three little slider indicating Dark which is the left one, Mid-tones is the middle one of course and the third is Lights.

So what you do is you start to pull the Darks and the Lights towards the center.

You do this for a little bit to you get to the point where the background is either starting to get very light, if you started off with a white background then this will be very easy but say like with my image it’s got a blue tint to it, I’ll have to bring it to the point were I just about retain the detail in the hair, I don’t want to go further!

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Once there then we’re going to turn our image actual Black and White

Image – Adjustments – Black and White

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Now you’ll see a panel appear with color sliders.

Work with these for a little bit keeping in mind the end goal, which is, white background black hair.

So try to make the hair as dark as possible and everything else as light as possible but retaining detail which is the most important part, everything else can be done in little increments so don’t worry about getting it in the first go, generally, we won’t.

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Photoshop

When you’re happy enough it’s time to grab the Brush Tool and using Black then White or whatever you get first, I’m going to start filling in areas like the face with Black and the background with White as best I can.

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Photoshop

Once that’s done, you might need to give it another go with the Levels.

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Photoshop

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When that is all done then it’s time to create the Brush!

Before that, though maybe save your image to PSD format just in case you lose any work, it’s always good to save as you go along just in case something unexpected goes down with your Computer.

Go to File – Save As

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Then save the Format to PSD and choose whatever location on your computer that works for you.

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So to make the Brush Tool you first have to select the area that you wish to use for the Brush, the way to do this is to select your Rectangular Marquee Tool.

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Then click and drag over the area that you want to use for the Brush Tool.

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Once you have that sorted and you’re happy with the selection to go to Edit – Define Brush Preset

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Just name the Brush whatever you want to call it, I would suggest giving it some sort of description that relates to the image, mine was “Left Side Hair Brush”

Then hit OK! and you have your Brush, that easy.

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Now I just select my Clone Tool to use for this imaginary job I was talking about.

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Then at the top left-hand side you will see File and Edit and all those, just below that you’ll see your Clone Stamp options, click into the Brush Heads portion and scroll the whole way done to the bottom until you see the number or the thumbnail of the Brush that you just Created.

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Then you just take a sample.

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Do whatever edits you need to do, blur, blending using masking whatever…

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And there you have it! Hope you get a lot of use out of what you just learned, and remember that it doesn’t have to be just Hair, you can apply this technique to A LOT of different areas!

Photoshop

How To Become A Tone Curve Master In Lightroom

Hi everyone, today I want to take a bit of a detailed look into the Tone Curve in Lightroom.

I believe I have touched upon this subject a few times just as a by-product of the subject that I was actually discussing so I felt the need to make a Lightroom Tutorial on this subject and just throw it out there for you all to learn from and use as a guide if you so feel like it…or are in desperate need for a guide as I have been many many times in the past haha.

Ok so if you open up your Lightroom, don’t worry for right now this second you won’t need an Image just the program.

Take a look at the top right-hand side for the word ‘Develop’ and click on this, in this section is where you will find the Tone Curve.

Photoshop

If you can’t find the Tone Curve then in the Develop section right click over one of the other options and a menu will pop up.

Make sure the Tone Curve has been checked!

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Click on the drop-down box just to check it out, just click on the little arrow to the right of it.

Then you will see a few little sliders and the main box graph with the line running slanted from right top to left bottom.

Lightroom

Now out of the two sections there, the one with the line running through it and the sliders at the bottom, these can be considered the same thing but applied in a different way.

I would consider the main graph to be easier to use but when I say that I mean by like about 1%, for best results and I say that loosely once you know all you need to know with this Tool, then you’ll end up just mixing the two up using whatever at the time you feel is more appropriate which again, I say very loosely.

Ok so one with the description of what the Tone Curve does, so, the Tone Curve is used to adjust the…

Shadows

Mid-tones

Highlights

Making them either Lighter or making them darker without affecting the other two at any which combination, so if I was to adjust my Shadows my Mid-tones and Highlights will be safe so long as I don’t make a huge drastic adjustment which 99.9% of the time you will never do unless it is very specific to what you are doing.

Let’s just do a little demonstration I’d like you to follow along to.

It’s time to grab an image to use, any image will do for this demonstration, you can use yours or any interesting free stock if you desire.

Lightroom

So look at the image above on the Tone Curves the main box with the line running through it, that side of the box works as follows when you shift the values.

At the bottom, it is darker and as you move towards the top it gets lighter.

The same goes for the bottom as well only the bottom is actually marked that you can see it.

Now with your mouse just run your pointer over the line to you see the little diagram it gives you, treat this as a kind of a predictor line as to what will be effected on your graph.

So now you know little basic lets now click on the top slider which is highlights! as you hover your mouse over the slider you will see the same predictor appears on your graph just as before.

And when you move it you will notice the line on the actual diagonal line move just as the predictor pretty much shows you as we just discussed.

By the way, if you want to Reset everything if you have played around with a few of those sliders etc. which you are totally free to do you can just click on ‘Reset’ at the bottom there just beside ‘Previous’

Lightroom

So the general rule is, up is lighter and down is darker and left is darker and right is lighter.

Now you will notice Lights and Darks just below Highlights, consider these the Mid-tones split into two.

So you know that up and down darkens and lightens and left to right darkens and lightens.

Below I have just added a few examples in the Images of each so you can see just to really drum it into you.

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Ok so the next thing that we’ll look at is just above the Region sliders [the ones we just messed with], so at the very bottom of the graph box you will see that there are three slider tabs as well, what these do is, say if you take the furthest one as shown below and move it to the right…

Lightroom

And then you repeat what we just did with the Region sliders again hovering over the highlights slider you will now see that the area prediction will now be a different shape, so as you move these about you will find that you get different results according to how much you have opened or closed those sliders.

So essentially you are making, for example, the Highlights that are affected limited or more in general.

This applies to all the region sliders.

In simple terms if you wanted to affect the shadows just a little you could slide the shadows tab which is the first out of those three, to the left to restrict it, then you would go back to the Region sliders and work that way back and forth etc. and take note that when you restrict one, you will get more range out of the opposite side to it, so with the shadows restricted you will now have more range of the mid-tones.

Ok so let’s now move on to the Point Curve which a lot of people consider being more effective, as I said before they’re both similar, so in the end choose which you prefer and work the other in slowly until you are using both, I guess that would probably be the best way to do it, I think from memory I actually started off with the Point Curve due to coming over to Lightroom from Photoshop and just because you could click and grab and I basically knew nothing of the actual inner workings of the Tone Curve in Lightroom at the start.

The way the Point Curve works is you have to click and hold on the diagonal line on the graph [so that’s the inside of the square]

But first! you must click on the little icon that closes, you will see the little icon to push in the image below, it looks like a little micrograph and when you hover over it, it will say, ‘Click to stop editing Point Curve’

Lightroom

So if I wanted to make my shadows darker I would hover my mouse over the area that I wanted to effect, then I’d click on the diagonal line as shown.

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You can put several points on the line where you want to affect it, and then you can play with it that way, where you put the points on the diagonal line is up to you but I would say that you should think of where you put the points as the same as in those 3 slider tabs in the region sliders.

Then as we talked about before, up is lighter and dragging down adds darkness.

Note as well that you can also click on your point and move it side to side as well, you get a full range out of these points.

If you end up unhappy with where you have placed one of your points then no worries all you have to do in that situation is to right click on the point, then a pop up will appear, in that you will see ‘Delete Control Point’, hit that and the point will now be removed.

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And of course, if you end up with a total disaster which can happen from time to time just click on flatten curve and that will reset your curve back to the start again.

Now we have the basics of the Region Sliders and the Point Curve let’s take a look at a few more in-depth areas of the Tone Curve, to start let’s look at a couple of the Presets they have available for you.

Take a look just to the left of the little Icon we clicked earlier on the Tone Curve Tool and you will see the words ‘Point Curve’ and most likely depending on what you’ve been doing you will see the word ‘Linear’ on that, click on that and you will see there are a couple more options available to your there for your Contrast.

Click the each there now just to see how they affect your Image.

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Then to reset that just click back on to ‘Linear’

This same option is available to you in the Region drop-down also so remember that if you ever use that as your primary editing option.

Next, if you choose your own, as in you make your own points etc. you have the chance to save it if you like it and it works for a certain type of image.

So say you have a whole batch of images but you will be doing them over different dates, so you will get some now, some later when they’re done and some may be at the end of the month, but you figured out a great edit that you really like and that works for a broad range of your images if not them all, then in that Presets box we just looked at you will now see the word ‘Custom’ click on your box again and at the bottom there is an option to ‘Save’

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Then just choose the name that you think best fits [Example: Canyon Shadows] or whatever you are doing and save to the default location.

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Ok, now I’m just going to reset back to Linear.

Next, we’ll take a look at an option called ‘Targeted Adjustment’

So if you look at the top left-hand corner of the Tone Curve box you will see a little circle with a dot in it kinda like a Target funny enough almost as if Lightroom had that planned eh.. lol anyway, the way you use the Targeted Adjustment Tool is first to click on the little target to activate it, you’ll know it’s activated when you see two little arrows at the top and the bottom of it.

Now all you have to do is click on a specific area that you would like to either brighten or darken, so if you look at my image on the car at the minute it I feel that it is very washed out looking and I feel I can strengthen that color.

So all I do is click on the car and either drag up or drag down till I see an improvement if any at all if you have to try a few times then, by all means, go ahead with that and try a few different points.

Then as before if you are unhappy with a certain point for whatever reason you can right click on the point and delete it as we did before, you also have that Flatten Curve option too to reset totally.

Just note that generally when you click on a color and edit it the rest of the image will be edited too, to a lesser extent so just watch out for that also.

Lightroom

You are also able to do this to different areas too, you don’t have to just stick to the one color and that’s that. So, for example, I feel that the edit I just did for my image has blown out the whites a little bit too much, so I’m just going to click on the whites in the sky and see what options I have with the Targeted Adjustment Tool.

Remember for this you have a circular range, so you can move the point up down left or right!

Lightroom

So after trying out a few options, unfortunately, to balance that White in the image it drains the Green of the car and the other images too so we will have to start looking into channels next to enhance colors!

Lightroom

Ok let’s look at Channels! so scan your eyes over to the Tone Curve box and below the graph, you will see the word ‘Channel’, beside that then you will see RGB which stands for Red, Green, Blue. [This is what your image is made up of]

So when you click RGB you will see those colors listed, each of those colors are a different channel, so if you were to click on Red and apply everything that we already learned to the Graph when isolating whatever color that you want to work with then you will be able to brighten, strengthen, make darker etc. etc.

Lightroom

So I talked about how I wanted to make the Green stand out a bit more as I felt it was very saturated.

To do this I will just click on the word ‘Green’ in my menu there.

Because each image is different I will not be able to point you in the direction of exactly what to do so all I can say here is, keep it subtle and with what you know already just trial and error until you find something that you like, sometimes you won’t get a very good result and you will probably have to move to other tools but hey that’s Lightroom for ya and that’s how the games played.

Lightroom

But it’s not all over yet because we can do this to several colors, so when I adjusted my image took on a very Red looking tone, well to fix this sort of thing I suggest just going through each channel until you reach a happy medium.

Lightroom

Another cool way you can try is to create 3 points, so, for example, I could take the top point on the right, create another in the dead center and in the middle of that I can create the third, in the middle, then when I click the middle point and move it about I will only be affecting that exact area, so essentially you are isolating, for example, the shadows or a mixture of 2 elements like the shadows and mid-tones.

You can place these points anywhere you want, I would suggest as I said a second ago just trial and error it and as you gain more experience you will get a natural feeling for this sort of thing and you won’t even really think about it anymore as you work you’ll just do it.

Lightroom

The last thing that I’m going to talk about using the Tone Curve is how to use it for Toning Black and White Images.

So we’ll take this scenario as an example, imagine you have to create an old western look to some images, well the way to do that is to first change the image to Black and White.

To do this, first as you are working along with this Tutorial I’m guessing, so Reset everything by hitting that reset button at the bottom of your screen on the right.

Then convert the image to Black and White by clicking on the little B & W tab just below the Tone Curve Graph, you will see it on the right-hand side of the example image below if you are stuck but I’m sure you’ll see it.

Lightroom

Ok, we’re ready, so a little color theory to get us going on this color toning business.

Old West images are generally brownish yellowish, so how to get this tone onto my image when we don’t have those colors, well we are now dealing with opposites/complementary colors and a little mixing theory.

Mixing first, to get brown you have to cross yellow and red and then darken it, really brown is just dark orange.

So to add this tone first I have to add yellow, well yellow is blues opposite so we click right at the top of the diagonal line and pull it down to add the yellow tone, this works for all the colors, when you do this exact technique for the other two colors you don’t exactly get the opposite you’ll get more of a pink and cyan but using all three you can generally get the color you are looking for.

Lightroom

To finish up I just add that last little bit of Red to push the color towards Brown.

Lightroom

How To Fix Up Hair And Facial Hair In Photoshop

Hi all, today I want to share with you for this Photoshop Tutorial how I would go about fixing up Hair and Facial Hair if I was to go to for Clients in the Fashion Industry who require their Raw Images to be Retouched.

So this is the Model that we will be working with today if you want to follow along find yourself an image that’s something similar to the one that I’ve got.

Photoshop

As you can see from the image above that the model’s hair is very natural at the minute and hasn’t been doctored yet on Photoshop.

So say hypothetically my ‘client’ says to me we would like to ‘tidy’ up certain parts of the hair this is how I would do it to make it a lot more mathematically pleasing so to speak.

Ok so the first thing that I do, and I do this basically Automatically even I don’t need it right away, I’ll create this just in case I ever need to come back to it, so what I do is to create a Duplicate Layer by going to Layer – Duplicate Layer.

Now if I ever need a backup I have my original Layer there for protection.

Photoshop

Now let’s grab the Polygonal Lasso Tool. [Another option here is to use the Pen Tool if you know how to use it or if you just prefer it] but for simplicity of explanation, we will go with the Polygonal Lasso Tool for this one.

Photoshop

Zoom into your image if you want to for a better view of what’s going on, to do this I simply hit on my keyboard the Plus / Minus key while holding Ctrl [You will find the Plus / Minus Key just beside the Delete Key on the right-hand side of your Keyboard if you own a standard keyboard]

Now just click around the areas that you want to tidy up and create a fake hairline around those areas, to move around your hairline as you work without disrupting your workflow you can hold the Spacebar on the keyboard so that the little hand icon appears on your screen then you can click and move around.

So what I’m aiming for here would be like a perfect hairline shape so use your imagination to help you with this, if you’re stuck think of how an Artificial Human/Robots hair line would be like or something along those lines lol I’m just throwing that out there ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop

Ok, so now that we have our Selection we are going to create a New Layer.

Go to Layer – New – Layer

Photoshop

That will now appear on top of all the other layers, you can see this in the example image below to the right named ‘Layer 1’

Now press ‘B’ on your keyboard, this is the shortcut to the Brush Tool, now at the top of your screen you will see all the options such as File and Edit etc.

Well below that is the options for the Brush Tool, look across them until you spot Opacity and drop it down to 25%

Photoshop

Once you do this go to your image and hold Alt to click on it which chooses the color we are going to paint with, then you can paint within the selection of your image the general shape of the beard for safe keeping, I do this because I will always be able now to come back to my work and re-select the beard shape if I need to.

This allows me a few little options here.

It will allow me to create duplicates of the beard shape and edit it a little if I want to create different shapes.

I can also add new fades to each by creating different selections with different gradients of Feather added which mean that you can create cool looking fades at certain points if needs be, so for example if you look at the top part of his head at the crown you will see that the hair is faded back a rather transparent, the feather allows this and if needs be at the time you can do further edits.

Photoshop

Now let’s save up and make sure everything is safe.

Go to File –  Save As

Then in the option box, choose your location, name and in the Format drop-down box choose Photoshop PSD as seen below.

Photoshop

OK so let’s start working on the settings that we are going to use for the hair.

So in one of my other Photoshop Tutorials I showed you a practical way to create a Brush that we are going to use to simulate the hair.

I would suggest that you take a look at these tutorials if you want to make more realistic/larger edits with different variations but for now we are just going to use a preset brush, so to find this brush open up your brush tool by clicking on the icon on the left or by simply pressing [B]

Photoshop

Now as you can see from the example image below I have my options open for what brush head I want to use, in case you can’t find how to get into that it is the second icon across from the brush icon and under ‘Edit’.

So click on that, then at the bottom of that you will see all the different little brush head options, scroll down those until you see the one called ‘112’ when you left your mouse cursor over it for a couple of seconds, it will say ‘Dune Grass’

Photoshop

Next, we are going to start tweaking the setting for this brush so we get a more random pattern once we start to paint on to our actual image.

So this brush will already come with its own preset options but we need to change them as they don’t just work the best for this image.

To open up these options you have to click on the little icon just beside the icon that we clicked on to find the brush heads we were after, it’s just to the right of that and looks like a folder with three little brushes in it just under the word ‘Image’

If you are totally stuck you can just go to Windows – Brush or hit F5 on your keyboard.

Photoshop

Photoshop

So just to start to uncheck all the boxes.

Photoshop

Then let’s just create a new layer to work on.

Layer – New – Layer

Photoshop

The first set of setting that I want is in the Shape Dynamics and they are as follows…

Size Jitter 100%

Control Off

Minimum Diameter 0%

Angle Jitter 5%

Control Off

Flip X Jitter Checked

Flip Y Jitter Checked

Brush Protection Unchecked

Photoshop

Cool, next we are going to go to Scattering.

Make sure Both Axes are checked

Increase the Scatter to 35%

Control Off

Count is set to 1

Count Jitter 0%

Control Off

Photoshop

Ok next let’s take a look at the spacing for the brush, for this I would suggest looking at the actual hair that you are going to be working with and using that as your reference point.

So right at the top of those options, you will see Brush Tip Shape.

At the bottom, you will see ‘Spacing’

Adjust this to whatever fits the model you are using, for me the magic number was 10%.

The last thing to do here was to make sure to check Smoothing on the same list of Shape Dynamics and Scatter etc.

So with this all sorted now all that’s left to do is to create our own Brush Preset, so take note that you can do this with any of the brush presets that Photoshop provides, you can even do this to random Brushes you download from the web, it’s all very much modifiable which is awesome!

Photoshop

Ok so to create the brush preset on your brush options panel you will see there is a little icon at the top right-hand side, it will look like a little downward pointing arrow with a few lines to the right-hand side of it.

When you click that ‘New Brush Preset’ will appear at the top of the drop down box that appears.

Photoshop

when you click that another box will appear enabling you to name your brush with I just names Dune Brush 1 which was the automatic name, but take note of its number because this is how you’ll actually find the brush, and the number given to our new brush is ‘111’

click OK.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Save up, next we are going to start applying this brush and filling out the areas with hair we want to be sorted.

Ok so now we are going to start to use our Brush Head.

But we are not going to use it with the Brush Tool funny enough! there’s a whole other trick to this and this is where the real magic happens with Photoshop.

The first thing to do is to open up the Magic Wand Tool.

You can also use the keyboard shortcut of (W)

You will see both below in the example image!

Photoshop

Now you need to make sure that you are going to be on the correct layer.

So look to your layers panel.

You want to select the layer with the beard shape on it, you will see in the example image below mine if called ‘Layer 1’ I’d image due to you following this Tutorial that yours will be the same, if not just choose the second layer down from the top.

When you have that sorted and you’re on the correct layer then using your Magic Wand Tool just click on your image where the beard shape is and you will now have the shape selected.

Just as a side note, there will be a hard edge to your beard but don’t worry if it looks harsh at the start, I have a solution for that, that will make it look a lot more realistic and easy on the eye.

The look I want to go for is the week-old trim, not the fresh that second out of the chair look.

Photoshop

Now we are ready to start adding our hair.

Ok so the first thing to do with this is to click the little Eye Icon on the layer with the Beard Shape, you will see it just to the left of the layer, that will turn the layer off.

Then click on the layer above that which was the New Layer we created earlier.

Photoshop

Next zoom in, you can use whatever way to zoom in you like, the way I did it was to hold Ctrl on my keyboard and then hit the Plus and Minus keys also on the keyboard just to the right and beside the Delete Key.

Photoshop

Now is the magic part.

As I said we don’t use the Brush Tool for this! Instead, we use the Clone Stamp Tool!!!

The way to use this is quite simple, firstly activate it by clicking it if you know where it is or keying in on your keyboard (S), you’ll see where to find it below anyway.

Photoshop

Then choose your brush, mine was right at the bottom of the brush head options ‘111’ yours should be too.

Photoshop

Next, we hold Alt on the keyboard and then click on an area close to the area that you want to paint over, you want to choose an area that is similar or is the way you want the beard to look.

Once you do that you can start to paint on to the areas you want covered and you will see that you are actually painting the area that you sampled, but with a twist, that being the Brush Head you are using!

Photoshop

when done you and hit Deselect [Ctrl + D]

Photoshop

For now, your beard will look very harsh but we are going to fix this up very nicely and have it look very realistic!

Photoshop

Set your Layers opacity to 80%, you will see this in the Layers panel beside the word ‘Normal’ on the right.

Now with your Magic Wand Tool Click on the screen outside of the beard.

Photoshop

Then go to Select – Inverse so the selection only covers the beard itself.

Photoshop

The next part is to use Refine Edge, you can see it at the top of your screen roughly in the middle, click on that.

Photoshop

The settings that I want to use for mine are as follow [Note: yours may differ so go with your gut and what feels right]

I want Smooth to be 20

Feather to be 2px

Zero for contrast

Shift Edge should be minus [Note minus so you are moving the slider to the left] until it is -10%

Photoshop

Now you can hit Ok and then Deselect.

Photoshop

Next, we are going to create a mask.

You do this by going to Layer – Layer Mask – Reveal All

Photoshop

You will now see a little white box in that layers thumbnail in the layers panel again to the right-hand side.

Photoshop

Now as before but with the Brush Tool Now (B) choose your Hair Brush Head again.

Photoshop

Now as we did before with the Clone Tool we are going to apply the Brush Head again only this time just concentrate on the hard edges.

So go along all those hard edges and get right of them by continuously click with the mouse, remember to keep changing the size of your Brush with the plus and minus keys as we did before and if you want to move around your image hold the Space Bar and click and drag before releasing and continuing on with the work.

Use your best judgement to make this look real or at the least pass.

Photoshop

When I was done I dropped the opacity once more to 50% from 80%, I did this only because I felt it would benefit my image, yours may not need this.

And we’re done! Hope you learned a lot ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop

Photoshop

How To Create A Hair Brush The Practical Way In Photoshop

Hey, and welcome to this Photoshop Tutorial

This tutorial will be part of a more broader set of Tutorials that will be connected and will come after this one.

Also for this practical way I’m going to show you, this doesn’t just work with hair, in fact, this technique will work with pretty much anything if the basic fundamentals line up.

So what are they? the basic fundamentals I mean…

Well, take a look at the Image below.

Photoshop

What do you notice about this image in terms of the hair? well, the hair is on a [pretty much] white background.

This means that we can use this to our advantage due to the contrast.

Note: If the hair is on anything other than a White(ish) or as close to White then this technique will not work.

So right now your exercise is to find a similar image on a Free Stock site such as Pixabay as I use all the time and then get yourself an image that is similar to mine, remember that there must be the contrast between the hair and the background.

Ok, so I’d imagine that you have your image and the exercise was successful and you’re ready to go?! good!

Next go to your image and find a suitable part on the hair that will work for the type of hair that you are trying to fix up, so for the image that would like to fix up I’ll be dealing with very straight short hair so I’ll want to find an area on the models hair that I could use.

The same idea would go for curly hair etc.

Now we have to create the contrast between the hair and the background.

The way to do this is through Levels, you will find Levels in the top menu, so go to…

Image – Adjustments – Levels

Photoshop

When Levels is open you will see three little sliders in the Input Levels Histogram.

Grab the center one and pull it toward the right until you see the hair turning black but don’t pull it all the way to the right you still have to leave a little bit of room to compensate for the white background so to do that you now pull the little slider tab on the right towards the left a little bit till you see a good contrast between the Black and White so that there is not that much if any color left, if there is don’t worry about it too much because once you create the brush that will disappear so a little noise is good here and there.

And just a note on Noise and what it is, if you ever hear the word Noise coming up in Photoshop related subjects then know that it is Pixelization, you can see it in my image below with the areas of the hair that’s Blue and Red, so anyway once you get to a point were your image looks something similar to mine you are good to go.

Hit OK.

Photoshop

Next, grab the Rectangular Marquee Tool that you will find on the Toolbar on the left-hand side as shown in the image below.

You will require no Feather for this as you will see on my example image it is set to zero, if you don’t know what Feather is, it is an area on the outside of the selection that when selected will be faded, so the more you add to Feather the more faded it will be.

Next you’re going to click and drag over an area that you think you can use for your Brush, for mine I want an area around the outside were I am able to see a good amount of the hair strands, once you are happy with an area then as stated click and drag over it with the Selection Tool.

Photoshop

Next, you’re going to make a copy of the selected area by simply going to Edit – Copy and then Edit Paste so the selection ends up on its own layer.

So save up, go to File –  Save As and look for the option PSD, just bear in mind also, that you can make several of these if you wish to try out different patterns!

Now we have our area copied and pasted it’s time to tidy it up a little bit to remove access areas and parts that are a little bit more edged than we would like it to be.

What I suggest doing here is to click on the pasted element and to move it to an area that has a white background, even you have to create a new file just for this part then all good there’s no problem there, it will already be copied and all you’ll have to do it to just paste it as you did before with File -Paste, but however you do it we need to tidy it up unless you got super lucky!

So what I generally do it to just take my Eraser Tool with 100% Opacity, you will see in my example image below that my Opacity was set to 58% from a previous Workflow so I had to boost it back up to 100% so just in case give that a quick eye and check that it is 100%.

Then all I do is I just start to erase out areas I think are not needed and try to use a bit or Artistic license to make it look kind of real.

Photoshop

Now that, that is complete I’m going to create a Duplicate Layer so that I can create a little bit extra on to the back end of the hair, you may not need to do this depending on how your image came out, you also don’t have to use the same element of hair you can stick another area of the hair on to this if you’d like.

Photoshop

For mine I just created and duplicate and keying in Ctrl + T I Free Transformed it and flipped it round so that it joined on to the other end.

Photoshop

Then once I was happy with the placement I used my Eraser Tool Once again, but this time with a lowered Opacity, so I moved it from 100% down about half (you don’t have to be exact) and then I just blended in the areas where the two bits of hair met, again you don’t have to be super exact because when you use this you will be able to do various blends and fix-ups.

Photoshop

Next click on your layers and highlight them both, the way to do this is to click on the bottom one (no particular order actually) then hold shift on your keyboard and click on the Top Layer, then the two hair layers will be highlighted, you will now be able to right click on whichever one and then click on Merge Layers to join them.

Photoshop

Next select the hair with your Rectangular Selection Tool again but this time hold shift so that it creates a perfect square.

If your image is not perfectly in the middle of the square then just hit your arrow keys on your keyboard to shift it about until it is.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Now we are going to create out Brush Tool!

with the hair selected go to Edit – Define Brush Preset

Photoshop

Give it an appropriate name and click OK and the Tool Is created!

Photoshop

To test it out all you have to do is create a new file or you can just for testing out sake paint over the image that you already have up.

Anyway, so you selected your Brush Tool by going to the sidebar on the left-hand side and clicking on the Brush Tool as shown below.

Photoshop

Now at the very top of all your Tool Bars you will see some options, under Edit you will see some Brush Icons that you can click on, click on the second one over to open it up, the scroll the whole way to the bottom and you will find your Hair Brush Tool that you just created.

Photoshop

Then just paint as normal with your Brush Tool and try it out to see what effect you get.

Photoshop

There is a lot more that can be done to the Brush but this is just the bare basics, and keep in mind if you can silhouette it you can make a Brush out of it!

Check out my quick little example of what you can now do combining this Brush with the Clone Stamp Tool below.

Photoshop

Photoshop

How To Remove Fringing After Cropping Hair In Photoshop

Hi everyone, hope you are all well and ready for some Photoshop-style learning!

So for this tutorial, we are going to take a look at removing Fringing, so what is Fringing???!

Well, take a look at the Image below.

Photoshop

So as you can see with this image I have a large portion of background that I would like to remove, so there are many ways to do this but the main problem generally is the hair, this is a whole different technique/subject in on itself, you can find some of my Tutorial links on this Subject below…

The first one would be a standard industry way to crop hair, you may have your image at this stage already if you know what fringing is and you just need a refresher guide then you can move on.

Or you are starting from scratch and have happened upon my tutorial or if you are just interested in learning, in general, you can have a look at that tutorial.

How to Crop out Models with Curly Hair in Photoshop

So either prepare your image crop out or if you have one already ready let’s go.

Once you have your cropped image ready, create a new layer and move that in between your two images layers.

Photoshop

Then go to the Tool Bar on the left-hand side and choose the Paint Bucket Tool making sure it’s Black.

You can change it to Black if you look down a little bit on that Tool Bar and see the two little Black and White squares overlapping each other, either click on the little curved layer on top until the black square is on top or double click into it and click on the color graph right at the edge so it’s black, then simply click using that Tool on your image and the layer will now be completely black.

Photoshop

Now, look at your image by zooming in, so to zoom in, in case you don’t know how to yet either use the magnifying glass that you will find on that left-hand side toolbar, I’ll give you a hint, it’s just below the paint bucket and if you hover over the icons they will tell you what they are.

If not no worries just key in on your keyboard Ctrl + The Plus or Minus Key to zoom in and out, you find them generally at the top right of your keyboard beside the delete tool.

And to get everything back to normal key in Ctrl + Zero and you will see your image zoom back to the full Photoshop Workspace size…just so ya know!

So as you can see from the images below now that we have all that done, you can see that pesky fringing that has remained around the body of the hair itself! this is what we’re going to remove!!!

In case you still don’t really know what it is, it’s that light line of pixels that looks really off at the very edge of the hair, kinda like a border.

Photoshop

Now, you may have to do a little bit of fixing of the hair which, to be honest, was always a thorn in your side.

In all my experience no matter what they tell you out there when it comes to fixing hair I believe that my solutions are far more practical and the results, in the end, are generally better so long as you have the PNG’s to back it up, I have left the two links below.

My Solution to Cropping Long Hair in Photoshop

My Solution to Cropping Short Hair in Photoshop

I’ve tried them all and I’d say the standard Photoshop program solutions generally only get you to about 80% at best, yes there will be acceptions here and there but I’ve found that percent to be somewhat true, and unfortunately sometimes to be even lower…

Sometimes you just gotta get your hands dirty and get practical, but this is Photoshop and there are a million different ways to do things so whichever combinations works.

As you can see from my Image below I now have my new background in place that I ‘originally’ wanted my image to be on, so we can imagine this was to be a staff photo or some sort of advertisement or poster or manipulation or whatever…

I’m sure you have your own background that you’d like to add in so take a sec to find something or if you have one already then cool, even better, add it in there.

So open your Photoshop and sort that all out quickly first so we will know what our image is going to look like on the actual background we are going to use instead of the all-black background which was just for demonstration purposes for this Tutorial.

Photoshop

Even just with that small crop the image doesn’t look that bad already, but I can defiantly still see a lot of the fringing and from a professional stand point this wouldn’t be acceptable at all.

So to fix this first we have to create a new layer on top of our cropped layer, so that will be a layer on the top of the stacking order, this will be the layer that all the work will be done.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Next you have to right click on your layer and click on Create Clipping Mask.

So that layer is now joined to the layer below it and anything you do on that layer will only effect the layer that it is joined to.

Photoshop

You can see in the image below the layer is now just slightly off to the side of the cropped out image.

Photoshop

What this also means is that anything that you do in that layer will now assume the shape of the image cropped within the layer too, so if we wanted to we could paint a perfect black silhouette onto that layer if you needed to.

Photoshop

You can also click and move that layer about as well if you wanted to, this seems pretty insignificant now but it will be good to remember this sort of stuff as it might work for other things you are looking to do, such as a Double Exposure image for example…

Photoshop

But anyway, so back to Fringing.

Blending modes is what we’re going to look at now, to in the layers panel you will see the word normal in a drop down box just beside Opacity, you will see it on my example image below to the right hand side towards the middle.

Click on that and a large menu will appear, look for ‘Hue’ which is pretty much at the bottom there.

Photoshop

Now zoom inn on the area that you want to fix so you can start from one end and work your way to the other.

Make sure you are clicked on the top layer also.

Then grab the Brush Tool.

When you do go to the area right beside the Fringing, what you are going to do here is to hold Alt on your keyboard so that the little Eye Dropper Icon appears and you are going to click on the color that you want to replace the Fringing with.

Photoshop

Then on that layer you start to paint over the area that you want to cover, because it is the same color as the hair it will replace the Fringing color, in my case it was Blue with the Red Brown color of the hair, you keep doing this all the way around until you are finished and you will see that it has made a world of difference to your image.

Photoshop

You can then zoom out and take a look.

Photoshop

One last little touch you can do that I usually do it to create a slight blurred layer in behind the main one.

So holding shift on your keyboard click the Cropped Layer then the Clipping Mask layer that we just painted on.

Photoshop

Then duplicate them.

Photoshop

Once you do that right click on the duplicate layers in your layers panel and click on Merge Layers so that they become one layer.

Photoshop

Then go to Gaussian Blur and add a 1 to the Blur.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Then just pop it in between the Cropped layers and the new background and you are done ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop

Let’s Look at the Rule of Thirds Versus the Golden Ratio in Photoshop

Hi all, today I want to expand on my Tutorial on the Golden Ratio so for this we will be using Photoshop.

OK so first I want to say that this is not just used in Photography, so for research and composition development as an exercise if you are currently very into this subject and really trying to learn it you can practice when you watch movies or series etc, even looking at paintings you will notice.

So what is it you’re supposed to notice, well we’ll get into the details of that in a second, but while doing this little exercise just try to spot where people and objects are positioned on screen or whatever after you have read this tutorial and you have a better idea of what exactly all this Thirds and Golden Ratio stuff is all about.

I can promise you one thing, once you know this stuff and apply it to your own images your work will improve right away, you will notice it even for your self.

So let’s get on with it and get learning.

First I want to get on to sizes of images, so all images generally can have a different size, but there is a pretty much-set ratio standard, you will find this in Photoshop when you go to create a new file, you will see in the options panel there is presets for web which is a ratio of 800 x 600 pixels and a set international ratio for paper, [A4 for example which would be your general magazine size give or take]

Photoshop

Photoshop

So if you check in your search engine by typing the keywords “Rule of thirds PNG” you can download the grid, same as the one I have below.

As you can see on both my images it doesn’t exactly fit perfectly…yet.

Photoshop

Photoshop

So if I get any really awkward sized images or I just want the grid to fit whatever I’m using all I have to do is key in on my keyboard [Ctrl-T]

Then I can just drag the ends out to fit my image.

Ok so let’s begin as see how we can use this grid!

So find yourself a few images with people doing whatever, try to find ones where they look off or the person is just simply smacking bang in the middle, like these below.

Photoshop

Photoshop

what you are about to learn is called The Rule of Thirds

So with the Golden ratio [Tutorial Link] you will see that to get a pleasing composition you try to get the focus of your image to align with the end spiral, this can be tricky sometimes if the Golden Ratio grid doesn’t perfectly fit the image and you have to start to play the guessing game, especially if you’re starting out, so that’s when I would suggest using the Rule of Thirds.

The Rule of Thirds is slightly different but the principle I guess remains the same and that’s to create a balanced and pleasing feel to the eye.

Let’s look at what I can do.

So open your images and sort the grid out just like we talked about by stretching it.

Then Duplicate the Layer as shown below, make sure to click on the bottom layer first.

Photoshop

Then right click with the mouse on the new layer and then click on Convert to Smart Object.

You do this because when we stretch the image out the detail will be preserved, If you just started messing with dimensions etc after a while if not right away your image will start to degrade.

Photoshop

Photoshop

The idea behind this is if you look at the images below after you read this paragraph you will see that both images above on the grid don’t match the lines too great, the first one the subject is just off the line of the grid which gives it a slight awkwardness and the second which isn’t a bad image but the subject is just stuck right in the middle which isn’t that interesting.

So if we take each image and align them with one of the lines it should give us a more pleasing image, if you have a small enough subject you could align it with any one of the cross sections, for example, the point where the ladies hood is in the immediate image below.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

And that is basically that with only one thing I want to say, these are only guidelines, And! if you feel your image would look better in some other way then, by all means, do it, if you feel it looks good then go for it, but if you know the fundamentals then you will be able to break them in a more intelligent way.

Hope this makes your images awesome ๐Ÿ™‚

Turn Autumn into Summer in Lightroom and use Photoshop to Create Light Effects

Hey Guys! and welcome to another very cool Lightroom Tutorial were we are going to explore the inner working of that program we love known as Lightroom and see what magic we can create with it, then we’ll be taking our final Lightroom edited image and moving it across to Photoshop to create some interesting summer lighting effects.

Today I want to take a look at images of Autumn and see how we can change it to look more like the summer! so there are reasons why I’m doing this, first because I just want to and second because imagine you are in a situation were you take Images for a wedding or whatever event, and for some reason the event was supposed to happen in the summer but it had to be moved forward and unfortunately by the time the images had been taken it was already Autumn, so there were leaves fallen and the green Colors had almost totally disappeared, let alone the bright sun ๐Ÿ™

So in this tutorial, I’m going to have the answer to that!

I just want to point out that if there was people or other objects that I would have to do some masking, but for this, I’m just going to keep it very simple and just use the normal image.

Check out the image below that I’ll be using.

Lightroom

As you can see for an Autumn picture this looks great, beautiful colors and that nice little bit of mist at the top of the path, great, but how can we change this to summer!

Let’s begin.

The Tools that we will be using today is a combination of two, so normally I would just go to my HSL tab and start to play around with the individual colors sliders.

So in that section, you have 3 further sections, ‘Hue’ which is your base color, so red, green etc

Then you have ‘Saturation’ this is where you can either make the color ridiculous bright and unrealistic looking or go the opposite way with the slider and start to drain the color out of the image making it a more grey looking color, this section is good for dulling a color down darkening it and making it look more off in the distance when you drain the color out and then lighten it, but we’ll not get into that to detailed as that can be an entire tutorial all by itself, ha I had to add that in there as I’m starting to paint again and this has been something I’ve been looking at that works both for art and photography, BUT! anyway…

Then we have ‘Luminance’ which is like or the same sort of as ‘Vibrance’ in Photoshop, so what this will do is to Brighten your color or darken it down.

Lightroom

Lightroom

The problem with this is that it picks out just one color, and just changes that one color to darker lighter or saturated, and we want to change the color totally.

So to do that we have to use Camera Calibration in combination with the HSL tab.

Lightroom

Ok so now wait to you see how fast you can do this.

First I’m going to grab the Blue Primary slider down at the bottom right-hand side there and I’m going to move it all the way to the right-hand side until it hits +100, and already you will see a huge change in the image, everything that was Autumn or just about has now taken on a beautiful green color, amazing!

Lightroom

So you will now be seeing an image that more resembles a summer looking forest, but there is still a few things we can do, especially if your image is like mine and some of those leaves didn’t fully convert to Green and there’s still some pesky Autumn colored leaves there, to be fair it’s not really such a big deal but it would be nice to fully convert the entire image wouldn’t it? ๐Ÿ™‚

The way I’m going to counter that is to go to the Red Primary and move the slider of that to the right until I see the Red nearly disappear or totally disappear, just be careful that it doesn’t look too unreal which can happy, so to neutralist that a little I’m just going to slide the Saturation of the Red Primary to the left a little just to drain that color a little.

Also, the Green is a bit too strong too.

I also see that the trunks of the tree and now a little bit too blue for my liking, so what are we going to do?…I’m guessing you got it, we are going to go to the HSL section again and start to play with the colors now that we have replaced the Autumn Reds with the Greens.

Photoshop

So my only real advice here because there will generally be a difference between every picture you do. What I did here was I had one rule, it has to look real! so I went through each slider and just through trial and error I went through each color just to see how it would look, if it was too bright I brought the saturation down.

I did concentrate on the tree a good bit too, I felt the trunks were too purple and blue, so I brought the saturation down a good bit, if you look at a lot of trees in real life, they’re not brown as such, but they lean heavily towards grey.

Lightroom

Cool! I’ve very happy with how the image has turned out.

Next, I’m going to save my image so I can open it up in Photoshop.

To save in Lightroom, you have to Library, you find this tab at the top right-hand side beside Develop.

Then you click on Export at the bottom left.

Lightroom

Choose the Folder you want to save your file in, and then click on Export.

Lightroom

Lightroom

Now you will be able to find your file where you saved it to and open it up in Photoshop so we can add the lighting effects.

Ok first up in Photoshop is to create a new layer, so go to Layer – New – Layer

Photoshop

Then use the Paint Bucket Tool to fill it in with Black by choosing Black and then clicking on your image.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Next go to Filter – Render – Lens Flare

Photoshop

By clicking on the little cross mark in your Lens Flare Thumbnail you can change the direction of the light to fit the direction the light is coming in on your image, I also just chose first option and left it at 100%

Photoshop

Then in to the right in your layers panel you will see beside Opacity the word Normal, click on that to open up the drop down with all the Blend Mode options and choose Screen.

Photoshop

Now keying in on your keyboard Ctrl+T you will be able to adjust the effect layer.

You can also reduce it’s opacity so it doesn’t look too bright and that’s that!

Photoshop

So hopefully you’re happy with your image, yeah you could do a few more things, like I could maybe fix up the path so there’s no fallen leaves but for now we’re good.

Photoshop

Photoshop

How I Use the Golden Ratio to Set Up My Compositions During My Editing Workflow

Hi all, today for my Photoshop Tutorial I want to share with you some of my knowledge on the Golden Ratio, if you have seen this before you will know that it’s the spiral looking thing to put it very simply, the one I use is actually a little bit different, yes I do use that normal one but I have a squared grid around it, see below.

Photoshop

So, I have been told that this sort of grid can be very hard to use, but I think that I can explain it in a way that will make it easy and accessible to even the newest of beginners so that you can apply it to any of your images.

As you can see from the image as the spiral curves towards the center you can see the squares moving in perfectly with the spiral is perfect, the center of the spiral is where you want the area of interest to me! let’s take a look at some different images and how we can apply this to them.

So this is my first image. [PS: try your best to get images that resemble my images, I don’t want you to use my exact images I want you to get your own so that you can learn the actual feel and not just copy, if you can, they use your own taken images, you can that would be awesome, if not, use keywords on free stock sites like Pixabay as I have “Standing on the edge of a cliff” for example.

Then to do this, open your image first and then go to File – Place.

Find where ever you have your Golden Ratio PNG and open that, Photoshop will then center it, once that’s done you can use your mouse to rotate it, if you hold Shift while you do that it will move it in degree increments so that it will be perfectly straight while in landscape or in portrait mode. Note: you may have to key Ctrl + T to open up Free Transform.

Photoshop

As you can see from the image above that what I would want my main focus to be would be the lady standing on the edge of the cliff, you can see that she is slightly off to the left a good bit from my main area of focus which leads the image to be slightly off balance to a degree, so in this case we don’t have to chop the image up or anything like that or try to create parts via cloning, all we have to do is enlarge the image.

So just to take note before I fix the image, the Golden Ratio does not have to fit perfectly into the image, as you can see from mine it fits the width but not the height, that’s OK, it works fine for this image but there is plenty of other ways we can use it and we’ll be taking a look at just how to do that but to start let’s get a grasp at this very simple example first before be become super geniuses.

Next click on your original image again.

Go to Layer – Duplicate Layer.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Next key in Ctrl + T again so we can move our image around.

You’ll probably want to zoom out for this so hold Ctrl and hit the – (Minus) key on your keyboard up beside the plus one next to the Delete button.

Cool, now let’s create some Golden Ratio Magic.

Now we shift our area of focus right into that spiral area as best we can, you will notice that I have the subject’s feet firmly planted on the line and the vertical line is cutting right down the middle of our subject.

See how the curve now also clips the bottom of the cliff edge as well.

Photoshop

Now ideally I would have liked to have had the subject of interest directly in the line that the grid and spiral meet but unfortunately it wasn’t possible with this image as the subject of interest was too far left, so keep this in mind when you are taking images not to have your subject too far to one side, you want to leave plenty of room to work with so as not to lose too much of the image, but I think we did OK here.

Photoshop

Photoshop

I’m happy with how the image turned out, so let’s move on.

For the next image, I’m going to talk through my thoughts on and my ideas on using the Golden Ratio for this.

So this is my image that I have opened up in Photoshop, you should find something similar as we talked about previous and use what you have learned and what we will talk about here to develop your own awareness to how to apply the Golden Ratio.

Here is the photograph that I’ve picked out.

Photoshop

So as you can see from the image there is a lot more going on here than one person that you can easily focus in on.

Let’s take the individual elements of the image and try to figure out what we would like our main focus of this image to be.

First up we have the bike, due to its large size I wouldn’t consider it to be the main focus of the image, it’s more of a lead in an element to what I want to focus on.

So the bike leads us to the people all hanging out there after a long day out on the bikes, they’re just chilling there but their focus is somewhere over the camera and towards something outward, so that makes my brain think “oh what’s over there?” which then makes me look elsewhere which of course then leads me to the little bike on the ground, it’s the element that’s the most prominent in the image I believe so this is why I’m going to make this the focus of my Golden Ratio.

I’m not going to place my Golden Ratio PNG over it and see where everything lines up.

Photoshop

OK, so not so bad, the image is pretty close but we can do a lot more, I want to position the little toy direct bang in the center of that spiral but I’m hoping that the rest will fit good, judging by the image it looks like I have enough space on either side to make this work, we talked about this previously when I said make sure you leave yourself plenty of room to work with for your images.

As before create a Duplicate of your image and then I key into my keyboard Ctrl+T to open up Free Transform so I can move my image around.

Remember that you can hold Shift to the image doesn’t go all out of shape when you move it about.

First I tried to make the image fit into the landscape Golden Ratio but I just didn’t have the room on the right-hand side as I would have wished, so then my next thought as well, if I can get the elements as close to the curved line on both sides it should at least still look pretty balanced, so I tried that, note the wheel of the bike on the left, the head of our tallest individual and the back wheel of the toy bike all manage to touch the edge of the Golden Ratio Curve!! so at least that’s a start.

Photoshop

Photoshop

So now I’m looking at my image and I’m thinking that I still have a lot of room at the bottom of the image and I’m not just quite convinced yet, I don’t know what it is I just have that editors gut feeling, so I want to check what the image looks like with the Golden Ratio turned around for portrait, so I check and I see that the little toy bike fits but I still feel it’s off a little.

Photoshop

So now I think, well there a main horizontal line and it’s sitting rather high for my liking so let’s move that down to the lowest inner line and see how that feels.

Photoshop

In doing so the sense of balance has now hit me, that’s it that’s the one! I usually go by the rule that when doing landscapes the ground should be just one-third of the image and the sky two and I feel it worked perfectly here.

Photoshop

I now feel that my image is now perfectly balanced and I’m happy to leave it as it currently is!

Photoshop

Hope you learned a lot, this is only the basics of the Golden Ratio but I feel with just this knowledge it will take you very far.

How To Give Your Architecture a Deep Rich Feel In Lightroom

Hi everyone, so today we’re going to be taken a lot at this Image below for our Lightroom Tutorial.

Lightroom

So assessing this image you can see that it is a great shot, but I feel that it is somewhat flat and that we can improve it by adding in some Deep Richness into it.

So let’s begin and see what we can do to improve this already wonderful image!

Photoshop

The first thing I’m going to do is go to the Basic Panel on the right and to move the Temp slider up +10, so depending on the image you choose it will either be a cooler image, so more blue green or a warm image, mine is warm so I move my slider to the right, cool would be to the left.

Photoshop

Next (and take note of this trick because we’ll be using it for a few of these sliders) is to hold Alt and then click on the slider, so this works for Exposure, when you do it your screen will turn black, so slider your slider until you see a load of pixels appear, then pull your slider back to the point when all the pixels disappear, at that point you will have perfect exposure.

Photoshop

Next I’m just going to add +30 to the Contrast Slider to add in a little bit of that.

Photoshop

Next is when the main magic happens.

Slide the Highlights bar completely to the left and the Shadows bar all the way to the right, you will see a significant change already.

Photoshop

Now we are going to use the trick that we did with the exposure slider and we are going to apply that exact same principle to the Whites and Blacks slider. [Note: the Blacks screen will turn White so don’t freak out, you’re good]

Photoshop

Next we’ll move just below that and add a little Clarity, just a touch should be enough.

Then Vibrance, but for the Vibrance you want to go as far as you can to the point of were it kind of looks bad, then just pull it back a slight bit, then with the Saturation below that you can then start to minus it off and drain a little bit of the color away.

Photoshop

Now we’ll start to play around with the individual colors, so with this scroll down to you see the HSL/Color/B&W tab, in there click on ‘All’

Now I’m going to go through every slider, with these I’m just going to do little slides, not huge changes, this will be a good exercise for you to think for yourself and see what you like in this process, so you’re on your own here to be free and creative, don’t worry so much, just trust your instinct, if you feel it doesn’t look for good and it’s making the image look pixelled then pull it back, use your best judgement.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Now that we have the colors fixed up I’m going to move on to some of the Details, which is in the Detail panel.

So the issue here is that with the Clarifying a little bit of Noise in the image was created, Noise is Pixellation, and more will be created now once we Sharpen, so I want to be able to sharpen so the image looks deeper but I don’t want any of the Pixellation, so the way around this is to of course first go to the slider in Sharpen called ‘Amount’ and just add a little bit to that, I moved my slider to 4.

Now the next step is to go to the panel below that which is your Noise Reduction and in that the slider that we use is called ‘Luminance’

Slide that to the right until you start to see the image becoming very soft and lacking in detail, then start to reverse until you get to the point when there is no pixellation.

Around 50 did it for me.

Lightroom

Last little touch let’s go to Effects, and add a -40 to the Amount which is the top slider there in the Post-Crop Vignetting, this will draw the eye in nicely towards the center of your image darkening the edges a little bit.

Lightroom

And with that we are done, your image should be looking awesome at this stage I hope and I hope you enjoyed what you learned and get to put it into use.

Lightroom

Learn How to Edit like Mark Singerman Instagram Photographer in Photoshop

Hi all, welcome to another one of my Photoshop Tutorials, today I want to have a look at an Instagram Photographer I have recently started to follow by the name of Mark Singerman.

I have to say I really like his punchy style and it fits into the sort of editing I like to do for my Images personally.

So if you haven’t already take a few minutes to go take a look at his style in your search engine.

The main goal of this Tutorial will be to show you some of the techniques used, I don’t want you to copy me or the Photographer in question but to take these techniques and ideas and apply them to your own editing to see what you can come up with for yourself.

So don’t worry if you don’t get an amazing look right away, but more have fun and play around and see what you can achieve.

Let’s begin, so the type of image that I’m going to be using for this is a model shot as if I am editing this image for a fashion magazine or something, so get something similar.

Check out my image below.

So just on a side note, make it easy on yourself and get an image that already has a blue/orange to it because that’s the style we’re going after.

Photoshop

The first thing that we are going to do is to create a duplicate layer to work on so that we have the original layer safe below everything else.

Photoshop

Then we are going to want to flatten our image a little, and to do this we have to go to the top of the screen and click on Image – Adjustments – Brightness/Contrast.

When you see the panel appear click on the slider below for the contrast and slide it all the way to the left-hand side, you will see your image drain a little bit.

Click OK and we’re ready to move to the next step. [Just before we move forward I just want to point out that if you wanted to do any Retouching at this stage this is when you would want to do it, so any Clone Stamping and things of that nature]

Photoshop

Photoshop

Next, go to layer again and create two more Duplicate Layers of the layer we just worked with.

Name the Top one Textured Layer and the one below that name it Low Layer.

Now click the Eye icon to the left of the layer name Textured Layer to turn off its visibility for now and then make sure you are clicked on to the Low Layer.

Photoshop

Photoshop

OK now we’re going to start to play around with the the Noise…so in case you don’t know what that is, if you look carefully at your images you will see that it is most probably made up of a lot of little pixels, well the more there is of this the more noise is in your image, ideally you don’t want to have a whole lot of noise unless it was your plan to have the image look grainy.

So anyway, what we do here is go to Filter – Noise – Dust & Scratches

Photoshop

Ok so listen up for this part, I’m assuming that everyone else’s images out there are possibly/probably going to be a different size, grain, and composition from mine so the amount that we’re going to use here for the Radius Slider is going to be different so we are going to be looking more for how the image is going to appear, and the look that I will be going for is to make the image just on the knife edge of being blurred, so you want it to look blurred but you want to still see the details, for me it worked that 3 was perfect, you might be one less or you could be as high as 10 so just play with this range until you feel you have your image blurred enough.

Photoshop

Next, you are going to click on that eye icon again so that it’s ready to rock after we save.

First, we’ll save up.

So go to File – Save As

Photoshop

Then choose the location of your file, and for Format click on the drop down and look in the list until you see the PSD option.

This option will enable you to reopen your Photoshop file at any stage and continue from where you saved, so it’s the actual working document you have open right now.

Photoshop

Click OK and you’re good.

Let’s move to the next step.

Right make sure that you have clicked on to the top layer, which is the Textured Layer.

Then make your way over to Image – Apply Image

Photoshop

When you do this you will see a pop up appear and there are a few things that we are going to do in this panel.

So first look to where it says Layer Merged and click on that.

Choose the option that is the layer below the one you are working on, so click on Low Layer

Photoshop

Then click on the little box that says Invert.

Photoshop

Next, we are going to the Blending Mode, click on it and click on the option ‘Add’

Photoshop

Last thing you are going to do if you haven’t already if change the scale to (2) and press OK.

Photoshop

Now take a look over to the original layers and in that panel you will see the word Normal in a drop-down box, click that drop down box to reveal all the different Blending Mode options available in Photoshop.

Now choose the option ‘Linear Light’

Now that layer will be see through.

Photoshop

But we are going to pull this effect out a lot more.

So click on your top layer and beside that you will see that there is an option for Opacity, drop this down so that it’s about 50%, I just want to get a half blur here, just a little bit again but have details remain.

You can change this about at any stage you feel like if you feel at the end or whatever you have blurred the image too much, just up the Opacity again and you’re good, 50% was good for me, yours may be a little bit higher.

Photoshop

OK, now we are going to use what is called a Keyboard Shortcut to join all the layers together and create a ‘Stamp’ of the image.

So on your keyboard hold [Ctrl – Alt – Shift + E]

Then we are going to create a new duplicate layer of that layer.

When you have that new layer go to Image – Adjustments – Levels

Photoshop

Move the middle slider toward the right-hand side to darken the image and press OK.

Photoshop

Create another Stamp [Shift – Ctrl – Alt + E]

Then grab your Elliptical Marquee Tool.

Change it’s Feather to about 30 first.

Then draw your selection from the top left down over your image. Don’t worry if it’s not placed perfectly you will be able to move it about with the arrows on your keyboard.

Photoshop

When you have done this, simply hit Delete on your keyboard to delete out the middle. Then click the Eye Icon to hide the Level Layer.

Photoshop

Then make a new Stamp of everything again.

Now we are going to start to bring back contrast.

So when we started the image we removed the contrast, the reason behind this is that when you start to color grade as we will be doing you generally want to have an image that has been flattened as it will be easier to see the color process rather than to start out with an image with strong colors and try to go from there, it’s like when a painter starts he generally stains his canvas with brown or gray paint to neutralist it down.

So to add back in the contrast go to Layer-New Adjustment Layer-Curves

Photoshop

You will now see the pop up panel appear with the graph, where I have clicked on the center line below do the same, so you click on the bottom one roughly at the top of that first square and pull it down a little, then just after the center square and pull it up a little, last the very top square but the bottom edge of it and pull it up a little too.

Photoshop

So just a quick note on those 3 points, the bottom one represents the dark’s, middle your mid tones and the top is the highlights so keep that in mind if you can for the next time you use the Curves Tool.

You will also notice that some color will now be introduced back into your image, but we’re going to push this a little further as our Photographer uses a lot of Teals which seems to be very much in style now with a whole lot of Instagram photographers.

Now it’s time to move into the color grading of our image.

Mark uses a lot of these Teal and Orange tones so we are going to try to push our image in that direction! so to do this let’s open up an Adjustment Layer.

Go to Layer – Adjustment Layer – Selective Color

Photoshop

OK, now you’re on your own! scary isn’t it! so now we have our little panel that has appeared.

You will see all the sliders and the colors options.

At the bottom you will see two circles you can check off, one is Relative the other is Absolute, make sure Absolute has been clicked on.

Photoshop

If you click on the color options drop down you will see lots of other colors.

Photoshop

So now that you know that, what you are going to do now, and consider this a test, so this will take a good bit of trial and error,What I’m going to try to do here is to push all my Reds and Yellows such as skin tones towards an orange direction then do the same with the Blues but push them towards a Teal, with everything else you want to make them look brighter so long as you don’t start seeing unrealistic pixel groups forming.

Photoshop

Now we’re going to do a bit of Dodging and Burning, so what this is if you don’t know is basically Brightening your Highlights and Darkening your Shadows by using the Brush Tool.

So the way we do this is first we must create a New Layer.

Layer-New – Layer

Photoshop

Then using the Paint Bucket Tool.

Photoshop

Choose Grey by double-clicking on the little Black Box at the bottom left.

Photoshop

Then click as close to halfway as you can to get 50% Grey.

Photoshop

Using the Paint Bucket click on the screen of the new layer.

Photoshop

Then you must change the layer blend mode to Overlay so it becomes transparent.

Photoshop

Now choosing the Dodge Tool you will be able to paint over the light areas to make them brighter.

But before you do that there is a couple of little setting you must do.

Photoshop

You have to change the Range to Midtones, and the Exposure to 50%.

Then start to paint along the Highlight areas, so areas like edges of the vehicle and the models feature such as cheeks etc

Photoshop

Then do the exact same with Burn, only you change the Range to Shadows!!

Photoshop

Photoshop

Once you’re done, if you feel your layer is too powerful you can always drop the opacity int he layers panel to about 50%.

Photoshop

Now we’re going to create some lighting effects to finish up.

So, create a new layer as we did previously and just as we did with the paint bucket fill the screen of the new layer with all black this time.

Photoshop

Then I’m going to make 2 Layer Duplicates so we have 3 in total.

Photoshop

then take each layer at a time and go to Filter – Render – Lens Flare.

Photoshop

So you will have a few different options to choose from with the Len Flares, just choose a different one each time and use the slider to make it a little bit brighter, but not too crazy, the example I have below will work just fine.

Photoshop

Then change each layers blend mode to Screen, so only the lighting effect is visible.

Photoshop

Next, I’ll add a slight blur to each as I go along using Gaussian Blur.

Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur

Photoshop

Then you will want to reposition possibly, if not all good but if so key in Ctrl T, then you will be able to grab the image and shift it about and you will also be able to grab the edges and change the size etc. Note that if you hold shift it will constrain the layers size so it won’t distort and go all out of shape.

Photoshop

Be creative and play around with the layers and think about where the light in the actual image is coming from.

Photoshop

The last touch that I’m going to do is to add a Vibrance adjustment layer to the image.

Layer-New Adjustment Layer – Vibrance

Photoshop

I pulled my Vibrance slider up to +60 which worked well for my image, do yours to what you think is good for yours.

Photoshop

And that’s us! you should have a pretty cool image by now! I’m happy with how mine turned out, hope you’re happy with yours.

Photoshop

How To Edit Like luizclas Instagram in Lightroom to Photoshop

Hi all, got a cool one for you today, today we’re going to be taking a look at the work of Luiz Claudio also known as luizclas on Instagram.

I stumbled upon this work recently and I loved it, the colors that are used are orange and blue, so two colors that compliment each other as the color wheel indicates.

And just a small note on the color wheel, if you look at the color wheel so just right now get one up on your browser you will see that certain colors are directly opposite from each other, so not to go into it too deeply, but if you wanted to create your own style you could choose two complementary colors of your own to edit your images towards, it just so happens our Photographer today uses Blue and Orange tones which seem to be quite in vogue from what I’m seeing these days.

So this will be a joined Tutorial, I want to first do basic edits in Lightroom and then move across to Photoshop.

So open up your Image and your Develop module let’s get started.

Let’s get our Lightroom open.

The image that I’m going to be using today below as the first set of edits that I’m going to be doing that you will see in the example image below is as follows…

[Just a side note before I begin, you will see that I have used this redhead girl as it fits in with the types of images the Photographer would take, so to make life easy on yourself just for this look for something similar and after that if you like the style you can start to experiment a little]

First I like to drop the Highlights right down to -100

Then I’ll do the opposite with the shadows moving them to +100

After I’m done with that I’m going to move on to the Whites and Blacks just below.

Hold Alt on your keyboard and click on the little slider tab, and you will see for the Whites the screen will turn completely Black, move your slider about until you see the image appearing in pixel form, now what you want to do is slide the slider just to the exact point those pixels disappear.

Then you do the exact same for the Blacks and then I go up to Exposure and once again do the exact same. [not that screen color will change form Black to White for the Black slider as opposed to what it was when you moved the White slider, so don’t worry it’s just normal]

after you are done with that you can just add a tiny little bit of Clarity to your image, I just added +25, you will see it highlighted below in our example image to the right below everything else.

Lightroom

Now we’re going to take a look at adding some detail to the image, so scan down from Basic and you will see the Detail panel, click on it to expand it out and at the top, you will see the option for Sharpening.

Look to the slider that says Amount and either use the slider to push it over to the right to reach roughly 25 or just click on the number already there and replace it with 25.

Lightroom

Next look just below that and you will see the Noise Reduction sliders, so the one that you want to be using for this is Luminance, so click on that slider and do the exact same with that as you just did with Amount.

Take note that it is generally good to add a little bit of noise reduction when you sharpen just to bring it down just a notch from where you might have it, I know with me when I use Sharpening I tend to overdo it at first and then using Noise Reduction bring it back to a place that I actually like better, so just keep that in mind, it’s not a total rule so you don’t always have to do it, but just know that the option is there if your image looks too pixelated.

Lightroom

Ok cool so I will leave this first part here save your image by going to Library in your top menu beside Develop, then down at the bottom left you will see export, hit export again, choose your folder or just desktop, click on ‘use unique names’ and your image will be saved.

Now our image has been prepped with my basic Lightroom workflow we’re now going to start applying the coloring to it in Photoshop, so go ahead and open everything up and then create a duplicate layer.

Photoshop

Photoshop

So what we could have done in Lightroom was go into the HSL sliders and started to play around in there but I want more scope to apply certain colors to certain areas, if you look at Luiz’s work he has a great contrast between the Orange/Browns to the Blue/Teals, which is why I want to switch over to Photoshop.

Anyway so go to Layer and choose New Fill Layer then Solid Colour.

Photoshop

Change the color up to as close a brown as you can to a sort of chocolate brown.

Photoshop

Next you want to change the layer to Hue, you do that in the Blend Mode, you will find this in the layer panel just to the left of where it says Opacity, below you will see that the drop down box says Hue so click into that, yours will/should atm say ‘Normal’, then once you have that chosen to reduce the opacity down to about 85%.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Once you do that then click on the brush tool or press B on your keyboard, and in your layers panel you will see that there is a little white box beside the color fill, when you click on this box you are able to paint with black directly onto your image to hide areas of that layer, when you paint with white it will re-appear, so using this technique I will paint out the sky.

A tip here, you have brush options under where it says edit, so just below that, it will have a circle and a number, click on that make sure to choose the first brush as this is the soft brush which means it has a feather, then looking across to the right you will see opacity, drop this to about 50% so we can get a good blend and start to paint out that sky from around our figure.

Photoshop

Now do the exact same again, only this time instead of choosing Brown, choose a kind of Teal Colour and choose Soft Light in the blend mode instead of Hue, then when it comes to painting out don’t paint out the sky this time but instead, you paint out the figure.

Photoshop

Next, if you wish you can add a Vibrance layer for the Teal Colour in to give it a little more punch as shown below, I whack mine right up to 100%, if in your image it’s a bit too much you can just reduce it.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Remember to create a clipping mask by right-clicking on the layer and clicking on the Clipping Mask option, this means it will now be attached just to that layer.

Photoshop

Next, we are going to play with the Curves.

Go to Layer-New Adjustment Layer-Curves

Photoshop

As shown below, click on the top of the first grid square, you will see in mind there is a dot, click on your and just pull it down a tiny bit.

Photoshop

Next in the box where it says RGB you will have to do the following steps to first Blue, then Red.

Photoshop

Blue first, do the same as you just did with the normal RGB setting clicking on the first square and pulling it down a little, then you want to click and drag the first corner on the bottom left up a little bit.

Photoshop

Then the right corner you pull it down slightly.

Photoshop

Then open your Red option.

Photoshop

Do the exact same only this time instead of pulling the first one we did with the slight pull down of the grid square we now click on the middle as seen below.

Photoshop

Once that’s done let’s add a little contrast by going to Layer-New Adjustment Layer –  Brightness/Contrast.

Photoshop

Add about 10 to the contrast.

Photoshop

Now go to Layer and choose a New Layer that we are going to use the Paint Bucket with Black to Fill in.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Once that’s done we’re going to add a Lens Flare Effect.

You’ll find this in the Filter Option in Render.

Photoshop

I didn’t increase mine too much, I just went to 117% from 100%, so just a touch.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Change it’s Blend Mode to ‘Screen’

Photoshop

Use Ctrl T to open up the Free Transform option and position the layer as you please.

Photoshop

Add a little Blur to it by going to Filter – Blur Gaussian Blur

Photoshop

For me I changed the Radius to 20, you want to get it to the point where it’s blurry but the shape is still a little bit visible.

Photoshop

If you want to add a little bit more contrast at this point you can open up a Levels Adjustment Layer.

Photoshop

Then grab the first Slider on the left and pull it toward the right a little to darken the image just a notch.

Photoshop

And we are done!

Hope you got a great result.

Photoshop

How to Know Which Photos Will Look Awesome in Black and White

Hi everyone, today I’m going to talk about a subject that you probably rarely hear, I know that in all my experience it’s definitely not a subject that I have come across too often.

That subject is! how do I know if my image will look cool as a Black and Whiteย Image?

So B&W can apply to both Photoshop and Lightroom, but for variety of my tutorials overall I’ll go with Lightroom for this as I feel Lightroom is far more suited for these kinds of edits, when I use Photoshop I generally use it for more Photo Manipulation work but if you are looking at this and you only have Photoshop then don’t worry, the same theories apply to both.

Let’s take this scenario, so working as a Freelancer I have had many projects working with the likes of wedding photographers to help them with their editing when they are short of time.

Usually, they will say to me that they want 200 awesome colour images and 50 black and white out of a batch of 1000 or whatever they took.

So I use these ideas to pick which ones would look good for black and white.

The first that I will use is I’ll take a scan through images and I’ll try to simply just imagine an images possibility as a black and white image.

It sounds super easy and super simple but really it is not and you have to develop an eye for this!

So when you do this what you are looking for if the contrast in the lights to dark’s, so if you take a few minutes there go to some professional street photography websites and look over a few of their images, what you will notice is that there will be a great contrast in the blacks to Whites which in turn gives you a really good image.

If an image is pretty devoid of shadows and the like then it will make for a somewhat uninteresting [depending on the image, of course ‘rules’ can be broken] but in general the image wont really have a tremendous amount going on in it so therefore it will be as said uninteresting…

As an exercise, pick out 5 images from either you collection or whoever’s and see which ones you think will look cool then later you can apply the other ideas I will be adding to this Tutorial to your images.

So you are looking for images with a good range of shadows to highlights and then try to see in your head the colours drain away to black and white.

One other thing I’ll add as well is that if there is lots of different colours within your image then it will be good so long as the contrast is good because once you start to edit a little you can take each colour and enhance it while in Black and White.

Let’s take a look at the image below shall we and see what would make this image a good black and white image and I’ll give you my practical reason.

Ok so straight away if you look at the nice dark contrast between the bike, the steps and the lamp post to the building and the path you can right away imagine how this would look if converted to black and white, and also take in to account that you could do a little bit of enhancement and light correction as well to increase the contrast so keep that in mind also.

But also let’s take into account the windows and the green around this, we can really bring that green out while in black and white, then we got all the contrast in the stone path too, once we start to edit all those little-contrasted details will stand out brilliantly.

Photoshop

Ok so now that you know what you are looking for in your image, how do your images that you picked out compare? if they are similar then good job, if not then do you think you could try to find better ones?

Remember also that you can change the contrast and try to salvage images in the editing process too…

But better to start out with a good foundation from the start instead of being in damage control from the word go.

Ok so the next way will be a more hands-on Lightroom way to do it, so get your Lightroom open and get your images imported and ready to go, so I’ll be looking your to follow along with one or two images then at the very end take it upon your self to edit the rest of your images with what you have learned.

Cool, let’s begin.

So a lot of times we would be trying to figure this out in post-production, so I would start out by doing the basic editing process I do for all my images which are to go to the Basic Panel and drop the Highlights all the way to the left, then I’d push the Shadows the opposite way all the way to the right.

Then I hold Alt while I click on the Whites and move the slider about until I see the image appear as pixels on my screen, then I’ll pull it back to the point where basically all my pixels have disappeared.

I then do the exact same with the Black slider.

Then I might add just a little bit of Clarity for good measure.

Lightroom

So good, now what? well if you hit (V) on your keyboard you will see that your image will now turn to Black and White.

You should also notice that the B&W portion on the right panel will open up now and you will see all the colours listed as the Black and White Mix.

This means that you will be able to change the intensity of the colours while in Black and White using this mix of sliders, so play around with those and see what results you get and stick with the ones you like.

[Note that on some versions of Lightroom, when you key in (V) again it will lose all the edits you did, so maybe take a little note of them when you go to edit for real]

Lightroom

Ok, next up we are going to go to our other image and create a virtual copy.

To do this right click on your image and chose the option when you see it in the drop down.

Lightroom

You will now see the little thumbnail on the bottom, if you click it, it will disappear and reappear when you click again.

Lightroom

So clicking on the first one you can edit it just like we did before with the Highlights down and Shadows up and the Blacks and Whites fixed up using the hold Alt trick etc adding a little Clarity.

Lightroom

Then you can flip to the other image and scroll down until you see the B&W panel, then click on it, once you do just follow the exact same process as you did above shifting the Highlights down, the Shadows up and using holding Alt to perfect your Whites and Blacks, but this time if you wish you can add some contrast too and if you wish you can play with the colour mix too just as we did previously.

Lightroom

Then you will be able to flip between the two of them and see which you like best out of the two, and if you like both then you have the two there anyway so all good.

So that’s the way that I would do it and I’m sure you will find these little processes very helpful along with the idea of looking for contrast.

That in itself is a skill and must be developed, once you develop this skill you will start to become a far better photographer overall and you will start to look for the drama in the contrast of your image, once you start to see these things then you will be able to start noticing on a whim interesting images and your skill in composition will improve.

This is how the likes of street photographers create such wonderful real life in the moment shots, the walk around with their eyes open and when they see the image [which will come with practice] they just snap.

Really it’s a kind of sixth sense.

Get out there and enjoy!

Lightroom

How to create a Moody Dark Effect in Adobe Photoshop

Hi all, so right now where I live it’s summer and kinda nice outside, so I thought for this Photoshop Tutorial I’d take things the other way and show you how to create a Moody Dark Effect for your Images.

So check out this cool image that I got off of Pixabay.

Photoshop

Already it has a nice mood to it but I’m going to take it to the depths of misery! lol just joking, I’m going to create a nice mood that will really bring out all the little details in the background and set a somewhat sombre yet mellow feel to the entire image.

So keeping in theme with the tutorials I’ve been doing recently I’ve been scanning or Instagram and I see a lot of images that take on the effects that I am about to show you, some I’m not sure of the exact process that the Photographer took, it could be as simple as they just slapped a few filters over their images and with most of the images being viewed on a phone screen it’s going to look good.

They could also have used some presets like the ones on this site, but I’m going to show you my interpretation/process that will work on both small and large images, because you may want to print some of your results…who knows.

Ok let’s get to it, so first lets make a duplicate layer of our images as it’s always good to have a backup as sometimes you never know were we will go with the editing process further down the line and at least you’ll have a full backup copy of the image there just in case in future you end up losing originals or something.

So click on your layer on the left in the layers panel with the padlock on it and then go to Layer – Duplicate Layer.

Photoshop

Cool and when you have that done you will have to then create a new Adjustment Layer for Exposure.

So go to the top menu and you will see Layer there, just as shown below.

Photoshop

Once you click ok, you will now see that panel appears on the right-hand side above where the layers panel is, for this I’m just going to click and drag Exposure to the left just a little and Offset over to the right a little, Gamma Correction I’ll just leave that as it is for now.

Photoshop

Next let’s take a look at what levels does for us…

[Note: I’m going to be going through a few of these so this is not a set path, but what I want you to see is that you can do many of the same kind of things many different ways, some do create subtle changes though! so take this time now and explore and try to notice what each does to your image]

So open your Levels layer up.

Photoshop

You will now see the histogram, so my general rule for this is to take each side of the graph, and move the little slider tabs in on both sides so they meet the graph, then I will take the middle slider tab and move it towards the left a little bit, if you want you can follow my example below.

Photoshop

Next let’s do the same and open Brightness and Contrast.

Photoshop

With this adjustment layer, I reduced both to -25 as I wanted to lighten the image up for the future adjustments and have everything stand out and be clear.

Photoshop

Ok cool so I’m happy with what I have so far, so now I’m going to join all the layers together, the way I do this is to click on the top layer, then hold shift and then click on the bottom one.

You will see that everything is now highlighted.

Photoshop

Then go to your layers menu at the top and choose Duplicate Layers.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Then you can right click on them and choose Merge Layers to create the one layer.

Photoshop

Next, we’ll add a little bit of sharpening, the way I do this is to click on the new layer, then go to Filter up where you find the Layers drop-down menu, go to that then Other, then High Pass.

Photoshop

Photoshop

I went with 10 pixels and then I hit OK then save up.

Now you are going to choose a Blend Mode called Soft Light.

If you are a bit stuck as to where Blend Mode takes a look at your Layers Panel on the right-hand side, there you’ll see the likes of Opacity and a drop down with the word ‘Normal’ click on normal and you’ll see the options for the blend modes sprint up right in front of you and you’ll find it there.

When you do that you will see your image again as it was, but the difference is that it will now be a little bit sharper.

Photoshop

If it’s too strong you can drop the opacity of your layer just like I did below.

80% was good for me.

Photoshop

After we’re done there we are going to add a Vibrance Adjustment Layer.

Photoshop

So what I want to do here is pull some of the colours out but have the greys remain grey and bleak.

So I’ll shift my Vibrance slider the whole way to the right, then I’ll pull it back by using the saturation slider at the bottom, I’ll slide it to the left until my image starts to look decent again.

Your colours should now be that little bit stronger with the greys remaining dull.

Photoshop

Next, we’ll mess with Curves, so the same process, open up your Adjustment Layer.

Photoshop

Click where you see RGB and the individual colours will now be available to you.

Take Green and Blue and pull the centre of the horizontal line up a little.

Don’t go crazy with this, just a little will do.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Ok just as we did before, select all the layers and merge them together.

Then go to Filter – Noise (up in the top menu)

In there you’ll find Reduce Noise and Dust and Scratches.

With Dust and Scratches leave radius where it is and shift Threshold to the right, I moved mine up to level 80.

Photoshop

With Reduce Noise I just played around with it until it looked kind of gritty like the image below if you wish you can try out my settings for reference, if those settings are too strong just pull it back a little.

Photoshop

When that’s done it’s time for a bit of selective colour editing, open this up just like all the other adjustment layer.

Photoshop

Go through each colour you’d like to strengthen as I did, this will be totally subjective, do what you feel is cool, I paid special attention to the green around the door and the blues again with his clothes and the puddle.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Once more create an exposure Adjustment Layer.

Photoshop

This time leave Exposure but move Offset and Gamma Correction to the right a little until your image gets a little hazy.

Photoshop

Next Levels Adjustment again.

Photoshop

But this time instead of the three little sliders concentrate on the black and white bar below.

Pull the two little tabs in towards the centre just a little bit.

Photoshop

And just as we did before with the RGB in curves we can do the same here, I did what we just did with the black and white tabs for the blue option to mood my image down.

Photoshop

When that’s done it’s time to do a little bit of Gradient work! but first, go to where you created the Duplicate Layers and go to New –  Layer.

Photoshop

Choose your Paint Bucket Tool as shown below and fill the screen with Black by clicking on your image.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Go to the layer that you just created and double click on it.

Photoshop

Look for Gradient Overlay and click on it.

In the options look for style and change it to Radial then click OK.

Photoshop

Now change the blend mode just as we did before with High Pass but this time change it to Screen and then drop the layers opacity to about 25%.

Photoshop

Choose a new Brightness and Contrast Adjustment Layer.

Photoshop

Shift Contrast to the right a good bit, probably somewhere similar to mine in the image below.

Photoshop

If you wish, and it’s not necessary, but you can create another Gradient Layer as I have done below but try out some colours options and then drop the layers opacity a good bit till it’s barely visible, I used the yellow and orange gradient as I thought it would pull some flesh tones and background graffiti out a little.

Photoshop

Now collect everything together again and hit Ctrl G to group them, then you can merge the group but first right clicking and creating a duplicate of it and then merging.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

The last thing we’ll do is to go to Filter – Sharpen – Sharpen just to add that little bit more grit.

Photoshop

And by now you should have a pretty cool gritty moody dark looking image to depress all your Instagram follower with ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop

How to edit in the Instagram style of Jon Olsson in Lightroom – Part 2

OK since my last edit I had a little change of heart when it came to my saturation sliders, I felt that the orange was probably a little too strong, so check out the image below and see what changes I made.

Lightroom

So keep this in mind when you are editing, if you wish you can close everything down and head off to your favourite coffee shop or whatever and then come back later and have a look at your Image and how it looks now that you’ve been away and gave your eyes and brain a little rest, you may see the image totally different than what it was when you left it.

But that’s the cool thing about Lightroom is that you can come back at any point and change up your previous edits.

If you still feel that your colours are not quite where you want them to be you could go to the Hue sliders option which is just to the left of the saturation sliders option, then you can play around with the same colours again and see if that makes any kind of difference to your image.

When I did it I was able to pull a more Teal colour out of my Blues which is exactly what I was looking for and I didn’t even realise till I tested the Hue option out.

So with a bit of luck then maybe you will see something come out of the woodwork as I did when I got round to checking out the Hue.

Lightroom

Next you can take a look at what the Luminance Sliders do.

These Sliders will increase your colours and give them a little bit more brightness.

You can go down the Sliders and see what results you come up with, if they do nothing for your image them just set them back to zero.

Lightroom

So at this stage if you want to see what you have done on your image so far you can hit the Backslash Key on your keyboard, you should find that on the left hand side of your keyboard beside the shift key.

Next we can do a little bit of Split Toning, so what this does is specifically add the colour you choose to the Highlights or to the Shadows, so look on the panel on the right we have been using until you see Split Toning and click into it.

Lightroom

So a little trick you can use here when using split toning is, say you go to Highlights and you click on the Hue slider, hold Alt on your keyboard and your entire screen will now become the colour that the slider is currently over, note that this is not the colour your entire image will become, it is just to give you a better idea of the colour that will go into your Highlights, same works for Shadows.

With split toning I’ll add a nice orange to my Highlights and Teal to my Shadows which is a Green Blue colour.

You can also add a little saturation if you wish as well.

Cool so we went threw all our colour options to see what difference it makes, some probably didn’t do a whole lot but it’s good just to go threw them anyway especially when learning to see if your eye can pick up on subtle changes, it’s also a good idea to familiarise yourself of course too.

OK let’s hit the last little stretch.

Go to the Basics panel at the top.

So the basic editing process I do is I -100 my Highlights and +100 my Shadows.

Then I go to Whites, so what I do for Whites is I hold Alt, when you do this you will see your screen turn Black, what you do here is you move your slider over until your image disappears completely, if you slide your slider about you will notice your image appear in white pixels, so you want this to basically disappear or go down to the minimal amount of pixels visible.

You do the exact same for Black on of course the colours will now be reversed.

Lightroom

Last little touch is to go down to where it says ‘Clarity’ and slide that to the right until you get a good contrast similar to Jons work.

By now you should have an awesome image!

Lightroom

How to edit in the Instagram style of Jon Olsson in Lightroom – Part 1

Hi everyone and welcome to this Lightroom Tutorial.

So if you don’t know who this Photographer is, then take a second to look him up on your search engine and get a feel for his work and what we will be trying to achieve here today! and if you already have an Instagram account then add him if following Photographers is your thing as I do for inspiration.

Ok so let’s have a look at the image that we’ll be using today below.

So I’m going to be using a sort of standard fashion type image, so if you get something similar or you can look at Jon Olsson’s Instagram and choose something similar to him.

As always I get all my free stock images from the likes of Pixabay.com

Lightroom

The first thing that we are going to be doing in our edit process is to capture that qualify Teal and Orange effect that Jon gets in his images, so click into Develop and on the right-hand side you will see the likes of ‘Basic’ etc, well in that immediate section scroll the whole way down until you see ‘Camera Calibration’.

Lightroom

So in that section when you open it up and you will see several sliders available to you, in there you will see Red and Blue.

For Red, you are going to slide the Hue Slider for that the whole way to the right-hand side.

With the Blue Hue Slider, you are going to do the opposite and push it all the way to the left-hand side.

 Lightroom

When you do that you will probably notice that the skin may be very harsh, well the way to fix that is to use the Red Slider below the Hue Slider and slide it to the left a little to kick it back a notch, for me I was able to go to -20 and have it still looks pretty good, so you can see that you don’t have to move it a great deal, just a notch…

I did the same for the Blue Saturation Slider as well as I felt that it was maybe a little too crazy too.

Lightroom

So in Jon Olsson’s images they usually take on a Blue or and Orange feeling, so depending on your image it will lean one way or the other so don’t worry if your image is too blue because you are on the right track.

For me I’m going to have a look at what the Temp Slider does in the Basics Panel just to see what best fits, you can do the same or you can leave it as is if you are happy with what you got.

Lightroom

So I tried the Temp slider and I liked the way it blued out the background but it, unfortunately, dulled the skin out and I really enjoyed having the skin and nice colour of orange.

Lightroom

So to fix this I scanned down a few panels until I got the HSL panel which is below the Tone Curve panel.

Open that panel up and you will notice in the menu at the top of it there are a few options there that you can choose from, click on Saturation.

Now, this will be entirely based upon your personal likes but remember to keep it sort of similar to what we are trying to achieve which is to edit in the style of Jon Olsson.

The sliders that I moved were the Red, Orange and Yellow sliders.

For me,

Red +100

Orange +80

Yellow +25, and I was very happy with the results I got.

Lightroom

If at this point you think maybe the is something off with your blues feel free to go through the same process with the Aqua and Blue slider in that HSL Saturation section.

I would say in total I played around with these sliders for about 6 minutes total, but keep this in mind, unless you are getting paid feel free to mess around with the editing until you feel it looks correct and eventually if you have not gotten it already you will start to develop a feel for when something looks good, it will take time but when you continuously look over other photographers work like me you will develop it too.

Lightroom

See you in part 2!

How to edit in the Instagram style of Toni Mahfud in Photoshop

Hello! hi there, hope you are well and happy to see you here for another Photoshop Tutorial, so for today I want to take a look at the Photographer Toni Mahfud, I follow a good few of these Photographers on Instagram and for style I think you should too if you have an account so you can keep up to date with current/recent(ish) trends, I find a lot of these types of Photographers not only good for inspiration to how an image could look in terms of applying the styles to just normal editing but also for photo manipulations/composites.

Ok so Toni I would say is more of an art based photographer, his work has a lot of creative ideas in there but today we’ll just be focusing in on his editing style as best I can figure it out.

Cool, so check out my image for today…

Photoshop

So you don’t just have to use this type of image, if you like you can apply it to any image you like, If you take a sec to check the photographer up on Instagram you can even copy the types of images that he uses.

This type of editing really brings out the beautiful browns in the highlights and the blues and purples in the shadows, it’s a good mix, so without any further intro’ing let’s get actually started.

So first let’s create a new copy of our image by going to Layer – Duplicate Layer and click on OK.

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Make sure that you click on the new layer that has just appeared in your layers panel to the right-hand side! it will be named background copy.

Ok so when you get that sorted you will want to add an adjustment layer, so an adjustment layer is an edit, but it will become a layer on its own just like the image, you will be able to go back at any stage and re-edit when you use adjustment layers, if you don’t then the edit you make will be permanent so it’s better to always use adjustment layers.

So click on Brightness/Contrast, and what we’re going to do here is darken the dark’s and lighten the lights.

Photoshop

So when the little adjustment panel appears with the two sliders on it slide the two of them to the right, the edits will be determined on your image, I got away with +25 for the Brightness and 45 for the Contrast [Shadows/Darks]

My only rule of thumb here would be don’t make the image too bright that it gets all blown out and you start to affect the detail and the same pretty much goes for the dark’s as well but you have a little bit more give with those.

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Next let’s sharpen the image up a little bit, to do this re-click on the duplicate layer again and then go to Filter – Sharpen – Sharpen

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Doing this once should be enough.

You can zoom in and check as you do this by first using the bracket keys on your keyboard, if the image becomes too pixelated then you have gone too far to take a step back, this you can do by holding Ctrl + Alt then hitting (Z)

Next, let’s open up a Curves Adjustment Layer.

Image – Adjustments – Curves

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Ok so for this listen up because it might be a little confusing at first.

When you open curves you will see a graph appear with a line through it, at the very bottom left-hand corner, click on the line and drag it up a little [first you might want to look at my example image below], OK then click and drag the line at the first box on the graphs top right and drag it down a little, now click on the very middle of the entire graph and drag the line up a little then drag the line down at the very first corner of the top right hand sides box, then lastly click the very corner of the entire graph and pull it down.

You basically want your graph to look like my graph below, don’t worry about being totally perfectly accurate, we have room to manoeuvre here so you’re good!

Click Ok when you’re done!

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Ok so at this point we’re going to open up a new adjustment layer and this time we’re going to choose Color Balance.

When that is open you will see 3 sliders with 6 colours labelled.

You will also notice that there is a setting above that for Tone.

Shadows

Midtones

Highlights

So we are going to be playing around with these.

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Click the circle beside Highlights so that you have Highlights on, then we are going to add some warmth to the highlights,

so make the number for the highlights about -25, this will add yellow and browns into the image.

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Next I’m going to go through the same process for the Mid-tones and the Shadows only this time I’m not going to add yellow, I’m going to add blue, so for the mid tones I’m going to slide the slider until the number is about 20, then for the shadows I’m going to make the number around 10.

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Now your image may be a little bit dark at this stage but don’t worry we’ll be fixing that very very soon!

Now we are going to group everything together.

To do this

Click the top layer, hold shift and click the duplicate layer…

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You will now see all the layers minus the very bottom one has now been highlighted, next hold Ctrl and key in the letter (G) and you will see all your layers are now in a nice neat little folder.

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Next right click on the folder and click on Duplicate Group.

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You will see a copy appear, when you do right click on that and then click on Merge Group.

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You will now have a fresh copy of your image that if you wish can do a bit of retouching on if you are not 100% happy with whatever it is from the original if it’s a portrait it may have some blemishes or whatever.

Anyway on with the editing…

Now click where it says ‘Window’ in the top menu and then click on Adjustments.

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The adjustments panel will appear on the right.

Look at all the little icons there, see the bottom row, click on the 4th one across which when you leave your mouse cursor over it, it will say ‘Create a new Gradient Map adjustment layer’

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Now everything will turn black and white/should turn…if it doesn’t turn the same colour as my example image below all good, because ti really doesn’t matter what colour, to be honest.

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Now in the panel double click on the gradient bar that goes from dark one side to light the other because we’re going to change that to the one that is a dark purple navy and orange, it should be the 5th one across in the presets selections.

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Another panel should now be showing, you will see the bar with the colour and at the bottom of that bar at each side, you will see tabs that you are able to double click on so that you can change the colour.

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I’m going to do this to both the colours and I’m going to change them to more of a darker navy purple by clicking the colours I want on the large square.

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Then I’m going to change the orange to more of a dirty brown based yellow by sliding the side slider up a little until I reach the colour and then hit Ok.

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Next, I’m going to change the blend mode!

The way to do this is if you look in the layers panel you will see the word ‘normal’ click that and a big drop style panel will appear…when that does look for the option that says ‘screen’ and click that.

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Photoshop

If the filter is too strong you can reduce the opacity of gradient layer, I had to change mine to 70%, I probably could have gone a little bit further but for now I’ll leave it at that, after all, I have adjustment layer, don’t you ๐Ÿ™‚

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Now, before continuing, let’s see one of the highlights of this effect. Take eyes for example; if you look on Toni Mahfuds eyes they really stand out, this is due to dodging and burning, so if you are working with a portrait remember to add special attention to the eyes and match those as best you can with Toni’s.

So the way to do dodging and burning the none destructive way, meaning you don’t just do it directly on to your image…but you create a new layer above everything else, so do that now.

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When the panel appears you will see several options in there, you will notice that it has a built-in blend mode simply labelled ‘Mode’

Click on that and choose ‘Overlay’

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When you do this you will see that there is a little box below that has now appeared that will let you fill the layer with 50% grey.

Click on that box.

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When you press ok it will look like nothing has happened… but it has, you know has a see-through layer that you can work on.

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So now we Dodge first, so look at the example image below, and click on what I have which is the Dodge Tool, this will work highlights.

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At the top menu you will see Exposure, change that to about 50%, if it’s too strong down worry because you can hit Ctrl + Alt and then Z and you can re-adjust.

So what you do with this tool is to concentrate on the highlights and light areas, so think of the edges etc and then you simply just paint over then, you will noticeably see them now starting to stand out a lot more.

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Next below the Dodge Tool you will see the Burn Tool and yes, this will do the opposite, so you use this over the shadows and dark areas, so do the exact same as you just did except the opposite!

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Cool so after spending about 5-10 minutes you should be done with the dodge and burn process, you can take longer if you wish and remember that if everything looks too harsh at the end of dodging and burning you can simply drop the opacity of the layer until it looks respectable.

Now we’re going to create a lighting effect so create another new layer on top of everything.

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Click on the Paint Bucket Tool as shown below, choose black as your colour and fill your entire screen with black.

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Now go to Filter – Render – Lens Flare.

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Change the brightness to about 120-150% and click OK.

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Then as we did before change the blend mode of that layer in the layers panel to Screen.

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Your image should now be looking pretty good! and there are only a few more little steps that we need to take to complete or image.

The next one is to blur that lighting effect a little so it’s not so harsh.

I do this by going to Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur

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When the panel appears to change it to around 10 Pixels which should be enough and click OK.

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If you don’t like the position of your lighting effect you can key in Ctrl + T for free transform and adjust the image as you see fit.

Keep in mind that when you hold shift you can change the layers size to whatever works without it warping out of shape.

Hit return when you’re happy.

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Now the last little touch that we are going to do is to add some noise also known as adding grain to your image.

We use the Noise filter for this, so go to Filter – Noise – Add Noise.

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When you see the panel that appears change it to around 5, this may change due to the size of your image but if it starts to look like it has a subtle enough amount of grain then you are good!

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Awesome, hope you enjoyed and hope your image is looking amazing!

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How To Make Your Wildlife Photos Amazing Using LR: Fur Details

So welcome back to the last part of this Lightroom tutorial, so we left off our image were we had sorted the background out so it wasn’t so prominent etc, just basic little adjustments to our image so improve it a light little bit compared to what we probably had, so after I sorted out the irises I want to move on to some sharpening.

Remember with retouching and editing, you want to be subtle, all these changes should be just little adjustments to improve the image and no push it over board so it ends up looking blown out and unrealistic, having the image still remain realistic is paramount…a little tip I was taught was to push things too far while editing and then peal it back until it starts to look normal again, you can do this easily with sliders at any stage of the process.

So the parts that I want to sharpen I feel would be the general facial features that stand out such as the eyes again, the nose and mount and the ears.

Actually now just looking at my image I think we could add the little paws to that list as well!

Lightroom

Ok so we’re going to create a New Brush so hit (K) on your keyboard and double click on the word New that you will see in the options panel, then to the left of that double click again on the word ‘effect’ so it resets all the sliders.

Ok when you have everything reset then you can click on the Sharpness Slider and move it to the right, I have mine set at 50 which should be enough.

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If you wish you can click on the little box at the bottom of your image that has ‘Show Selected Mask Overlay’ when you do that you will be able to see the areas that you have applied the sharpening to.

This option is good for when you want to be a lot more accurate with your brush work, as you can see from my image because of the nature of it I didn’t have to be too super accurate, I was able to spill my brushwork over into the background as it’s more blurred out, but there may be areas that run next to each other that you want to be very careful with so this would really help out in those types of situations.

Also keep in mind that the holding the space bar will give you the option to move around your image if you are zoomed in when you see the little hand icon appear, and the bracket keys will allow you to change the size of your brush also.

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If at any stage you make a mistake just hold the Ctrl button in on your keyboard and hit (Z) to undo.

Another awesome feature that Lightroom provides you while working with the Brush Tool is you can hold Alt on your keyboard which will now turn the Brush into an eraser and with the red mask on your will be able to easily see what you are removing.

Note that when you have Flow up to 100 that will be the max strength for erasing and it will do the quickest job, but if you want to removing things a little more subtly you can reduce the flow and add Feathering.

Another little extra you can do here to the sharpening is to increase the Clarity slider just above the Sharpening slider and then when done you can click on the ‘Show Selected Mask Overlay’ again to reveal your image and you will be able to see the cool changes that you made with the sharpening.

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After you have all this done and you think you might want to go back and just readjust to see if you can do better you can simply just mess with those 2 sliders again.

So that’s pretty much what I would do as a standard to nature photography, I think as a basic editing process when it comes to all nature photography this will pretty much get your images looking really good! Hope you enjoyed and hope you learned a good few tricks to apply to your own editing and images.

How To Make Your Wildlife Photos Amazing Using LR: Catching Eyes

Good to see you back for more Lightrooming, so I’m guess by now that you have sorted out the background on your images in the last Tutorial and it’s a little less hardcore and pushed back a little.

Well good, also keep in mind that if you’re feeling experimental that, that Brush Tool technique can be used for any other those other slider options that are in that panel, so you could add contrast or desaturated etc etc, same technique, different slider so keep that in mind if you can.

Like before I just added some strong green tint to the green grass in the foreground just as an example and it looks ok so I’ll keep it.

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Ok well lets move on along then shall we, up next we’re going to sharpen our image up a little and reduce some of the noise that may appear, but we’re only going to be doing it on the specific areas that I want, I’m not worried about sharpening the background or some of the foreground, instead I’m going to be concentrating on the fox itself and the immediate area around this little creature.

So first we’re going to reduce noise and smooth the image out just a little, so activate your Brush Tool once again, and in the Brush panel you will see the word ‘Effect’ double click on the word and it will reset all the slider in your panel back to default.

Now look down the sliders until you see noise, depending on if your image has noise or not or if it has a lot or not you may have to experiment a little with the amount you want to add to your slider, after a few tries I decided that I was happy with 31% on the slider, you may be more or your may be less.

So in short what I did was zoom into my image holding Ctrl on my keyboard the hitting the plus and minus key on your keyboard, that way you can zoom in and out quickly, if you feel you have too much noise reduction, i.e. the image goes blurred then you just use Ctrl Z to back peddle, if you did 2-3 clicks with your mouse then just math it with your keystrokes to get back to base.

I’m just going to quickly go over my animal image and the ground around it, I don’t really have to take too much care with this as I have my feather set to full.

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Next let’s move on, in the Brush panel there you will see the word ‘New’ click on that for a new brush, then double click on effect again and you will be set for a new edit.

So in my image I have these areas that I’m not really happy with that I juts want to quickly get rid of, you will see them on my image on the forehead of the fox where it is showing up darker.

For areas like that I’ll just use my Brush technique with a tiny bit of the exposure slider [slide to the right] and lighten those areas.

Next I’m going to play with he Clarity and Sharpness sliders, I’m going to target the ears, eyes and nose of the animal to really bring those out.

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Now to finish off for this part of the tutorial we’re going to be taking our Brush technique and we’re going to be applying it to the eyes, sure you could just do the standard stuff that we’ve been doing or we could take another step into Lightroom advancement, so create a new brush again just like we did before by clicking new and then double clicking effect so reset everything.

So beside effect you will see the word custom, click on the to reveal a drop down box, when that appears scan down until you see the option Iris Enhance!

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Then all you got to do is zoom right in on those eyes and using the brush just paint over them to really bring them out and have them looking nice.

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So that’s it for this part and in part 3 we’ll be finishing off our image, see you then.

How To Make Your Wildlife Photos Amazing Using LR: Basic Focus

Hello all, and welcome to this cool new Lightroom Tutorial.

As the title says today we are going to be looking at Wildlife Photography and how to make our Images look amazing!

So it’s summer here in the northern hemisphere so I’m getting that adventure bug and I want to go out into the wilderness and capture some wildlife photography, so I’m thinking this is the best time to show you some cool ways to edit your images.

PS: when I say wilderness I’m talking about around the back of my house, so don’t worry I don’t expect you to go on any sort of a safari just yet, if all you want to do it take some pictures of your pets and try these editing techniques out the cool, you are more than welcome to do so.

So this is the image I’ll be using today for my demonstration, it is not my image I only wish I was as good a photographer, as always I got my image from pixels.com free, I highly recommend sites such as these.

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So I just think this is an absolutely awesome image, but what could I do to make it…I’ll not say better, but have more of my own touch to it.

Let’s get to it, so the first thing that I’m going to do to this image is to go to the right of my Lightroom program to where I see the basic panel, then I’m going to make these standard edits I do in Lightroom with basically all my images, this is usually my first step in editing.

Ok so look to where you see the Highlights and Shadows.

Minus the Highlights right down to -100

Increase the Shadows all the way up to +100

Next hold Alt on your keyboard and click on Whites, you will see your screen go completely Black, what you do here is slide your slider until you not longer see little white pixels or there abouts…then you do the same with the black slider, which will be the opposite, your screen will turn white so you’ll want to slide until the black pixels are no longer visible or again there abouts.

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Cool, our image should be looking a little bit better already.

Ok so what I’m going to be doing now is to do my standard image editing formula, what I’m going to do is edit in a way so that I make the parts of the image I don’t want people so notice so much less noticeable and then edit the parts I want to stand out a bit more and make then more prominent.

I have to do these separately and I’m going to show you how.

Ok so cool, check it out, the first thing in my formula is to make the background a little less noticeable.

The way I do this is to remove contrast from the background, when it has a high level of contrast your background will tend to stick right out very strong so it will take away from our subject, unfortunately.

To do this first press (K) on your Keyboard, this will activate your Brush Tool.

You will then see a new set of settings appear, make sure that everything here is set to zero except for the contrast slider, slide it all the way to the left so it is set at -100.

You can change the size of your brush as you go along, you can do this easy by just keying the bracket keys on your keyboard.

Next, if you want to as an option you can use the mask option, which will temporarily paint red over the area that you will be affecting.

You find this option at the bottom left, just can along until you see a little empty tick box with the words “Show Selected Mask Overlay”

Then you just paint over the background, it’s that easy, but be careful around the areas you don’t want to be affected, you will have to take a little time there, you can overlap a little bit though, when you’re done just unchecked the box and see what the results are, if you don’t like it you can click on Reset and then you can mess with the Feather and Flow to see what those results would look like.

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So far my background has been pushed back a little bit so I’m happy with that.

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More to come in part two!

Awesome Hidden Gems in Lightroom: Sun-kissed Scenes

Hello! hope you’re all having a good day or night out there in Photo Editing land, and with that being said let’s get the 4th part of our Lightroom Tutorial going and finish off, so far we have 4 awesome gems not often used by the casual Lightroomer so I hope you get a good bit of ground out of those techniques.

Ok so if you haven’t already opened up your Lightroom.

So check out the interesting picture I have for my lesson today…ugh I just got a shiver when I said lesson, reminded me of school days stuck in my chair, let’s call it a transfer of awesome knowledge instead!

Get something similar or just any picture that you would like to use yourself, can be one of your own if you’d like, this transfer of knowledge can apply to basically any picture so whatever floats your boat is good!

Lightroom

So we’re going to be dealing with Split Toning here if you don’t know what this is, then click here on this [link] to get a bit more information on it.

The look I’m going for in this image is going to be an old kinda gritty urban film look, I think with the picture on the wall it would look really well with this kind of look to it.

Ok, so you will find the Split Toning Tool in the right-hand side where the basic panel is, you’ll find it a few options below, take a scan now and see if you can find it.

If not then check below, but try to keep it in your mind for again.

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Cool, so you got it? nice let’s keep going, so what you can do is start with the highlights first and go to the Hue Slider which will be the first one that you see on top.

When you click on the slider you can then hold the Alt key on your keyboard or Command if you are using Apple, what this will do is it will temporarily increase the Saturation up to its full amount and you will see a very strong colour overlayed on your entire image.

This is just to help you see what colour you are actually using, so don’t worry your image will not look like this at the very end of this process unless you want it to be which I will show you how.

So holding Alt on your keyboard click on your slider and move it around left and right until you see what colour you would like to get within your highlights.

Also just a side note here is to think about colour theory and what colours go together, so you could have for example a yellow tone to your Highlights and then a purple tone to your shadows, other combinations would be red and green and blue and yellow, but I’m sure you can search in your search engine for cool gritty colour combinations.

When you’re happy you can then just click on the saturation slider that you will see just below the Hue slider, then you can manually use the Saturation slider to get the highlights to a reasonable amount that you think looks good by sliding left and right.

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So when you are totally happy with what colour your have and the strength of you colour tone in your highlights it’s time to think about what you are going to do for the shadows.

Scan down just below the sliders that we worked with and there you’ll see the shadow options, these work in the exact same way only this time you need to focus your eyes on the dark areas.

So you go through the exact same process with the shadows by holding the Alt key and seeing what the main colour would look like, then when you’re satisfied you bring it back with the saturation slider below the shadows Hue slider.

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And you’re done! remember that you can go back to the sliders and adjust while the image is still up to test out more colours for the final image.

Good, I hope you really enjoyed this Tutorial and I hope you learned loads, keep up the Lightroom work and in no time you’ll be and expert!

Awesome Hidden Gems in Lightroom: Improving Vegetation in Landscapes

Hello, and welcome to part 3, I take it you’re ready to learn some cool new things for Lightroom, well in this Tutorial you certainly will so let’s get going and have a look at the next Image I’m going to be Editing.

One thing that I want to add here is that this gem is only for Lightroom 5.5 above as this is the model this gem was introduced into.

For this Tutorial you are going to be needing an image that is sort of similar to my image below, so what we’re looking for in the image is to have a nice sky available in it to edit on.

Lightroom

Ok so by now I hope you are very familiar with the Graduated Filter because that’s what we are going to be using again for this Tutorial, so go ahead a grab that tool again.

Now click just below your image and drag out a Gradient sort of similar to what I have below, you don’t have to be 100% perfect with this.

Once you’ve done that then click on your Exposure slider and drag it to the left a little to darken the image somewhat, you should notice the image darken at the top.

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You can also mess up the other sliders just like I have below.

So for this I just increased everything in the slider below to the Defringe slider, I slide those all to the right, the only one that I slide slightly to the left was the Saturation slider.

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Ok so you should have something pretty close to what I have above, this is not set in stone, it is only again as in the previous Tutorials supposed to simulate a botched editing job or at the very least an over-enthusiastic editing job.

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What has happened here is that I edited the sky the way I wanted it to be but the Graduated Filter has also covered over the trees to the right of my image etc too which has sucked the colour right out of the image, unfortunately.

But there is a way to fix this, if you look in the panel you will see where it says Mask *New *Edit *Brush 

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So click on the [where it says Brush] and you will now see that a small panel has just appeared below your sliders.

You will see that it says Brush: A B and Erase.

Ok so go ahead and click on erase, now bare in mind that this is not going to erase your image, it is just going to erase the Graduated Filter.

You will see that there is a few sliders below where you clicked Erase, don’t worry about the size slider because you can change this at anytime during the edit buy clicking on the bracket keys on your keyboard.

Feather I would have set at full but it really depends on what you are editing, you may need less Feather and a sharper brush so adjust this as per the situation.

Flow just leave as is until I wanted to start to blend, I would have this at max most of the time but I would reduce it as I blended around the edges to soften them down a little because even with full Feather added you can sometimes get a bit of a sharp edge which will stand out and we defiantly don’t want this.

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Before you start to edit you can hit the letter (O) on your keyboard so that you can see the mask, so click on (O) now and you will see the red mask filter that now covers where your Gradient is.

Now using the Brush and what I explained you can start to paint over the areas on for example your trees where you see the red, as you do this you will no doubt need to change up the settings such as size etc for your Brush.

Remember to reduce the Flow so you can soften those edges.

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And when you are done you can hit (O) again to get rid of the red mask over your image and your image should be looking pretty good.

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Next up and last is Part 4 coming soon.

Awesome Hidden Gems in Lightroom: Get the Most Out of Graduated Filter

Hi, let’s get back to it, so we left off our Lightroom Tutorial by opening up the Graduated Filter, do you remember how?… give it a few seconds to think, if you can’t then look below our image below.

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Press the Keyboard shortcut (M)

Now we can get to work on our Image,

So the way we would usually use the Graduated Filter would be to just go to your image and drag it up or down and then adjust from there.

But the way we are going to do it is to go to one of the corners of your image, doesn’t matter which, I’m going to go from the bottom right as it’s the closest to me and I’m right-handed, you can start from the top or bottom, right or left whatever you like.

Then when you do that you click as close to the edge as you can, and then drag it off of the actual image, you will see in my image below at the bottom right my gradient is off the actual picture.

Lightroom

When you hit (O) on your keyboard you will see a mask appear over your image which will better help you see what is going on.

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What this indicates is that the Graduated Filter is affecting the entire image equally.

Ok, you can hit (O) again to turn it off.

When we do that go to where you see the Shadows and Highlights on the right-hand side just like we had done in the first part of the Tutorial.

Then you can decrease the Highlights and increase the shadows just like we did before to get a little bit more range and detail out of our image.

Lightroom

One other little thing you could do, when you go to the bottom where you have your Graduated Filter you will see that there is a little circle there.

If you right-click on the circle you will see a little drop down appear where you will see an option to duplicate which mean you can add another Gradient Filter to your image, a copy of the one we just did, it may or may not add a little bit more range but I think one should be enough.

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Ok cool, let’s move to the next hidden Gem.

For this get a nice image that has a cool sky in it.

Lightroom

Ok, so let’s get the Graduated Filter up again (M)

When you do that click in the middle of the sky and drag it out so that it covers the entire sky.

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So just to see what happens here we are going to go over to our sliders and mess them up a little, don’t be afraid to just click and drag them in whatever direction you like for this, we’ll fix it all up very soon.

What we are just simulating here is a botched editing job, something I’m sure I am very familiar with ๐Ÿ˜€

So mess with the Temp, Tint, Highlights, Shadows and Contrast and really prove a point that you ‘messed up’

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So now you look at it after a second away and you think that you filter is way too strong.

What you could do is you could play around again with your sliders to try to reduce the strength of the filter or! you could do something a little less destructive and troublesome.

So the other thing that you could do is to place your mouse cursor over the circle in the middle of the Graduated Filter, you will know when you’ve hit the sweet spot when your image suddenly turns red with a mask.

Just leave your cursor there for a sec until that shows up.

Lightroom

When that happens you can hold Alt on your Keyboard and you will see a slider indicator appear.

What you can now do is drag it either right or left to increase or decrease the strength of the Filter, think of this kinda like or pretty much like using opacity in Photoshop, if you look at the right side where the sliders are you will see that the sliders will move out or towards the center proportionally so if you then need to go back and add some tiny little adjustments then you can.

More to come in Part 3.

Awesome Hidden Gems in Lightroom: Deleting Power Lines

Hi all, welcome to a brand new Sleeklens Lightroom Tutorial.

And in this Tutorial, I’m going to be showing you some awesome hidden gems in Lightroom that I think are overlooked.

I’ve talked to friends about these sorts of hidden gems, just sharing ideas and stuff and I’m always surprised when I mention a few of these and my friends are like “awe cool, never knew that!”

So let’s get into it and start with the first one.

So my Image here looks cool but I would like to remove the two power lines that are below the main one with the birds on it, my aim is to have the image look more isolated for Photo aesthetics reasons.

Lightroom

So what I’m going to use for this is the Spot Removal Tool.

You will find it on the right-hand side of your screen, look for the historiography, that’s the box with all the little colored looking mountains in it.

When you find that look just below it and you’ll see six various little icons just above the basics panel, the one that we are going to use is the second one across.

If all fails and you can’t find it then I permit you to cheat by using the Keyboard Shortcut by pressing ‘Q’ on your keyboard.

Lightroom

With this Tool what you can do is to just click on the starting point of whatever line it is that you want to remove and drag it along using your mouse, now this can work well in many situations but you would need a pretty steady hand for most of them which at times might not be so easy unless you are an elite master mouse user ๐Ÿ™‚

But an easy way to do this there is! as a very smart master Yoda type once taught me, namely the internet…

So what you do is you click at the very start of the bit you want to remove, you will then see that there is a little-blurred circle with another circle indicated with a white border around it, this is the area that the Tool uses to clone over the area that you want to hide, when you hover over it you will be able to see a little hand appear that you can use to click and move the area designated for cloning use…

You can also enlarge etc.

Lightroom

Ok so with that little brief cleared up what next? Well, all you have to do now that you have made your first click is to go to the other end of the object, hold shift on your keyboard and then click it.

Lightroom

You will now see that the entire line has been cloned over, and cool, look how good that works, very quick, very underused and very easy so I hope you remember to apply it when you can.

Lightroom

Ok cool, let’s move to our next Lightroom Gem.

This next Gem is to do with when you are editing an image and you have completely maxed out the slider that you’re using.

So if you look at the image below you will see that I am in the Basics Panel where most of my editing options are housed, my Highlights and Shadows sliders have both been maxed out as you will see.

Lichess

I would love to be able to see if I can get just a little bit more out of them just to see if it makes any improvements at all to my image, it looks good and all as is but I can’t go any further with the sliders to experiment if I get any more improvements…apparently…

Well, you can and this is how!

So the way to do this is to use the Graduated Filter in a little bit of a different way than what you would usually use it.

Go to where you got our last Tool…the Spot Removal Tool and look over two more icons to the fourth one across and click on it.

As before there is a cheat option that you can use by clicking (M) on the keyboard to activate it.

For now we’ll leave it here for this part and continue in Part 2, but for now, at least we know where the Tool is, so let everything that we have learned so far sink in.

You can just close Lightroom and everything will be saved as is.

How to Better Organize Using Auto Stacking in Lightroom: Capture Time

Hi all, welcome back and are you ready to go into a little bit more detail on Auto Stacking, we’ll call this the advanced portion of our Tutorial but in reality it’s not and you’ll pick it up just fine.

Which actually leads me to a little word or advice, I tend to keep a small journal with a list of specific techniques etc that I find useful, so if the technique fits the project then you could have a folder filled with word documents with different jobs noted on them, such as Color Correction, how to change to Black and White or How to Retouch Portraits for example, then when you come to a certain scenario that you have to do you can immediately open your folder and follow your bullet points if that’s the way you wish to have them.

If found that by doing this I was learning through repetition and I was getting work done at the same time! I highly recommend this.

But anyway back to our tutorial.

So use what you remember from part one to get the little time slider panel up and if you can’t remember then go back and have a quick look until your screen looks just like the example image below.

Lightroom

Depending on the amount of images you have when you slide the slider you will see on the bottom of that little panel the number of images that will be within that time frame that you have chosen.

So for mine in the image above you can see that I have 16 minutes for mine and you will see that there is only 1 image available for that stack, the more images that you have and the closer they were taken then the number will be greater there.

When you are happy with the amount of images within your time stack then all your have to do is just click where it says ‘Stack’ at the bottom of your popped up panel.

Now you will be back onto the normal main screen, don’t worry you may think nothing has happened but it has and I’ll show you now…

Right click once again on the image on your screen and you will see the all familiar by now panel appear where we clicked to stack in the first place.

Click on Staking but this time you don’t go to ‘Auto-Stacking by Capture Time’ which we did first, this time you click on ‘Collapse All Stacks’

Lightroom

You will now see your screen do a few computer freak out flutters and the thumbnails will now collapse.

Lightroom

So I had mine set for 16 minutes which meant that my images were added together, but if I were to do this with say 30 seconds or a minute between the images then it would categorize them into separate folders.

Now image you had 100 images that you had taken over the span of 1 hour.

When you do this technique and say you had your timer set to 1 minute then when you click on ‘Collapse All Stacks’ depending of how spread out the time is between images, you could have 60 folders with several images between them in there which will make it a whole lot easier when you are trying to look for specific images.

So what you would do now is, look at your thumb nail images and see if the little thumb nail has the ‘type’ of image, that being, type means if you were taking a lot of images of a specific thing like a flower, or person you will see then in the little thumbnail at the bottom.

Then what you would do from there is to click on the little icon in your thumb nail that looks like little stacked squares, it will have the number on it remember with the amount of image you have with in that folder, when you click on the stack icon it will expand that subgroup out and you will be able to go through all your images with in it as normal.

You will see on my example image below it will say 2 of 2 for my other image when I expand.

Lightroom

When you are finished you can just click on the icon again you used to expand to collapse the collection again.

How to Better Organize Using Auto Stacking in Lightroom

Hi all, I’m back again with another Lightroom Tutorial for you, and today we are going to be looking at Auto Stacking.

So a lot of you out there when you’re on a shoot or whatever is using high-speed continuous shutter, which means in case you don’t know is that every time you go to take an image when you press on the button it will take several images in rapid succession, so at the end of the day you will have hundreds of images.

But just to not get too complicated for this tutorial I’m only going to be using two images, but you can image how many you could have or you may actually be using lots of your own cool images for this tutorial.

So image you were taking photos of these kids in motion and you are firing off 10 a second looking for a certain expression on one of their faces or funny action they take, at the end of the shoot that sure is a lot to go through.

Lightroom

So if you look right down at the bottom of your Lightroom you will see what is called the film strip…that’s the little thumbnail images of your photos there.

We are going to have to create a collection folder for these, so click on the first one, then hold Ctrl and click on the last one, in my case it’s the one just next to the first one I clicked, if you have more then just this one image then Ctrl-click on the very last one in the film strip.

Lightroom

Next, you will see on the left-hand side the Collections tab, click on the plus symbol on the top right-hand side of that little panel and then click on ‘Create Collection’

Lightroom

Next name it whatever you want, if this is being done properly you would have to name it something suitable for the project.

Then click ‘Create’ and your collection folder will be created.

Lightroom

You will now see it in the collections tab just as you can see from the image below.

Lightroom

Ok so now that you are on the folder, if not just give it a little click, then go down to the images on the film strip and click on whichever one you want for now.

Then go to the main image that is in the middle of the screen.

when you have clicked on this then right click on the image and you will see a few panels with options appear, look for the one that says ‘Stacking’ click on that and another panel will appear on the right-hand side, look at the bottom of that panel where it says ‘Auto-Stack by Capture Time…’

Lightroom

When you do that you will see a little box appear.

Lightroom

So what this is asking you for is the time between the stacks, so what that means if you can image is if you were walking around and you seen an interesting subject that you wanted to take a photo of you take your photos, say you took 20 or 30 within a minute especially if your camera is rapidly shooting 10 photos a second or whatever not that it has too because the default is set to 1 minute and I’m sure you can take plenty within that time.

So you take your photos and then you move on to another subject and the time in between could be a few minutes or so, so when you click on your image an auto stack it, it will then group together all the images that you took within the minute that, that image was taken.

You don’t just have to choose the minute option you can also use the slide bar to increase or decrease the time, you’ll probably be able to look at some of the images if you were out on a day shoot and think “I only remember spending a little bit of time here, so, therefore, you could set your timer to 30 seconds or so.

Ok so we’ll leave this tutorial here and in part two we will go into more detail and explore the options that are available to us.

See you in part 2.

How To Edit Like The Instagram Photographer Shokuuun In Lightroom: Final Edits

Hi there and welcome back to part two, I’m sure you are ready to get started as I am, so get your Lightroom program ready and let’s get on with our Tutorial.

So far we have messed around with the basics sliders settings and got a pretty nice feel to our Image as is, but there is still a good bit left to do to we get our full completed final piece.

One of those things I want to try out is the Tone Curve Tool, you will find it under Basic.

When you open it you will see a square with a line running through it.

Now you could grab on the line and drag to see what it does, if you do this you can hit Ctrl + Z to undo if you want to try.

You can also hit the little icon at the bottom right of your Tone Curves panel, it looks like your histogram but has a dot on it, if you click that you will see the sliders for the Tone Curve Tool.

Or!

We could just try to see what the presets do…so look to see the word Linear and click on that, you will now see two other options to try, I was happy with a medium but your image may look better with strong.

Lightroom

Cool now we’ve done that let scroll down a little more until you see HSL.

When you find that look at the submenu in there, it has the words ‘Hue’ etc on it, click where it says ‘All’

Lightroom

Ok so with this panel you’ll see all the different color sliders, so with the top one Hue, if something is too strong in the color you can look for the color and then reduce or the opposite, of course, is true also.

So I still feel like I’ve too much Green in my image so I’m going to reduce that, so I’ll slide Green and Aqua to the left until I’m happy with the results and they’re bluer.

The second one is Saturation, so in my image, you will see there is a lot of yellow and green, these are the colors that I’m going to try to get rid of totally, so I’m going to look for those color sin my saturation to slide to the left and reduce.

The next is Luminance, so now you’re doing the opposite and finding the colors that you do want, the blues and turquoises etc and you are going to be adding a little Luminance to these.

To drum it all up in a nutshell, I want a good contrast between the shadows, highlights and the blue tones, so anything resembling white will look a nice white/cream colour, the shadows will be a nice dark saturated colour leaning towards grey and the blues will pop as well as all the little details and patterns.

So as long as you know the general rule you should be able to just play around and figure this out for yourself fingers crossed.

If all fails use my images below as a reference, but this is something that has to be kind of ingrained in yourself.

Lightroom

Lightroom

This all may take a little while to do so just keep at it, these sliders are all non-destructive, so in Photo Editing terms this means that at any stage of the editing process you will be able to go back and move the sliders around for different results.

So if you were looking to get a few different images out of the one image that you are using then you could make all your initial edits and then after you have exported the file onto your desktop or where ever you are planning on saving it and then go back into your image in Lightroom and change up all the settings, then you would just repeat the export process which I will show you at the end of this tutorial and rename the file.

Ok so that’s it I’m happy to leave it here.

Hope you learned a load and continue to learn and get better! it’s a lot easier than you might think ๐Ÿ™‚

See you in the next tutorial.

Lightroom

Lightroom

SaveSave

How To Edit Like The Instagram Photographer Shokuuun In Lightroom

Hi everyone, today we’re going to be learning in this Lightroom Tutorial how to edit just like the Instagram Photographer Shokuuun.

So go check him out and have a look at some of his underwater images as this is the style we will be going for.

So first up we need to get a suitable Image to do this with…so I’m going to get one of my underwater images and add it into Lightroom by creating a folder on my desktop for easy access.

Name it whatever and name your image whatever you want to call it, just as long as you know what it’s called when you go to find it.

Ok so open up your Lightroom and make sure you are in Library, you will see the tab for this on the top right beside ‘Develop’

Then look at the bottom left and you will see the word ‘Import’ click on that to open up a panel.

Lightroom

You will see ‘Select a source’ right click on that to open up another panel and look down it until you see Other Source, click that.

Lightroom

The find your file as you would on the computer normally and select it.

Once you see the screen as it below looks to the right bottom hand side and you’ll see the word ‘Import’ click that.

Lightroom

Now go back to where you saw ‘Library’ on the top right-hand side and click on the word beside it which is as said previous ‘Develop’

Cool and we’re in.

Photoshop

Now what we’ll be using is on the right-hand side, so look over there now and you’ll see a load of drop down tabs, keep this in mind because that’s where all your editing tools are housed.

So what we’ll be doing here first is to reduce the green in the image as they are a bit overpowering.

To do that we will have to open up the Basic Panel on the right-hand side.

At the top, you will see Tint.

So to get rid of the Green you will have to push that slider to the right/over to the purple.

When you do this you will see those green drain away.

You want to get it to a nice realistic blue colour similar to my image below and don’t worry so much about perfection because we will always be able to go back a change tamper with this slider again at any stage.

Lightroom

Now I want to warm the image up just a little bit so that the rocks and if your image has sand showing it will look more lively.

To do this look above Tint and you’ll see Temp, slide that more to the right towards the yellow side, you only need to give this a little touch so I would say around +10 will do the trick.

Next, I’m going to be playing around with…

Contrast – I’ll just bring it up a little bit, for me I did +26

Highlights – I dropped these a little bit sliding it to the left

Shadows – I increased these significantly

Whites – I decreased significantly

Blacks – ended up at +29

What I’m aiming for here is for a picture that has a lot of details in it and clarity, which is the next slider which I add a +14 to that.

So if you don’t know what to do here in a visual sense as in you don’t know what makes a good image a good image then don’t worry, just loosely copy my numbers on the editor but do note that your image may be very different than mine, so in this case copy but if it doesn’t look good to you then reel it back a little and work with it until you are happy.

Lightroom

Last little touches I’m going to be doing here it to play around with the Vibrance and Saturation.

So I’m going to slide the Vibrance to the right a little bit to strengthen it then I’m going to reduce it with the Saturation sliding that to the left until it looks good.

I just wanted to get a little bit more colour into that big scary fish there.

Lightroom

Ok, you can close up here, just as long as you don’t add any new folders Lightroom will keep this saved as is.

See you in Part 2.

How to Create a Photo Mosaic in Photoshop: Final Touches

Hi again, it’s funny we keep bumping into each other like this…so I guess you’re here for the final part of our Photoshop Mosaic Tutorial then, well good because I want to get it done and I’m sure you do too!

I assume by now you have all of your little 200px by 200px images all transferred over to your main file.

You will notice if you look to the right-hand side that you will have a lot of extra little layers there now, looks kinda messy but don’t worry we’ll soon sort these out and when we’re done it will look nice neat and tidy!

Ok so just to check you have the Auto-Selection checked yeah? just checking in case you may have done some work in between, you’ll see in just a second how important this little action is when we start to duplicate our images.

So there a few ways we can go about duplicating out layers and oh my goodness they would take a long time if you decided to go over to your layers individually and right click to click duplicate layer.

I think this might take you all day, so instead of that, we’re going to do it the fast way.

Here is the reason we have Auto-Select on…

Click on any one of your images and you will see that no matter where it is on the layers stacking order it will be selected so that you can work with it.

Now the quick way to duplicate your image is to hold Alt on your keyboard while you have the arrow key at the top left selected, you will now notice that there are two little arrows, one overlapping the other.

This now enables you to drag out a copy of the image that you have selected.

How cool is that!

So go through each image and do this until you have a new layer (on screen no on the Photoshop layers section just to be clear) of images just below the first one that you see, just like in the example image below.

You will see that I have them all places in different areas to start the mosaic.

When you do this you will notice that when you get really close to the image you want to place your duplicated image beside it will automatically snap the image on to the side of it so there will be a perfect snug fit.

Photoshop

Now do this until I get a solid block on images, 10 across and 10 down, I think that should be enough to give out the image a lot of variety, and don’t worry about using the same image twice beside each other here and there just as long as its significantly randomised.

Photoshop

Now we have to group all the layers together, to do you look over to the right hand side where all your layers are stacked, scroll till you are at the very top and click on that layer.

Now scroll right down to the bottom of your stacked layers, now while holding shift click on the bottom animal layer!

You will now notice that they have all been highlighted minus the very bottom layer which is the layer with our model on it, we don’t want that highlighted so make sure it’s not.

If it is just go through the process again.

Photoshop

Now hit Ctrl + G on your keyboard to group everything together

Photoshop

Now treat the 10×10 image group as a single image, that you can copy just like we did with the original 200×200 images.

Place them about randomly until you have filled up the entire image but just make sure if any over lap that they fit snug.

You can do this by zooming in using the plus and minus keys on your keyboard and then clicked on to that group use the arrow keys to nudge them into place.

Photoshop

When you’re done select all the groups and hit Ctrl + G again to group them all again leaving the bottom layer with the model alone.

Photoshop

Then right click on the new group and click on Merge Group so it becomes one image.

Photoshop

Now we are going to change the blending mode to Soft light.

You will see the little drop down box for this just above your layers on the right hand side, most likely there will be the word ‘Normal’ click on that and find a soft light.

Photoshop

Then the last little touch is to drop the opacity to 80%, you will see this option just beside the Blending mode options in the layers panel.

Photoshop

We’re done ๐Ÿ™‚ hope you learned a lot and enjoyed.

Photoshop

How to Create a Photo Mosaic in Photoshop: The Tiling Process

Hello again, and good to see you.

Welcome back to this fun Photoshop Tutorial.

So in the first part of this tutorial, we went over all the prep for our Photo Mosaic, so of course, in this tutorial, we will be creating it.

So to start we have to open up our PSD file so we can see our image and get to work on it, so do that by double-clicking on it.

Photoshop

Ok so remember I change my image from 3985 pixels to 4000 pixels and lucky enough for me it squared up nicely at 4000px x 6000px.

If this didn’t work out for you don’t worry about it so much, see what we’ll be doing is we will be dividing the image into 20 across and 30 down, that way we will have 20 images across and 30 images down.

Try to get an even number, if not then you will probably just have to create a new doc and place your image in, resize it so it fits, save up the new file and go from there.

So let’s divide 4000 by 20…that gives us 200px Wide.

Now let’s do the same with height.

So let’s divide 6000 by 30…and that gives us 200px High also!

Cool so our images will be nicely squared.

So in part one, I said to gather about 20 images, in reality, you can gather as many as you’d like, you are free to do your own thing within the constraints of what we are trying to achieve here, I’m just going to go with the 10 images I gathered.

Next, we are going to resize each image.

Make a new folder on your desktop and put all your image into it so they’re easily found.

Then go to file new and in width and height type in 200 for each, below that you will see a resolution, so mine says 72 and below that it says RGB, so this would be my setting if my image was to just before web.

If not and it’s for print then I would change 72 to 300 and RGB to CYMK.

I could go into detail here but really details are pointless, all you need to know is that those are the 2 main setting you will use for Web images and Print images and you will basically never ever have to change those unless specifically asked to.

So do all that and click Ok.

Photoshop

Now we’re going to place each of our images into the new file and resize them.

Go to File – Place

Then find your folder and take each individual image and start to add them.

Photoshop

When it appears on your screen you will be able to click the edges and resize, when you do this if you hold on your keyboard Shift and Alt you will be able to resize without distorting the image.

So go ahead an do that now.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Cool now that we have this done we have to start to transfer the images over to the main image.

Now that you have all your images added to your new file go to Select and choose to select all.

Photoshop

Then start to copy each image over one by one, you’ll have to use copy merged to do this because as I go through each I am clicking the little eye icon beside my thumbnails in the layers panel on the right to hide it.

Photoshop

The make sure that you go to View and the Snap has a little tick beside it, this will ensure that when you move your images they will snap in tight to the edges of your main image and photos it is beside.

Photoshop

Now start to add each one in a row until you have all ten down, then if you look to the top left-hand corner just under File you will see Auto select, make sure that’s clicked.

This is going to be very very important because as you go along copying the files you need this option for speed.

Photoshop

Next up we will be making our mosaic in a very manual and practical way.

So, for now, save up your image as is and close down your 200px x 200px file that we created, we will no longer be needing that.

See you in Part 3.

How to Create a Photo Mosaic in Photoshop: Essential Adjustments

Hi all, today for this Photoshop Tutorial I’m going to be doing something a little different, On my YouTube travels I’ve seen a few Tutorial knocking about recently showing you how to create a Photo Mosaic Image, so I figured I would chime in be give you a very simple, very practical and less technical way to do this.

I think all the technical stuff is great but it can be a little overwhelming sometimes, to be honest trying to remember all this stuff, now when I first started out in Photoshop I used to look at the sheer amount of tutorials and lesson and I was thinking how am I EVER going to learn all this.

But what I did have was a think out of the box mentality and once I started to use the Clone Stamp Tool I figured out I could do a lot of what was being done with all these technical ways with just that one Tool.

We are not here to talk about the Clone Stamp Tool but what I’m trying to convey to you is that you can do a lot of what you see being done out there with just basic knowledge of a few basic Tools etc.

The key to getting good at Photoshop is that there is not 1 specific way to do something, there is a whole bunch! I mean a WHOLE BUNCH!! I could do maybe one task 5 different ways to get the exact same result, some may be quicker or whatever but who cares, as long as the result is good that’s all that matter [and as long as you’re not taking forever to do it haha, we still must be rather fast(ish)]

Anyway, enough of my soapboxing and let’s get to it.

Ok.

So the result I want to have is an image of a person, and pretend this person is a client or a friend or whatever, and they have asked me to do them a Photo Mosaic of them with lots of animals, because they work with animals and it’s their first love after ice cream and family.

Anyway, so first we must gather up some images of wildlife.

So where can we get these, well Pixabay is what I always use for my Free Images.

Go there or whatever site you use and gather up say 20 images or a variety of animals.

Oh and by the way, if you want to use cars or computers or anything else you can think of then you are more than welcome, maybe you have a load of images you took on holiday you want to use for your own self-portrait then by all means, whatever you are happy with, just as long as the concept stays the same which is, a face, with lots of pictures over it.

Cool!

So do that for whatever amount of time it will take, I’d say it will take me about 10 minutes to get my 20 images, so gather those now, oh and PS remember to get the main portrait image as well, it’s very important! and now I’m thinking about this, you don’t have to just use a portrait either, you could have your favourite new car and have a million images of you as the mosaic lol, um too weird? haha.

……………………………………………………..10 Minutes later…

Hello again! so you have your images yeah? cool, Ok next step is to create the files in Photoshop.

So this is my image below that I’m going to use below.

Photoshop

I’m going to go to Image – Image size and change the image to a more mathematically friendly number.

Photoshop

So my original image was about 3985, so I’m going to change it to a nice square 4000.

Make sure that when you have your image it is large!

Photoshop

If you have done have an image that will perfectly square up like this then done worry, go to File New.

There you will be able to change the sizes to suit, then it will just be a matter of copying and pasting your image in and sizing it.

Photoshop

The way I would do this for best results is to go to File – Place, then do your resizing that way.

Photoshop

Now go to File Save As and save as a PSD file.

Photoshop

Ok so that’sit for part 1, we have learned all the background stuff we need to know and we have our starter file.

See you in 2.

An Awesome Way to Sharpen Portraits in Photoshop: Emphasis on Details

Welcome to the third and final part of this Photoshop Tutorial. You can check part 1 and part 2 here.

Ok to start, click on that top layer that in the last tutorial we made into white, now this will be temporary as we will need to do the reverse back but I just want to plant the seed is if you hold Ctrl and press I, it will invert your layer to black, that means now the entire layer is hidden, so instead of Black we would use White on the Brush now.

So just give that a go there and then save up and we’re good for this part of the Tutorial.

Photoshop

When you do that Ctrl I control you can flick between White and Black back and forth at any stage.

So now I’m going to zoom into the eyes of both the children in turn.

I’ll also do areas like the mouth as well, so think of the areas on the face that you would like to enhance a little.

So I’m going to grab a brush and change it to White.

Photoshop

Then I’m going to make sure that I have clicked on the little thumbnail that we turned Black and at the top just under Window slightly to the left of the Photoshop Desktop you will see Opacity, I’m going to just drop that down to around 50% for this part, I may change it in the not too near future.

You can do this by just highlighting and typing in the number.

Photoshop

Once I have painted over the areas I can click back into the High Pass Panel by double-clicking on the Word High Pass in the actual layer on the right.

I’ll bring this down to about 5 for mine, but do what feels right for your image and then click Ok because I’m going to show you a way to sharpen using duplicates.

Photoshop

So what this all basically does is it enhances areas of interest but it keeps a fine blur on the skin so that all the little ‘imperfections’ remain slightly hidden as subtly is key when retouching.

So now that we have that done let’s duplicate the layers 2 times.

You may do it more or less again do it till it looks good to you, I know that’s kind of hard to quantify but it is a skill that you must develop over a long period of time if you are a beginner, really it comes from a lot of trial and error and seeing lots and lots of professional images from the pros so eventually you will know what looks good from their example.

But don’t worry, it will come!!

So to Duplicate all you have to do is be clicked on to the layer that we want to duplicate, then go to Layer in the top menu.

Then at the top of the drop-down panel that has just appeared, you will now see ‘Duplicate Layer’

Click on that and you will now see that a new layer has materialised above your chosen layer.

Photoshop

Then just repeat the process a few times over and over till you’re happy, as I said I did this just twice.

So you keep doing this until you feel you have the right amount of sharpening.

What I do personally when I’m going through my workflow is I will make two or three of these, then if you look on your layers, to the right on the actually layers you will see a little eye icon when you click this you will turn that layers visibility on and off.

Then you can start to bring up your High Pass Panel and do further tweaks as you go along.

So you can see how much control over the sharpening Photoshop gives you, it really is great.

Photoshop

Photoshop

The last thing that I want to discuss that we touched upon in the first part was to make sure to do all your sharpening at the very end of all your work, but one thing that I forgot to mention is that when you go to do your sharpening, also make sure that you have your image the exact output size is.

So if you are doing an image that 800 x 800 Pixels for web make sure it is that before you sharpen, same goes for print!

Hope you learned a lot and put this into action with success in the future.

Photoshop

An Awesome Way to Sharpen Portraits in Photoshop: High Pass

Ok, nice to see you back, let’s begin, so we left off were we had done a High Pass Sharpen, which Sharpened everything at once.

This is good and you could get away with it but we can take it further and have it looking just that little bit better, and if you can squeeze a few more percent out of a technique then why not, especially if we have the time to do it.

Right so what I’m going to do now is create a Layer Mask for that High Pass Layer.

To do this you need to go to the little menu at the top of your screen and find Layer, click into that and look down till you find Layer Mask, click that and then click Reveal All.

Photoshop

When you do that you will see a little white thumbnail box appear beside the layer, you will see it in the image below on the right hand side, you will see 3 little boxes, two white and one grey, well ignore the bottom box and click on the one directly beside the little grey one.

This is important you have that clicked.

Photoshop

So now go over and grab your Brush Tool, make sure that the Brush is on Black, if you don’t know how to do this look down the left-hand side of your screen till you nearly reach the bottom, you will see two boxes overlapping, they could be black or white doesn’t matter right now as I want you to actively do this anyway.

So with those little boxes you will see an icon that represents those to the top left of them, click that, then to the right theres a small double arrow, click that so that black is on top.

Another way to do this is to just double click on the little boxes and choose your colour from there, so whatever you like best do that.

Photoshop

Now you are able to paint using that Brush Tool directly on to your image to hide the layer that the mask is attached to.

Do Black will hide.

White will bring back.

So for this I want to have the sharpening detail in the children clothing and hair, but I want to get rid of it on the background and skin.

You can do this now and while you do this check out the bracket keys on your keyboard as they will change the size of the brush, you can also zoom in using the plus and minus keys on your keyboard while holding control AND! if you hold the spacebar you will be able to click and drag your way around the image freely as you work.

Photoshop

At this stage if you want you can go back into your High Pass Layer and increase or decrease the pixel amount, you can do this by clicking on the word High Pass that you can see in your layer at the bottom, you’ll see a little eye icon beside it.

But bear in mind you will have to tidy up the edges of your mask!

Photoshop

Ok now that that’s done what I want to do now is to duplicate the layer, the way to do this is to click it and drag it down to the little icon beside [to the left] of the recycling bin icon, then release.

The icon you are looking for looks like a square with a little fold at the bottom left, you can see it below on the bottom right hand side of the image in the layers panel.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Now on the new layer, click on the box that contains the layer mask thumbnail, you’ll see it there with the black paint on it.

Hold Shift on your keyboard and then key in delete.

This will bring up a Fill options box.

Where it says contents click on the drop down box that says Foreground Colour.

Photoshop

Then go to the bottom and click on White and click Ok

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Cool, save up and this will do us for now, in the third an final part we will complete this tutorial and you will be on your way to awesomely sharpened images.

Part 3 An Awesome Way to Sharpen Portraits in Photoshop: Emphasis on Details

An Awesome Way to Sharpen Portraits in Photoshop: Working with Layers

Hello!

Today in this Photoshop Tutorial I’m going to be showing you an AWESOME way to sharpen up your portraits.

So when you all out there are taking photos and you get all your edits complete, which is very important you do first btw as Sharpening should be the last thing you do, sometimes you’ll notice that you may have a little less detail on the final result that you may have wanted, this can happen with even the best equipment so don’t sweat it.

This is where we turn to Photoshop to finish up the job for us.

Oh isn’t Photoshop great!

So let’s look at the Portrait that I’m going to go with today below.

Photoshop

So cool picture of at Brother and a Sister, there’s loads in here that we can work with.

When it comes to sharpening we can do it so that it sharpens the entire image at once, but with the techniques that I’m going to show you, you can pick out individual areas to sharpen which makes it so much more effective, this technique will really add a whole new dimension of awesomeness to your images trust me!

right let’s get to it, so what I need you to do first just in case you don’t have it on your screen like I have atm, is to go to Window – Layers.

Or press F7 on your keyboard to activate them.

Either way is good so whatever you prefer or remember best.

Eventually, hopefully, you’ll remember both with time.

Photoshop

Ok now we have to create a new layer so look along the top of your screen and go to Layer-New – Layer.

Photoshop

And you will see that now appear on the right-hand side in the layers panel.

Photoshop

Once you see that then look along the top again look for ‘Image’, click on that and find ‘Apply Image…’

Photoshop

Once you see the panel appear change were it says Layer to Merged as it may not be already, but you may have that sorted automatically already so all good.

Photoshop

Then look below that to your see ‘Blending’, it will say Multiply, click on that and look at the top of the list where it says ‘Normal’ and click that, click all the OK’s you see as you go along and you’re ready to go.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Cool, now we’re going to desaturate the image.

To do this you need to go to Image – Adjustments – Desaturate

This will turn your image into a black and white copy, that’s the new you created which we are going to put the sharpening into, we still have the layer at the very start ‘the original’ safe at the bottom of the stacking.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Ok cool now we need to change our layer to a Smart Object, this is really easy to do, all you have to do is go to the layer and click it, it will now be highlighted the right click on it using your mouse, a big panel appear, check for Convert to Smart Object and click on it.

Photoshop

Now, remember we did that thing with the blend mode earlier?? well, the layers panel has something very similar, in fact, it’s the main blending mode option that you will be using in general, so look on the layers panel till you see the drop down box with ‘Normal’ written on it, click on that and look down till you see Overlay.

Photoshop

You will now see the image change from Black and White to a strange version of your colored image.

Photoshop

Next, we have to add the High Pass option to this layer.

We do that by going to Filter – Other – High Pass

Photoshop

When you click that you will see an option box appear, you will see the zoom buttons to zoom out a little so you can see what High Pass is doing.

Then look at the slider at the bottom called Radius.

Slide it up and down and look at your image, you will see it change slightly, pay particular attention to different areas on your models etc, you will see some become sharper than others like the face to the T-Shirts.

Photoshop

Ok, so when you have explored that a little change your radius to 6 to start off with and hit Ok.

Then you can save up and I’ll see you in Part 2. An Awesome Way to Sharpen Portraits in Photoshop: High Pass

Photoshop

Photoshop

How to Create Cinematic Colours in you Images in Photoshop: The Film Strip

Welcome back to Part two of our Photoshop Tutorial, so as a summary lets go over what we have done so far as a refresh.

So, so far we have got our image and duplicated it, then we added a solid colour and changed the Blending Mode to Exclusion before we played around with the colour after we dropped the opacity on that solid colour layer.

Now!

Next up…

I just want to talk about the colours that we chose, so just a little bit of colour theory here that I follow myself, so you can essentially use any colour that you want to use yourself, but a little rule that I use is Blue and Greens equals cool and Red and Yellow equals warm, so depending on your image you may choose according to the dominant colour on your image or the dominant theme/theme you are going for…

So think about it this way, if your image was a beach scene you would probably choose a nice yellow-based colour to increase the warmth and so forth unless you were going for a specific look which I am going for in this tutorial which is the cinematic look, which uses a lot of blues to cool the subjects down.

Ok so on with the tutorial, next I want you to create another duplicate of your image and change the Blend Mode to Overlay this time.

Photoshop

Photoshop

Photoshop

Next we will go to Filter – Other – High Pass

What this will do is to add a little bit of sharpening to the image.

Photoshop

Choose a Radius of 5, I think that should do the image nicely, then press Ok.

Photoshop

You can also drop the opacity on that layer to about 50% if it’s too much or until it looks good. I’ll stick to 50% as I’m pretty happy with that.

Next I’m just going to add a little bit of Vibrance to the image, so I go to Layer – New Adjustment Layer – Vibrance

Photoshop

When the panel appears I go straight to the saturation slider and move it to the right, for me I was happy with +50 you may find better results elsewhere.

Photoshop

Then I want to create a Gradient Layer, you’ll find that in Layer – New Fill Layer – Gradient

Photoshop

Click Ok and you will see a panel appear, first thing that you want to do is to change the setting to Radial.

Photoshop

Then click reverse.

Photoshop

Next thing you want to do is to choose the gradient with half it’s opacity to zero, it should be the second one across, you may also need to change the colour side to black.

You do that by double-clicking on the Gradient Bar, then when the panel appears you’ll see another Gradient bar with 4 little tabs at the edges both top and bottom.

Make sure the tabs on the left are Black.

So again you double click on these and change them to Black and press Ok.

Photoshop

Then at the bottom of the panel, you will see Scale, click on it and use the slider to get to the point where your gradient is just creeping in at the edges and press Ok.

Photoshop

Make sure this layer is at the top of your layer stack, if it’s not, just click and drag it to the top, easy as!

Photoshop

Next we’re just going to play around a little bit with the Exposure, you will find it where you have been getting the ‘New Adjustment Layers’

Photoshop

The only two here I am concerned with is the Offset and Gamma, I’m just going to nudge them to the right just a little bit and leave it at that.

I want a kind of faded effect with the exposure.

Photoshop

At this point, if you wish you can go back into your Adjustment Layers and play around if you are not 100% happy with your results so far

Now create a new layer on top of everything.

And using your selection Tool just create a little rectangle right at the top.

Photoshop

Next grab a Brush with Black and paint in that.

Photoshop

You can Deselect in the Select drop down box.

Photoshop

Then just duplicate that layer and move it to the bottom using your mouse to click and drag on it.

Photoshop

Again if you want to adjust some of the settings you can do so.

Photoshop

And that’s it, we’re done ๐Ÿ™‚

Photoshop

How to Create Cinematic Colours in your Images in Photoshop: The Effect

Hi all, welcome to this Photoshop Tutorial, and today we’re going to be looking at how to create a cool cinematic look in our images.

So get settled and pic an nice image that you would like to try this on, either one of your own or something you picked up on the net somewhere.

This is the images that I will be using for today.

Photoshop

The first thing that I like to do is to create a Duplicate Layer, so go to Layer, Duplicate Layer.

I do this as standard every single time, I like to do it even if the end result doesn’t require it, reason being is because of 1. it’s a good habit to do and 2. you never know what you will do with the image in the future especially if you are like me and keep a record of all your PSD’s in case of future need.

Photoshop

Now I want to make sure that the dog is in the center of my image, so where you see the measurements at the top and at the side of your image, so what you do is click on that and drag it down to roughly the center of your image, you should feel a little snap happens when you reach the center and it should automatically place the line in the center of the image.

Photoshop

Do the same with the side as well.

Photoshop

If your image is not centered grab the Crop Tool by pressing (C) on your keyboard and adjust and if you do not feel the Snap automatically placing your measurement in the middle go to View and then down to Snap, clicking on it to activate it.

Photoshop

OK so once that’s all good if it’s an option that you wanted to choose you can simply remove the measurement lines by clicking on them and doing the reverse of what you just did, so drag them to the rulers on the top and side and release, that will get rid of them.

Photoshop

Now we are ready to begin.

Go to Layer-New Fill Layer – Solid Colour

Press OK

Photoshop

Now you should have a full-colour Adjustment Layer, you can choose any color here you want, so I’m going to start off with green in memory of Breaking Bad, a great TV series btw! in case you’ve never seen it.

Well in this they use a green filter throughout the show, so I’ll start with that and see how it pays off.

Photoshop

Once you have chosen your color, press OK and then we’re going to change the Blending Mode.

So if you don’t know what the Blending Mode is you will find it in your Layers Panel, to look to the right hand side where you will see little layers stacked up with thumbnails included, if you don’t have this up go to ‘Window’ at the top bar on the program beside ‘Help’, and look for ‘Layers’ in there.

Ok so, if you are in your layers panel, look for the word ‘Normal’ in a tab, click on that tab and a load of Blending Mode options will appear, scan down the list until you see ‘Exclusion’ and click on that.

Photoshop

Then in the same panel look for ‘Opacity’ and reduce it to about 20-30%

Photoshop

So if you would like to change the colour, it is easy, all you have to do is to double-click on the little colour thumbnail and the colour panel from before will appear, then you can play around with the colours until you are happy, you do this by clicking in the big center part and you change the actual colour on the side slider.

Photoshop

Once you’re done then all you have to do is click OK and you’re set, remember that you can do this as many times as you wish because this is an ‘Adjustment Layer’, so keep those words in your mind, because this is one of the most important functions of Photoshop, it allows you to do what is called Non-Destructive editing.

Ok, we’re going to leave it here for the minute, so save up by going to File – Save As.

Name it and change the setting to PSD as shown below and remember, see you in Part 2.

Photoshop

Photoshop

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

A Cool Way to Save Underexposed Images with Adobe Photoshop

Hi Y’all! today I’m going to be showing you a cool way to save your underexposed images.

So picture this, you have done a full photo shoot and you’re looking through all your images but the set up was just quite right…oh no! what a disaster.

BUT! wait you have found a few photos that have the perfect positioning and it looks great except for one little tiny detail.

It’s underexposed!

Well you can’t very well phone up the model again or whatever you were doing and take another day out for redo everything, that would just be crazy AND highly expensive and time-consuming to set up, but low and behold good old Photoshop there in the background holds up its hand and says “Hey! did you forget about how amazing I am”

And then you think “YES!!!” I know this really awesome way to save these underexposed images that I learned from this guy that writes Tutorials for that cool site Sleeklens ๐Ÿ™‚

So this is my image I’ll be working with today, and as you can see I’ve messed up pretty bad with the exposure to show you just how good we can make it in the end.

Photoshop

OK, so the first thing that I’m going to be doing is to create a duplicate layer of this image.

I do this by going to Layer – Duplicate Layer

Photoshop

I do this for the purpose of keeping one in the background in case something goes wrong and I need the original, but just as well too I can at the end flip back and forth between the two images to see the differences which are always satisfying to be perfectly honest haha.

OK so what we’ll do now it brightens the image up just a little, and for that, we’re going to use a Curves Adjustment Layer.

Now an Adjustment Layer is different than if you were to go and just use Curves direct from the Image Adjustments Menu.

An Adjustment Layer will become an actual Layer that you will be able to go back on at any time and double click to change the setting, so keep that in mind and make it part of your everyday Photoshop practice to save yourself a whole bunch of a headache in the future.

Go to Layer-New Adjustment Layer-Curves

Photoshop

So you will see the histogram in the middle of the Curves Adjustment Layer that has just appeared on your screen, for me, I had a little bit of matting (Fading) on my image so I had to grab the very bottom of the histogram where the diagonal line meets the bottom where the tiny box is and click and drag it towards the center until I reached where the histogram diagram starts, you may have something similar, if not don’t worry, just click in the center of the graph and drag the horizontal line up and towards the left until your image lightens up so it starts to look pretty good.

Photoshop

Ok so I have a huge difference on my image already but we’re nowhere near done yet, there’s still a few little tricks to be incorporated.

So what has happened here is that when we lightened our image we brought up all the colors which mean our highlights aren’t looking so good!

Right now what we’re going to do here to fix this problem is to use Apply Image.

So look at your Layers Panel, if you do not have this then go to ‘Window’

Then scan down the list and you will see Layers or type F7 for your keyboard shortcut.

Photoshop

Now you will see the little Layers panel on the right-hand side there and in it, you should be able to see the little white box on the Curves Adjustment Layer, click on that little white box.

Photoshop

Then go to Image – Apply Image

Photoshop

This will create a mask on your image, you will be able to see it a little bit on your white thumbnail box now.

If your image reverted back to how it was at the start all you have to do is to click on the little Invert checkbox on the right of the new panel that appeared, click OK and save up and we’ll move on.

Photoshop

I’m going to just briefly talk about what the layer mask is doing here.

So if you hold Alt on your keyboard and then click on the Thumbnail on our Layers panel for the Curves Adjustment Layer it will give you a negative of the image we’re working with.

Photoshop

So in a Layer mask, the Light areas are visible and the Black areas are invisible, so when you choose your Brush Tool and start to paint Black on your image it will start to hide the areas that you have painted black on to, and then of course white will do the opposite revealing what was hidden.

It works just the same as using the paint Brush for just paint with layers and the opacities etc, the basics are the same.

So what we have done here is we have made the lighter areas of our image invisible and the darker areas visible.

What we are looking to do it to take those dark areas and make them brighter but not to disturb the lighter areas which end up blown out and look horrible.

Ok so now we know that, you can click on the little circle icon beside your thumbnail to turn of the current negative view on your screen, then you can click on the little Eye Icon beside that to see what the difference is between the original and what the Curves Adjustment Layer has done, by clicking that little Eye Icon you can flip back and forth.

So if you zoom in on the image to the Highlighted Area and flip back and forth you will see that the mask has only affected the dark areas bringing them to life, and the Highlights combined with that are looking sweet!

Photoshop

Photoshop

Ok, so the next thing that we’re going to be doing here is to play with the saturation a little bit to try to add in a little bit more color, because when an image has been underexposed it will have a lot of the color drained out of it as well as being darkened.

So grab yourself a Hue and Saturation Adjustment Layer, remember where you find it right?

Photoshop

When you click that, you will now see a panel appear on the right-hand side, in there you’ll see the three sliders and the one out of those that we want to use is the Saturation Slider in the middle.

Photoshop

Click the little tab and drag it to the right till you reach about 20, you can also just type 20 into the box, when you do this you will notice that colour return to your image but again just like when we did the original Curves Adjustment Layer it has changed the whole image overall, we don’t want this.

Photoshop

So what we are going to do is to make a copy of the layer that we created for the Curves one and transfer it to out new saturation layer, this is very easy to achieve.

All you have to do is hold alt and then click on the mask layer thumbnail that you have for the Curves Layer and drag it up to the new saturation Layer Thumbnail.

Then release, when you do this you’ll be prompted with a pop-up box asking you if you want to replace the layer mask, you click Yes!

Photoshop

Now you will see that your new mask has been applied successfully.

What this will do is it will leave all those highlighted areas alone and only concentrate on the dark’s which tend to be desaturated.

Now you may only see a subtle effect for now or it might have gotten it right away, but remember that these layers are Adjustment Layers, so if you feel the colour is too strong then you can go back in there and change the saturation, so you can either add more colour which would be to slide your slider to the right or less sliding it to the left.

Photoshop

So check out the huge difference that these few simple techniques have done.

We have gone from a very washed out looking picture to a nicely exposed image with nice colors.

Before

Photoshop

SaveSave

SaveSave

How to change White to any Colour using Photoshop

Hi all got a quick one today and an easy one but a useful one to all those clothes sellers/designers, say you want to see clothes option in different colors, but you haven’t yet had them made, you just have that one prototype in white.

Well! this is where good old Photoshop shop steps in with its arms flexed ready to go.

So the picture I have today is the Image below.

Photoshop

Ok so we have this gorgeous white dress to work with, so if you can get anything close then it will work just fine so let’s get on it.

Let’s open up Channels.

If you don’t know where that panel is then you will be able to find it easy enough when you go to the top menu bar and find Window, when you click that scan down until you see Channels, click on that and the panel should appear to the right-hand side.

Photoshop

When the panel appears you will see that there are 4 layers inside there, RGB which stands for Red Green Blue and the separate Red, Green and Blue layers.

Start to click each one individually just to you see what each one does.

Photoshop

What I am looking for here is to see which one our of Red, Green or Blue gives me the best contrast, contrast being best definition between the white and the flesh, so whichever one gives you a really white finish to the clothes and has the darkest skin.

Chances are it will be the blue channels but this may vary depending on your image.

Photoshop

Once you get that sorted click and drag the layer down to the bottom of the channel layers panel, you will see 4 icons there, you want to hold the layers over the icon that looks like it has a fold over, then you release and it will create a new layer.

So in case you are lost it is the third one over beside the recycling bin.

Photoshop

Next, we will have to sort out the levels so we can have more of a contrast.

Go to Image – Adjustments – Levels

Photoshop

Once in there look at the little graph with the tabs on it, take each in turn and click on the left-hand side one first and drag it in toward the center a little bit about 1/3rd the way in.

Then do the same with the tab on the right-hand side until your image looks kind of similar to mine below.

Photoshop

When that is complete next we’ll create a selection.

The way to create the selection is very simple, hold Ctrl on your keyboard and then click on the little thumbnail in the duplicate layer.

So that’s the little box that has a representation of the image on it.

If you’re really stuck see image below.

Photoshop

Now we are going to do is open up a Hue and Saturation Adjustment Layer.

Go to Layer – New Adjustment Layer – Hue/Saturation

Now you will have to grab your brush tool.

Photoshop

When you do this you will see that there is a menu that appears at the top of the screen on the top left-hand side.

Look for the word normal and click on that drop down box until you see Overlay.

Photoshop

Then make sure you have black for your brush and start to paint over the dark parts of your image, don’t worry about being precise you can be very quick with this, just make sure that you have clicked on the thumbnail in the Hue and Saturation layer.

Once you are done with all the dark’s you can then change your brush to white and do all the white parts in the exact same manner

Photoshop

Once done you can click on your Hue and Saturation layer [you may have to double click]

And then you can start to play with the Hue slider and the Saturation Slider, you can also have a little tamper with the lightness slider but I would advise to probably just leave that one alone.

Photoshop

Photoshop

When you are done and you have created your color you can then go back to the thumbnail, change your brush back to normal and with white start to paint back the background etc leaving the dress alone.

Photoshop

If you find that you have areas that are missing the color or that the color is overlapping you can create little selections to either remove or bring back using out black/white brush technique on the hue and saturation thumbnail.

Photoshop

Photoshop

You should take a little bit more care with the final edits, and when those are done, you will have your color change on the dress.

Hope you enjoyed.

Photoshop

How to pull the best out of your colours without going HDR in Lightroom: Dreamy

Hi

So, our image is looking good so far, but we can still do more, so lets look at what else we can do to make our image look even more awesome and finish up this Lightroom Tutorial!

The first thing in the final edits that I’m going to take a look at is the Contrast and the Exposure, I want to see if I can make any improvements to my image by tampering with these a little bit and see what results we get.

So I’ll go to Exposure first and same way we did with the Whites and Blacks hold Alt and slide the slider until you start to see a few of those pixels start to appear.

Then with Contrast I’m just going to move it back and forward to see what I get out of it if anything, this is going to be more your judgement so just until you are happy with the result.

Lightroom

Next we’ll scroll down and see what we get with Clarity, I would suggest being subtle with Clarity as it could be a little over powering.

Then do the same with Vibrance.

You have to be very subtle with Vibrance, you will see when you use it, it amplifies the colours quite a bit so probably do that to where you you think it looks good then go for a little walk and get a drink of water or whatever and come back to see if your opinions have changed on how the edit looks so far, I would also suggest doing this right at the end, a little break and coming back with fresh eyes can make the world of difference to the final image once done!

Lightroom

Now we’re going to look for HSL, scroll about until you find it in the edit options, once you see it click on it and you will open up a panel full of colour sliders.

In the sliders you will see a sub menu with Hue and Saturation in it, there will also be Luminance and All but we don’t need to worry about the last two just Hue and the Saturation option for this.

So first lets look at Hue, for my image I want particular attention to go into the trees so I’m going to be playing around with the greens.

Remember that while doing this to keep it somewhat realistic, of course a little artistic license can be had.

Lightroom

Then move into Saturation, the colours that I’m going to Saturate (which means I’ll be draining the colour out of them by sliding left) is the Blues and the Yellows.

I want the sky to be faded slightly and the road to give that extra depth between them and the trees, I’m not that concerned with the person.

Lightroom

Next I’m going to look for Noise Reduction.

Ok I’m doing this on purpose by the way, I want you to actively look down the panels for yourself and find these, that way it will go into your head been because YOU have to look for it yourself, just know that they are all in the right Basic Panel area.

In there you want to decrease the sliders sliding them to the left to give a slight haze, this will get rid of any weird grain on your image.

Lightroom

Next scroll up one to Sharpen, go to the bottom of it’s sliders to you see Masking, hold ALT and start to move the slider until you start to see the edges of the image pretty clear, that will sharpen the image up a little without losing any of the haze.

Lightroom

The last thing that I am going to do is to go to Effects and to Post-Crop Vignetting.

I will click on the slider for ‘Amount’ and slide it to the left to add a little bit of dark around the edges of the image in general.

Again with this use your best judgement.

Lightroom

And we’re done, all we have to do now is save the new image.

So go to Library and look to the bottom left until you see the word ‘Export’

Lightroom

A Panel will now appear, you can click on the check box to ‘Put in Sub-folder’ and name it, you will see in my image below I have just named my folder as ‘Image’

Then click ‘Export’ and you will find that folder in which ever location you picked.

Lightroom

And our image is complete, hope you learned a lot ๐Ÿ™‚

Lightroom

How to pull the best out of your colours without going HDR in Lightroom: Part 2

Ok, so we have our image/images loaded up onto our Lightroom, let’s get right into the editing portion of this Tutorial.

For this we should be in Develop so if you are not in there then go up to the menu where it says Library and click on Develop.

When you do this you will see the edit option on the right-hand side, scroll through that until you see the panel that says Basic on the top of it, in there you will see a whole bunch of little sliders and options, might be a little bit confusing with all these options at the minute but you will know these inside out in no time at all.

Lightroom

Next step then is to look for Highlights and Shadows, what we are going to do here I generally do every single time I go to edit an image in Lightroom.

Take the Highlights first and click on the slider, pull the slider all the way left to -100.

When you have this done then click on the Shadows and click on drag it to the opposite side, so you are going to the right-hand side this time all the way to +100.

Lightroom

Next, we are going to work with the Whites and the Blacks

There’s a little trick you can do with the Whites and the Blacks, the trick is to get perfect Whites and Blacks hold Alt.

So take the Whites first, click on the slider and hold ALT on your keyboard, you will see your image go completely Black or close to it.

Slide your slider [this depends on the image as to whether you slide right or left so just try both] until you start to see some of the images appear in the form of white pixels.

You want to have it kind of on a knife edge, so just a few pixels should be showing and you will be fine.

Now do the exact same with the Blacks on the opposite will happen, where there was a Black screen there will now be a White one and the pixels will now be Black.

Lightroom

Next let’s go to Temp and warm our image up a little, my plan here is to add some warmth to the foreground and cools to the background therefore giving the image a little bit of distance.

To do this I both slide the Temp Slider to the right a little keeping in mind that it has to look natural so just a little bit should be fine.

Just below that you will see Tint, do the same for Tint.

Lightroom

Next, I’m going to add a gradient to my image, so just above the slider that we have been playing with you will see 6 little icons the first looks like a grid, so the fourth in from the left you will see a standing rectangle, click on that.

Lightroom

When you do that you will see some options appear, go to exposure and decrease that a little by sliding the slider to the left.

Lightroom

Then click and drag the gradient from the top to the bottom or halfway whichever you want, you basically want to cover the sky background.

Lightroom

Then you can go to your Temp again and add a little bit of blue in there.

Remember that when you are clicked into the gradient that you can reposition it at any time by clicking on the guides at the middle, top, and bottom.

Just a little tip as well, when you create this gradient, go to Shadows in its options and slide its slider all the way to + 100, this will bring back some detail in the trees etc.

Lightroom

Next press (K) on your keyboard to activate the Brush Tool.

We are going to add in a bit more warmth again so certain areas.

So in the sliders option add a little bit of yellow in the Temp (Temperature)

Lightroom

Then scroll down the brush options until you see Flow and Density, decrease these down to about 1 quarter.

Lightroom

Lightroom

So the areas that I’m going to add some color back to is the bridge portion of the image.

And we’re looking good.

We will finish up in Part 3

SaveSave

How to pull the best out of your colours without going HDR in Lightroom

Hi all, welcome to a new Lightroom Tutorial.

In this Tutorial, we will be looking at what we can do in Lightroom to pull the best color depth out of our images without going HDR.

This will work on any style of image, so if it’s portraits, landscapes or whatever you can rely on this process to get you out of a lot of hot water.

Now a little on my thoughts about HDR…

I think as a Photographic method it is awesome when done properly doing actual Photography were you go out there and take all the image yourself the results can look astounding.

Even doing it the artificial way can have some great results but I think that when you do HDR with Plugins and Presets you can get a lot of ghosting and grain, especially when you do it with smaller sized images.

Another thing as well I think, that a while ago it used to look fresh and new but now I think it has maybe run it’s course for a little bit, I see it everywhere on images all over the net.

Unfortunately, because of the ease of Presets, some of the results could be better.

So basically I’m saying that for now, I’ve had it up to here with HDR [and here is if your image me standing in front of you is roughly where my forehead is haha and I’m 6ft 1]

With that being said let us get into learning how to get the most out of colors doing it the old-fashioned manual know how way.

Ok so let’s start by learning how to Import our images just in case you are new to Lightroom.

Adding images to Lightroom is a little different th